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Old 08-21-2011, 02:03 AM   #1
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New master cylinder!!NO BRAKES

I just installed new master cylinder 1982 33ft Holiday rambler chevy chassis. I did not bench bleed and now Im up the creek without a paddle, the rear bleeders are impossible to get to without removing wheels so can anyone solve this riddle for me. The last two wheels are drum brakes that Im able to get the bleeder loose at, can or will this bleeder remove the air from the disc brake line in front of it?? Also there is a part (Picture below) with a bleeder on it, how can this help? The item in the first picture does not even work, is that because the brakes dont work?
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Old 08-21-2011, 04:33 AM   #2
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on the rear where room is a issue you will find a true brake bleeding wrench is a 6 point so its useless. i used a a regular i think it was 8 mm with a small pipe to make it longer it worked. look into miti-vac it sped the job up
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Old 08-21-2011, 08:02 AM   #3
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The first photo is a Kelsey-Hayes hydraulic-over-electric trailer brake controller. It won't work until you get the master cylinder bled and creating hydraulic system pressure when you depress the pedal. You might even have to bleed the line going to the brake controller pressure sensor to get the air out of it just as you will each wheel.

If you didn't get the master cylinder working before installation, you may need to break the remote lines at the master cylinder and get the master cylinder functioning before you can push any fluid out to the wheel cylinders/calipers - unless you have a vacuum (or pressure) bleeder, of course.

Once you get the master cylinder working, reconnect the brake lines to the wheels and start bleeding at the wheel farthest from the master cylinder, then work your way back toward the master cylinder. Don't let the master cylinder reservoir go empty, or you'll have to start all over.

A glass jar with some brake fluid in it and a clear plastic line from the bleeder valve to the bottom of the jar will help you determine when you have all the air out of the line without the risk of sucking air back into the line when the brake pedal is released if you don't get the bleeder valve closed.

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Old 08-21-2011, 10:33 AM   #4
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Aren't your last two wheels on a tag axle? If so that is a whole separate system from the disc brakes. Look under the entry step and you should see the tag axle brake system with a large vacuum cylinder. This link may not be a lot of help but it gives the basic diagram of the system.

http://www.morryde.com/downloads/tec...s%20Manual.pdf

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Old 08-21-2011, 11:15 AM   #5
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earl's performance plumbing offers bleeders called solo bleeders you remove yours and permanently install these,when you need to bleed your brakes you loosen the bleeder it has a spring loaded check valve in it and as you pump the brakes it bleeds them automatically.
when done tighten them up and you are done,second best will be to buy a mity-vac hand vacuum pump,buy the plastic one it will last much longer then the metal model,have owned both and still using the plastic one.
but you will need to bleed each wheel individually starting wit the farthest one working closer,this is on the chassis set up , on the tag axle i would follow the previous advice from one's who posted earlier they know that system much better then me
good luck
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Old 08-21-2011, 01:21 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pwf16129 View Post
earl's performance plumbing offers bleeders called solo bleeders you remove yours and permanently install these,when you need to bleed your brakes you loosen the bleeder it has a spring loaded check valve in it and as you pump the brakes it bleeds them automatically.
when done tighten them up and you are done,second best will be to buy a mity-vac hand vacuum pump,buy the plastic one it will last much longer then the metal model,have owned both and still using the plastic one.
but you will need to bleed each wheel individually starting wit the farthest one working closer,this is on the chassis set up , on the tag axle i would follow the previous advice from one's who posted earlier they know that system much better then me
good luck
I use speedbleeders for solo bleeding. I have had very good luck with them!! You can order them online and some napa stores will carry their version of them as well. They do just as PWF16129 states. I also totally agree with Rusty...you have to get the master cylinder bled first. Just bleeding the rear ones first will not bleed out the ones in front of them. It makes it easier to bleed as the lines will be air free, but the components themselves will still be air bound. There is no easy answer for getting to those bleeders you are struggling with. If you can't loosen due to corrosion or they break, they should be replaced. I usually try to soak them for a day or two in a good penetrating oil before I resort to replacing the component.
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Old 08-21-2011, 03:10 PM   #7
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Thanks team found the tag axle and removed the far right wheels when the brakes are pumped old brake fluid is coming out of back wheels and new fluid from front wheels so we will pump brakes until new fluid reaches all wheels, we come this far why not do it right. Question! when we finish bleeding the disc brake system, do we have to bleed the tag axle? If so does the fluid go into item Im pointing at in picture?
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Old 08-21-2011, 08:01 PM   #8
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dspowers,
Glad to see your brake repair is coming along well. I am unfamilure with tag axle brake systems so I have been just watching this thread plus researching what little information is out there about them. What I can say, is that you are pointing to a bleeder valve for the tag axle master cylinder. The fluid reservoir is on the opposite end (by the vacuum booster canister). You can see it in your 3rd picture behind the vacuum hose. In Quietwater's photo it is the funnel looking portion with the silver cap. The tag axle system is a seperate brake system (drum brakes) from the P30 Hydroboost system (disc brakes). The Syncronizing Valve in your first picture senses the P30 brake pressure to control the tag axle boostser/master cylinder. A drum brake system typically operates around 300psi while a disc system operates around 1000psi.

Good Luck,
Dave
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Old 08-22-2011, 12:20 AM   #9
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This was a HARD JOB but somebody had to do it and that somebody was ME. GOT BRAKES!! Thanks to help from you guys. Well lets see what my RV wants after our next outing!! I wanted the Convertable, She wanted the RV, thats my story.
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Old 08-22-2011, 09:07 PM   #10
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What type fluid for Tag Axle ? Dot3/ or Hydralic

Quote:
Originally Posted by QuietWater View Post
Aren't your last two wheels on a tag axle? If so that is a whole separate system from the disc brakes. Look under the entry step and you should see the tag axle brake system with a large vacuum cylinder. This link may not be a lot of help but it gives the basic diagram of the system.

http://www.morryde.com/downloads/tec...s%20Manual.pdf

What type fluid goes in this reservoir the top says heavy duty hydralic fluid? what brand do you recommend?
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