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Old 01-01-2016, 11:52 AM   #393
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That lower one is very hard to find...and not cheap either.
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Old 01-01-2016, 01:49 PM   #394
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That lower one is very hard to find...and not cheap either.
I'm not even sure the tab on the lower one is necessary? You basically have to cover that whole side up with caulk anyways... what would be the difference if I used the one without the tab if you're gonna caulk the whole side anyways?

I found some black stuff on ebay... but it looks pretty thick... and not sure if it will make some of the tight bends that are necessary... and it doesn't really have the same shape, though it would probably work. I guess I can order a couple feet and see?

... always something...

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Old 01-01-2016, 01:58 PM   #395
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Ya... just went ahead and ordered 2 feet of the black... and free samples of the other two white ones. We'll see what we can do with them. We came up with some neat ideas for "stripes" on the rv that the black might actually look pretty neat... we will see.

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Old 01-01-2016, 06:23 PM   #396
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That tab is very important if you need it.

On ours the fiberglass roof overlaps the back cap by just a bit with the aluminum strip with screws.

Due to the overlap the roof is the thickness of the roof higher than the cap thus the lip on one side drops down to seal that area.

So look close at how your trim works as that extra tab can be used say on the top side of a horizontal flush joint to make a tighter top seal or if there is an overlap then it goes on the side that has the lower level.
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Old 01-01-2016, 06:27 PM   #397
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Also please make a new thread with a title specific to vinyl trim vendor and in the thread post the photos of the profiles and the vendor with contact information.

We forgot the name of the place we got ours but do remember they were an OEM source for lots of rv stuff and they sold to general public out of the Gilroy CA area.

That would be a great searchable reference for others searching for the materials you found.
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Old 01-01-2016, 07:06 PM   #398
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Due to the overlap the roof is the thickness of the roof higher than the cap thus the lip on one side drops down to seal that area.

So look close at how your trim works as that extra tab can be used say on the top side of a horizontal flush joint to make a tighter top seal or if there is an overlap then it goes on the side that has the lower level.
You are right... I originally thought that they had caulked up the whole side of that long leg of the trim, but on closer inspection they did not. The longer leg makes so that you only need a very small bead of caulk along the "deep" side of an overlapped seam.

Bummer... I really didn't want the "polar white." Nor did I expect to pay $3-something per foot... But it might be the only choice...?

For anyone interested in where I found this trim... ALL-RITE Custom Manufacturing

EDIT: Also found it at Pacific RV Parts for less $$.

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Old 01-02-2016, 09:28 AM   #399
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That is the place we got ours from.

We needed the part that goes across the top back end cap and looked for years with no luck.

A not so good local place gave us a photocopy of this place catalog and told us they were the magic supplier of odd things and sure enough the hand full of samples sent and purchase made.

They did have a longer ruler...ordered 9 and got 11 ft.

They are a great place...need to stop there if ever in the area. ..
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Old 01-02-2016, 09:31 AM   #400
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Also note it holds paint well.

Our older unit has this stuff down the center of each side as well as along the top edges and it is painted to match...since 1989...

Check for proper prep and paint and you should be able to have it match your body paint.

Paint body first then apply trim and paint trim after.
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Old 01-02-2016, 09:51 AM   #401
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Also note it holds paint well.

Our older unit has this stuff down the center of each side as well as along the top edges and it is painted to match...since 1989...

Check for proper prep and paint and you should be able to have it match your body paint.

Paint body first then apply trim and paint trim after.
This is good to know... I was thinking that paint might be the route I'd have to take with the polar white stuff. There is a drawback though, and that is that it won't be easily removed without damaging the paint. Probably not a big deal though, since I hope to not have to worry about that again with this RV.

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Old 01-02-2016, 10:12 AM   #402
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I replaced most of the vinyl moldings on the 93 HR we had. When we replaced it with our current 97, the messing around, the expense, and the sore fingers from the '93 were still fresh in my mind. So I tried painting some of the problem areas on the 97. That was several years ago (4, 5?), and it's holding up fine. That lesson learned, the only reason I would replace now is if it were too badly damaged or missing.
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Old 01-02-2016, 10:34 AM   #403
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I replaced most of the vinyl moldings on the 93 HR we had. When we replaced it with our current 97, the messing around, the expense, and the sore fingers from the '93 were still fresh in my mind. So I tried painting some of the problem areas on the 97. That was several years ago (4, 5?), and it's holding up fine. That lesson learned, the only reason I would replace now is if it were too badly damaged or missing.
Thanks for the tips...
Question... did you paint over the caulk, or paint the vinyl and then caulk up against it with a matching color? I know you can't use silicone to caulk because paint won't stick to it. I'm partial to polyurethane caulk anyways... I used some on the lower seam on this rv when I first bought it, and it is ridiculously tough stuff. I reckon if I seal the panels up with polyurethane caulk, the seals might outlast the rest of the RV.

Seems like the paint would be more prone to chipping or coming loose over the caulk? If I plan to use a black color for the vinyl, maybe it would be better to paint the vinyl black before caulking, and then use a black caulk up against it? What do you guys think?

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Old 01-02-2016, 10:47 AM   #404
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I suppose a fellow could paint... and then use clear caulk...

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Old 01-02-2016, 06:04 PM   #405
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Seal under the panels where they overlap so no way for seapage.

Then caulk under the aluminum trim with a very thin bead so it will not wick water.

Mask the aluminum then paint.

If caulking was done well the seam is now sealed and vinyl is just to cover the seam.

You can place tape along the aluminum so it will mask the painted area then caulk the screws and attach the vinyl and paint it then remove tape.

Option is to apply vinyl before taping then tape just about 1/16 an inch from it so the paint seeps in to seal it but not sure how it would work.
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Old 01-02-2016, 07:05 PM   #406
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It's probably a good idea to caulk underneath the seams and also the aluminum strips... but I'll probably end up caulking on either side of the vinyl as well. That's how the factory did it... not that everything the factory did was the best way though...

I think I will attempt to do all the painting before caulking. From what I've read, the caulk might hold the paint for quite a while, but it will probably be the first place where the paint starts to crack or peel. It will also be more difficult to fix a seam later on down the road if there was ever a problem.

I went ahead and pulled the trigger this afternoon on another roll of aluminum and 4 more sheets of 1/4" marine plywood. Should all be in this week... No turning back now. I also sent an email to the company that makes the adhesive to see if the 70 degree temp for spraying is required for any length of time after spraying just to cure the glue. If not, it's conceivable that I could get the garage warm enough for a day in order to laminate the panel... so long as it won't hurt anything for the panel to go cold soon thereafter.

I've also got to figure out if I need to fix the transmission computer... but that will be in a different thread.

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