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Old 04-15-2018, 09:42 AM   #1
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New gal here. 84 Terry. Switch box is 240v

Hi everyone. Due to life circumstance just acquired an old 28ft travel trailer for home. Nice cond. But old owner had it wired to her elect panel and my switch box in RV is wired for 240. That explains why it kept throwing off my GFCI outlet at big house. While getting bid from electrician he noticed my RV switch box was like that. He tried to show me on pics how to put it back to 120. Does this make sense to anyone?
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Old 04-15-2018, 10:01 AM   #2
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The photos and red markings don't make a lot of sense, but then I don't see the total set up. The black wires at the bottom look pretty disorganized and very unprofessional. You said the previous "owner had it wired to her elect panel and my switch box in RV is wired for 240" So does the trailer now have an RV power cord? Is it 20 amp, 30 amp, or 50 amp? The breakers don't show capacity for over 20 amps. Unless a special GCFI you mentioned tripping in the house, it's most likely rated for only 15 amps.

I don't know your circumstances, but I'd strongly suggest a proper electrician re-wire the panel properly. If your trailer has an air conditioner or any electrical needs besides lighting, it's not really adequately wired for those power requirements.
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Old 04-15-2018, 10:08 AM   #3
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Posted over on your "Hi" post and asked what in your rig used 240 volts. I'm guessing nothing uses 240 volts but the rig is wired with one leg to the main power and the second to the second air con so both can run at once? Not real common to do that.
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Old 04-15-2018, 10:28 AM   #4
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The very best advice I think anyone can give you here, is to actually get a licensed electrician, and one who is familiar with RV and travel-trailer house wiring. The is nothing in a typical RV or trailer that uses 240 volts AC. Water heaters, clothes dryers, furnace, etc. all use 120 V from either L1 or L2; those are the names of the 2 "hot" feeds from the electric company. The neutral is equally important, and it also carries the load from anything powered on either L1 & L2.

If your trailer connections are not wired correctly, you may fry everything in the trailer by applying 240 v. That could happen, for instance, if the neutral was not connected. And the electrician should know that RV shore power receptacles are not wired the same way as 30A household dryer receptacles.

Get it cone right, please.
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Old 04-15-2018, 10:39 AM   #5
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My rig is not "typical" in that my dryer is a 240 volt unit. Running it alone draws 30 amps.
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Old 04-15-2018, 11:07 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr_D View Post
My rig is not "typical" in that my dryer is a 240 volt unit. Running it alone draws 30 amps.
But I bet you have a 50 amp system that allows you to have both 'hot' sides connected for your 240 v dryer. I don't think a 28' 1984 TT was wired for 240 v. My only guess is that the PO might have replaced the RV water heater for a small apartment water heater that uses 240 v. Again, this would have to be verified instead of speculating and I still would want an electrician to check out the panel and any other electrical modifications made before I'd sleep in it!
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