Go Back   iRV2 Forums > iRV2.com COMMUNITY FORUMS > Vintage RV's
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 09-20-2015, 08:47 PM   #295
Senior Member
 
Fleetwood Owners Club
Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: FORT WORTH, TEXAS
Posts: 1,108
How thick is your new panel with/ including the frame under it?
What is the work life of the glue?
I know you are going to drill your new holes before you go up with the glue aren't you? So you can take it down and clean the shavings from between the mating surfaces.
Remember the link I sent you on vacuum bagging I would do some more reading on the subject so you will be ready to bond your aluminum to the plywood.
Have you looked at a pneumatic rivet puller?
Amazon.com: Astro PR14 Air Riveter: Home Improvement
You could sell it after you are done. It will save your hands that is a lot of rivets to pull by hand. I think this will work with your rivets but I would double check.
I know I forgot something but that's enough for tonight
Bill
__________________

__________________
2003 Bounder 38N
5.9 Cummins 3000MH Allison Trans.
Towing a 2014 Honda CRV with a Blue Ox tow bar.
WILDEBILL308 is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 09-21-2015, 03:52 AM   #296
Senior Member
 
Piker's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 1,188
Total thickness I'll be riveting through is about 5/16."

I'm going to forgo the vacuum bagging, as that seems more appropriate for situations where you are using an epoxy of some sort. I'll have about 10 minutes to work with the adhesive after it's sprayed. I will only be spraying an 8' section of the aluminum at a time, and one piece of plywood. Once tacked, I will lay the plywood over the aluminum with wooden dowels to position it... then pull the dowels out one at a time, and roll the plywood onto the aluminum. It's a one shot deal. Once the two adhesive surfaces touch, I won't be able to move them.

When the panel goes up onto the rv, there will be no glue involved... just rivets. This is how it was originally constructed. I don't think I'll have to worry about removing chip from between the panel and the insulation... they should all either fall outside the panel, or inside the studs.

-cheers
__________________

__________________
1994 Holiday Rambler Endeavor LE - Engine Rebuilt and Restoration in Process
Piker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-21-2015, 07:25 AM   #297
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Snowbird - Waterford Mi and Citrus Springs Fl.
Posts: 3,475
You'll be using alum. rivets w/alum. mandrels for all the upper surfaces, then self drilling (TEK) screws along the floor line? Alum/alum. rivets aren't too bad to pull, and your framework above the floor line is alum. as well. Thinking bi-metallic corrosion. Metal rivets there may not be a good plan anyway.

Not sure what your plans are, but pop rivets exposed to the weather should have mandrel holes sealed. Only takes a second, and there will be no doubt regarding water intrusion afterward.

Geez, you're getting close. Best of luck!
__________________
1997 37' HR Endeavor, 275hp Cat, Freightliner
03 CR-V Blue Ox, Ready Brake
ahicks is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 09-21-2015, 07:33 AM   #298
Senior Member
 
Piker's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 1,188
Quote:
Originally Posted by ahicks View Post
You'll be using alum. rivets w/alum. mandrels for all the upper surfaces, then self drilling (TEK) screws along the floor line? Alum/alum. rivets aren't too bad to pull, and your framework above the floor line is alum. as well. Thinking bi-metallic corrosion. Metal rivets there may not be a good plan anyway.

Geez, you're getting close. Best of luck!
The original panels used alum/alum rivets along the floor line as well. The fasteners in this area go through the exterior panel, through the hinges for the storage doors, and then into the steel frame.

The original rivets were basically gone along the bottom due to the steel/aluminum issue. Rivets seem like the best choice down there to reattach everything? Maybe not...? Stainless rivets a better choice?

-cheers
__________________
1994 Holiday Rambler Endeavor LE - Engine Rebuilt and Restoration in Process
Piker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-21-2015, 10:14 AM   #299
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Snowbird - Waterford Mi and Citrus Springs Fl.
Posts: 3,475
I can share the fact some of the screws along the floor line of this coach have had to be changed due to rust. The heavy floor line molding they go through starts wobbling a little, and the hinges are not being supported properly. The screws that are removed in the process look more like nails! I've gone with the next size bigger stainless screws at this point (that seem to be working OK), but stainless rivets may not be a bad plan. -Al
__________________
1997 37' HR Endeavor, 275hp Cat, Freightliner
03 CR-V Blue Ox, Ready Brake
ahicks is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 09-21-2015, 05:16 PM   #300
Senior Member
 
Piker's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 1,188
Quote:
Originally Posted by ahicks View Post
I can share the fact some of the screws along the floor line of this coach have had to be changed due to rust. The heavy floor line molding they go through starts wobbling a little, and the hinges are not being supported properly. The screws that are removed in the process look more like nails! I've gone with the next size bigger stainless screws at this point (that seem to be working OK), but stainless rivets may not be a bad plan. -Al
Do the stainless rivets require more "pull" than the aluminum ones? Should I be worried that the stainless rivets would pull so tight as to dimple the panel and sink into the wood?

It looks like stainless rivets are kind of expensive... like $.50 each? I can replace a lot of aluminum rivets for that price...

