Community Forums

WILDEBILL308 · 05-07-2015, 07:41 PM

Piker when you start back together look at using some foam insulation like this.
GREAT STUFF 16 oz. Big Gap Filler Insulating Foam Sealant-248314 - The Home Depot
I helped a friend put foam sheet insulation in his garage and this is basically all we used to glue it in place. When you are going back up with your siding use some of this to help glue it on. I will help prevent leaks. You might get some of the expanding to add to the original insulation to.
Bill

Piker · 07-12-2015, 06:50 PM

Well, as of this afternoon I am ready to start cataloging the restoration of the exterior of our 1994 HR Endeavor. If any of you have followed our engine rebuild thread in the Cummins section here at IRV2, you know of the trials and tribulations we've been through with this rv over the past year or so... and that a couple months ago we finally got the engine put back together.

The engine rebuild took a lot out of me, as the only way to pay for it was to work insane amounts of overtime over the winter... so when I finished up I figured it was time to take a break from it for a while... and so I did.

Now, with the engine seemingly up and running and in tip top shape, and with several home projects now behind me, including installing a new roof on our garage and stacking many many cords of firewood for next winter, I am now ready to start tinkering with the new siding project.

I'll be honest... I feel just a little bit pessimistic about the whole thing right at the moment. As with everything in life, there is no guarantee of success... and I've got so much invested into this RV at this point, that if my idea for building new side panels fails, my heart will most likely be broken. That said... the view might be worth the climb if the project is a success, and to be fair, my heart's been broken before and the man upstairs has been faithful to put the pieces back together for me. Few things in my life have put a smile on my face as much as hauling out across the landscape in this old diesel wagon with a cargo of happy travelers on board.

So... here we go. Though daunting, the task at hand needs to be broken down into smaller, more manageable tasks. The first task is to get new insulation put back in the walls... stay tuned.

-cheers

Piker · 07-12-2015, 07:37 PM

So I have been thinking for the last couple of months about how I was going to insulate the walls before covering them back up. The fiberglass insulation that was originally used basically turned into a sponge that trapped moisture, so I didn't want to use that method again. I think the insides of the walls will sweat even if you don't have leaks...

I thought I was settled on a DIY closed cell spray foam kit. This seemed like the best solution as far as sealing everything up watertight and removing any possibility of critters burrowing into the walls. The downside was the price... over $600 to do both sides of the RV.

I ended up deciding to go with polystyrene styrofoam board... It's the same stuff they used to build the interior panels of this rv... it's fairly good at not soaking up moisture, it has better insulation value than the fiberglass, and it's inexpensive. It's going to be a little more work than the spray foam... OK a lot more... but at this point, I want to try and be as frugal as I can, even if it means taking a little more time to get insulated.

The aluminum framing of the walls is 1.5" thick. Since there are tons of wires and such run through the frame, I decided to go with 3/4" foam board. The first layer will be glued with great stuff spray foam to the back of the interior wall panel, and placed around the wires. The second layer will fit tight into the aluminum framing over the first layer of foam, and I'll spray Great Stuff into any cracks or voids around the edges.

So far it's going pretty good. The first photo is of one section of wall that has the first layer of foam glued in. I'm not too fussy putting this layer in, as you can see. The Great Stuff foam works great to adhere the foam... just apply a bead of foam on the back of the board and stick it on. You have to squeeze all the air out of the foam by sliding the piece up and down... otherwise it expands out and prevents the second layer from fitting inside the aluminum channel (kind of like an I-beam shape channel)

The second picture is after I had a few pieces of the second layer put in and some Great Stuff filling in some gaps... What I noticed was that some of the foam board wanted to stick out past the aluminum, which would cause the new panels to not lay flat... not a problem... I used a 4" right angle grinder with a sandpaper stripping wheel and a straight edge to take off the high spots, which you see in the last two pictures... Worked great... even if the finish does look a little funky.

-cheers

Piker · 07-12-2015, 07:47 PM

So that's where I'm at after spending an afternoon today figuring this all out. I think it should work well, and should only cost maybe $150 to insulate this side.

I have, in the past, lamented that I ever touched the siding. But I think it was probably the right thing to do anyways... the moisture that was trapped in the walls was not good... and so far I've found 2 wires that were chewed bare by critters. One was a 120v wire... not good... I mean, there are circuit breakers to help prevent fires, but you never know... having the walls off gives me an opportunity to inspect all the wiring.

I'll be a few weeks getting this side insulated I'm sure... after that's done, I might try to build the first exterior panel. It will measure 32 inches tall by 32 feet long. If it works, then I'll proceed to repair the storage bin compartment framing behind the rear wheels on this side of the rv, and then do the bottom panel... which will measure 4 feet tall by 32 feet long.

Wish me luck...

-cheers

WILDEBILL308 · 07-12-2015, 07:49 PM

Good to see you are making progress. It is amazing how well that spray foam acts as a glue and gap filler.
Bill

WILDEBILL308 · 07-12-2015, 07:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Piker

So that's where I'm at after spending an afternoon today figuring this all out. I think it should work well, and should only cost maybe $150 to insulate this side.

