New Exterior Siding

[Harley1994]

Piker, yes I've seen that also where you can have a low voltage while cranking, I had a car brought to me that had been to several other shops for losing the computer memory and what it was, was a bad starter that just pulled to much voltage, the car always started it just took every bit to do it. We also have had Chevy blazers, (s10 models) that had a bulletin where the ignition switch would blacken the contacts and cause all sorts of problems, ironically the biggest was trans problems, it just would not shift up properly, many trans got rebuilt that didn't need it because of the switch. Electrical gremlins can drive you nuts.

[TQ60]

The ign switch should be hot on ign in both start and run.

Check actual switch with voltmeter or ohmmeter.

Check out a replacement as well.

If you suspect low voltage the voltmeter will show it.

[johnhicks]

The way mine works is that when switched ignition-on, the TCM and dash come alive. The shifter pad digits should be steadily illuminated, not blinking (blinking at this point is what my TCM did when it was dying). Also the speedo runs around clockwise and back down and the D-Celerator exhaust brake cycles twice.

At the start position the shift pad digits go out; nothing else does and cranking occurs right away, not hesitating.

Once cranked up the pad digits come back on.

[johnhicks]

Check your battery terminals first.

[miwok]

Remembering my old wiring days, they used to have a ballast resistor in some vehicles for the starting circuit. Check for things in the start and not Run circuit, maybe? And yes slowly turning a switch, an old one, may have contacts far enough apart to not cross circuit these. Just a couple ideas, might help. A solenoid?

[Piker]

Originally Posted by johnhicks

The way mine works is that when switched ignition-on, the TCM and dash come alive. The shifter pad digits should be steadily illuminated, not blinking (blinking at this point is what my TCM did when it was dying). Also the speedo runs around clockwise and back down and the D-Celerator exhaust brake cycles twice.

At the start position the shift pad digits go out; nothing else does and cranking occurs right away, not hesitating.

Once cranked up the pad digits come back on.

Thanks for all the help guys...

John - my tcm does not blink when in the on position. There is definitely a spot on the ignition that is dead somewhere between "on" and "start," but it could be that it's supposed to be that way. I would have thought that the guys at the Allison shop would have noticed that if it was a problem when they saw the 35-00 code, so maybe my ignition switch is ok.

I wonder if it could be the voltage in the "stay alive" wire that is supposed to supply power to the tcm all the time. If there was a voltage drop in that wire which fell below the threshold of what the tcm can handle, that could possibly account for the "power interruption." This would be difficult to check, since once I unplug the tcm to measure voltage at the plug, I can no longer crank the engine. Electrical gremlins indeed! I suppose I could try running a new wire for that terminal, and splicing it in right at the tcm...

When I rebuilt the engine and put it all back together, I was sure to clean all the ground wires for the starting system. I also put new connectors on my battery cables. I will say that my starting battery is very old. It's a small AGM from 2001 or 2002 I think. It has long since outlived every other battery I've ever owned, but it will crank the cummins over all by itself... even though EVERY time I start, I tie in the house batteries, which are two almost brand new AGM's with some ridiculously high cranking amp rating.

At the end of the day... if there is a voltage drop somewhere, maybe it's not hurting anything? The 35-00 code doesn't prevent the tranny from functioning... and as long as the shiftpoint memory is retained, then maybe it's not a big deal? On the other hand...

On a side note... actually... no... on a note that is actually germane to the "siding" thread... I stopped out at the bus painting place yesterday afternoon. Nice fellow out there... he's going to work me up a quote today sometime. I fully suspect that I will not be able to afford it. But you never know.

-cheers

[Piker]

The quote for the paint job came in this morning... As expected, the price to have someone else paint this is beyond what is feasible for me right now. So... I just keep forging ahead. I'll figure it out... it's what I do.

-cheers

[TQ60]

Check with local training facilities such as junior college or adult schools as there may be a way to donate to participate. ..You pay for materials and provide a victim for them to learn on.

Beauty college for auto paint...

Or locate some retired auto painter who may need some extra money.

Many ways to get creative...

[Piker]

Originally Posted by TQ60

Check with local training facilities such as junior college or adult schools as there may be a way to donate to participate. ..You pay for materials and provide a victim for them to learn on.

Beauty college for auto paint...

Or locate some retired auto painter who may need some extra money.

Many ways to get creative...

Actually... I just called the guy back. Something he said didn't add up when he told me how much paint it was going to take. Turns out he quoted painting both sides of the rv... so he said cut the quote in half. $1100 for all materials and labor, including scuffing up the aluminum, masking, etc. Very reasonable if you ask me, especially considering he has much experience and I have none.

-cheers

[ronspradley]

Piker, you will get this painting thing done to good effect. And since most of the work of a paint job is the prep, including primer, you might be able to do that yourself. And then at that time, make the decision on whether to continue and lay the paint yourself or take it to the bus barn and have them spray the final paint coat. I look at it like the actual laying of paint is the reward f or all of the work done previous. And it has been suggested the paint should be two stage, with paint then clear, then wet sand, then buffing. That is certainly an option, but you can also get good results with single stage and no wet sand or buffing. Looking forward to whatever you decide, as I know you are too. Spring is almost here.

ronspradley

[Piker]

In a fit of compulsive behavior, I ran home from work, hopped into the bus, and drove it out to the bus painters. It will be done Friday. Hope it was the right choice.

Just going to digitally match the existing paint... and hope for the best. If I never get to replacing the other side, I still might be able to paint new stripes and have it all look decent in the end.

-cheers

[DieselTech39]

Originally Posted by Piker

In a fit of compulsive behavior, I ran home from work, hopped into the bus, and drove it out to the bus painters. It will be done Friday. Hope it was the right choice.

Just going to digitally match the existing paint... and hope for the best. If I never get to replacing the other side, I still might be able to paint new stripes and have it all look decent in the end.

-cheers

Great choice Piker!! This way you'll be able to have it ready to go when the weather permits.

[slowmachine]

How exciting! Can't wait to see it on the road.



Mike
2000 Holiday Rambler Endeavor 40PBD
Freghtliner XC, CAT 3126B

[cwk]

Originally Posted by Piker

It will be done Friday. Hope it was the right choice.

Trust your "gut" feelings. You've done a great job so far. You have saved yourself a huge amount of funds by doing so much work yourself. Knowing when to outsource some of the project parts is a valuable skill in itself. I am confident that you made the correct decision.

Enjoy the new paint job. It's going on a great bus. A lot of us will be waiting for pictures!!!