-cheers
__________________
1994 Holiday Rambler Endeavor LE - Engine Rebuilt and Restoration in Process
Piker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-21-2015, 07:06 PM   #301
Senior Member
 
Fleetwood Owners Club
Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: FORT WORTH, TEXAS
Posts: 1,108
Quote:
Originally Posted by Piker View Post
Total thickness I'll be riveting through is about 5/16."

I'm going to forgo the vacuum bagging, as that seems more appropriate for situations where you are using an epoxy of some sort. I'll have about 10 minutes to work with the adhesive after it's sprayed. I will only be spraying an 8' section of the aluminum at a time, and one piece of plywood. Once tacked, I will lay the plywood over the aluminum with wooden dowels to position it... then pull the dowels out one at a time, and roll the plywood onto the aluminum. It's a one shot deal. Once the two adhesive surfaces touch, I won't be able to move them.

When the panel goes up onto the rv, there will be no glue involved... just rivets. This is how it was originally constructed. I don't think I'll have to worry about removing chip from between the panel and the insulation... they should all either fall outside the panel, or inside the studs.

-cheers
Ok on the bagging. Best practice would be to take the panel down after it is drilled to remove chips and debris from between the panel and framing. I would have run a bead of something like Liquid nails on the framing before putting the panel up. You should be ok. I don't think you need stainless rivets. How long did the original aluminum rivets last?
I think you will be ok especially if you coat the rivets with sealant when you install them.
I still would try to buy, rent or borrow a pneumatic gun to pull the rivets that is a lot of rivets.
Bill
__________________
2003 Bounder 38N
5.9 Cummins 3000MH Allison Trans.
Towing a 2014 Honda CRV with a Blue Ox tow bar.
WILDEBILL308 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-22-2015, 08:41 AM   #302
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Snowbird - Waterford Mi and Citrus Springs Fl.
Posts: 3,475
Stainless no doubt more difficult to pull. I was thinking of using stainless only to prevent corrosion along the floor line where you'll be fastening to the heavier steel framework there. Agree regarding the potential for the stainless rivets to deform the skin if used above that.
__________________
1997 37' HR Endeavor, 275hp Cat, Freightliner
03 CR-V Blue Ox, Ready Brake
ahicks is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 09-22-2015, 09:03 AM   #303
Senior Member
 
Piker's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 1,188
Yep... I think aluminum rivets will be just fine. I'll spin them into polyurethane caulk before installing them.

Benders got back to me and said to find some Toluene for cleaning up my paint gun after spraying the adhesive. I think I've seen that around...

-cheers
__________________
1994 Holiday Rambler Endeavor LE - Engine Rebuilt and Restoration in Process
Piker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-22-2015, 07:03 PM   #304
Senior Member
 
Piker's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 1,188
Plywood is here... Just have to pick up some dowels and I'll have all the materials I need to put the first panel together.

So... I guess... here we go... all the time... all the money... all the heartache... in some ways it all comes down to what happens in the next few days...

-cheers

__________________
1994 Holiday Rambler Endeavor LE - Engine Rebuilt and Restoration in Process
Piker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-23-2015, 07:26 PM   #305
Senior Member
 
Piker's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 1,188
Foam down... aluminum unrolled... taking my time... thinking this whole process through over and over again... hoping not to make any major mistakes...


-cheers



__________________
1994 Holiday Rambler Endeavor LE - Engine Rebuilt and Restoration in Process
Piker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-23-2015, 08:56 PM   #306
Senior Member
 
ronspradley's Avatar


 
Gulf Streamers Club
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Central Texas
Posts: 1,362
Looking good. What is the width of the aluminum? Does it cover all of a side (from top seam to seam on bottom where storage bays start) or does it go up in layers?

ronspradley
__________________
1993 Gulfstream Sun Voyager DP 30'
200 HP Cummins B5.9, 4sp Allison AT542
Toad 1998 Honda CRV, 2006 Honda CRV
Life's too short to drink cheap beer.
ronspradley is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-24-2015, 03:52 AM   #307
Senior Member
 
Piker's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 1,188
Quote:
Originally Posted by ronspradley View Post
Looking good. What is the width of the aluminum? Does it cover all of a side (from top seam to seam on bottom where storage bays start) or does it go up in layers?

ronspradley
48" is as wide as I could find anywhere. From the top of the storage bay to the roof line seam is 80"... so 2 panels per side.

-cheers
__________________
1994 Holiday Rambler Endeavor LE - Engine Rebuilt and Restoration in Process
Piker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-24-2015, 10:49 AM   #308
Junior Member
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Federal Way, WA
Posts: 21
Your hardships and frustrations and despair are noteworthy. As a bystander, I am really excited to see the finished product. You are getting really close. Take your time and it will be done before you know it.
__________________

__________________
wingshot is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Our Communities

Our communities encompass many different hobbies and interests, but each one is built on friendly, intelligent membership.

» More about our Communities

Automotive Communities

Our Automotive communities encompass many different makes and models. From U.S. domestics to European Saloons.

» More about our Automotive Communities

Marine Communities

Our Marine websites focus on Cruising and Sailing Vessels, including forums and the largest cruising Wiki project on the web today.

» More about our Marine Communities


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 07:30 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.