I have, in the past, lamented that I ever touched the siding. But I think it was probably the right thing to do anyways... the moisture that was trapped in the walls was not good... and so far I've found 2 wires that were chewed bare by critters. One was a 120v wire... not good... I mean, there are circuit breakers to help prevent fires, but you never know... having the walls off gives me an opportunity to inspect all the wiring.

I'll be a few weeks getting this side insulated I'm sure... after that's done, I might try to build the first exterior panel. It will measure 32 inches tall by 32 feet long. If it works, then I'll proceed to repair the storage bin compartment framing behind the rear wheels on this side of the rv, and then do the bottom panel... which will measure 4 feet tall by 32 feet long.

Wish me luck...

-cheers

I recommend going back and reviewing what I posted about using vacuum bagging to apply pressure when bonding.
You will have this wrapped up in no time.
Bill

sam-3 · 07-12-2015, 08:02 PM

Please allow me to share some details of our water dammage rebuild. We consulted with our RV dealer and a place that does nothing but HiLo repairs.Some of the walls were so soggy that we had to rip them back to the fiberglass. Used 3M bondo on the interior side of the fiberglass. It provided a hard water tight seal. You need an industrial respirator when applying. This is a two part epoxy. Expanding foam was used to fill up any gaps and shaved off for flatness as needed with a multi tool blade. Our wall consisted of three layers.1/8th luan,insulation sheets then 1/8th Georgia Pacific paneling. We used heavy duty liquid nails between all layers. Cheapest at Walmart. Use very generous amts. Treat any rusty metal with Rust Oleum. It has been five yrs since our restoration and we have been dry. Just saying what worked for us.

Piker · 07-12-2015, 08:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WILDEBILL308

I recommend going back and reviewing what I posted about using vacuum bagging to apply pressure when bonding.
You will have this wrapped up in no time.
Bill

I will definitetly check into that. I don't know if having this "wrapped up in no time" is going to be realistic... but I'll just keep moving forward as I have time and funds. Also, knowing what was under the siding on this side of the RV... I'd really like to fix the other side too... Not sure if that's realistic either though.

One day at a time...

-cheers

DieselTech39 · 07-12-2015, 08:18 PM

Hey Piker, Glad to see you're back at it. Just a thought on the exterior siding: when I built my 32' enclosed FW trailer I used panels like these. They would be much easier to handle. While rivets may not be what you want to use they do make leak proof blind rivets (example).

Best of luck on your moving forward.

ronspradley · 07-12-2015, 08:42 PM

Great to see you back at it, Piker. Followed your 5.9 rebuild all the way thru to your successful end result. I fully expect the same end result here.

I have delam on the sides of my old MH also but I am just re-sealing windows and painting where paint is now, not painting gel coat. It is what it is, at this time I do not think my 70 year old body will try and replace the old siding like you are doing. But, like you, one day at a time.

ronspradley

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Pabell90 · 07-12-2015, 08:54 PM

Piker,

So glad to see that you've started back on your coach, sometimes we have to put our priorities in order for a project like this. It's hard to find time (and funding) in our busy lives for the extra things.

Thanks for the encouragement you gave me when I started my project. I didn't research to realize that you had posted so much of what you have already done. I look forward to going back and reading the whole post. I will be following along.

My expertise is not in rebuilding MH's but I have had a lot of construction and fabrication experience. My Father was in the flooring business all of my early years and I did a considerate about of the installation at an early age due to my Dad being seriously injured in an automobile accident.

I have no doubt that you will do a great job completing this project and I know your labor will greatly be appreciated by all that get to admire and enjoy your hard work.

Look forward to following along - If I see I can help with any suggestions Ill be glad to chime in - If not know Ill be following along hoping only for the best.

This ain't much of a hill for a mountain climber like you.

Thanks for the encouragement you gave to me, hope this helps encourage you.

Thanks and have a blessed day - pabell

guardrail53 · 07-12-2015, 11:42 PM

Piker, glad to see you back at it! One thing to suggest, when you do the bottom of the walls, to include a piece of alum. on the bottom, to keep the mice and other small critters from chewing there way in! You found that they had done that, so putting a stop to their way in now, will be easy, while you have it tore apart! Going back with the two pieces of siding, as the way HR did when they built it is the best way to go, IMO! When you are done, it will be so much stronger, and way more insulated than it was when stock! And the suction cup's that the glass installers use, will be the way to hang the siding, and may be found at the rental stores, worth a call, to see if anyone rents them!
Piker, we all know you can do this, and we support you all the way!

Rail!

Dtwallace · 07-13-2015, 09:32 AM

So glad to you're back at it.

Daveinet · 07-13-2015, 11:26 AM

Surprised you didn't go with urethane rigid foam (pink sheets). It tends to be more stable, as well as highly water resistant. Because it is rigid, if glued to the interior wall, it will add stiffness tot he wall.