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Old 01-10-2014, 09:27 AM   #127
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Last set, the hangers work well for applying the powder and then moving the piece to the oven without disturbing the powder. It is worth the time to use a set of small needle nose vise grips to grab a hold of the hangers as it gives you a nice handle and leverage to pick up move and position the part.

When putting a large part in a small oven a trick is to figure out what rungs the hangers will have to be on without the part touching the sides of the hove, then mark the locations with a small piece of hanger (wrap it around the rake in the right position), so that when you are putting the part in the oven you are less likely to touch the part against the oven wall.

I find one of the hardest parts of powder coating is getting the part from where you apply the powder to inside the oven without touching the powder against something.

Last set of hanger pictures, this should work for your headlight bezels.

For smaller holes you could make the bottom triangle smaller at the base
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Old 01-10-2014, 11:19 AM   #128
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Originally Posted by George Schweikle View Post
Keyair, a wonderful series of posts for your Airstream restoration. Also, it's neat to see another Alfisti that likes motorhomes. I have '76 and '91 Spiders. Do you visit Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums ? I am "Conedriver" there...
Hi George, Yes, I am on the BB. I know you I think you will know me.... and my cars...

My Blue Spider. - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums
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Old 01-11-2014, 09:58 PM   #129
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Oven is working good...
Cleaning cycles on both ovens were run for 2.5 hrs each.
What was interesting was that despite the cleaning cycles hitting almost 1000degF, there seems to be a fan pulling air up thru the door keeping it cool enough to touch on the glass!

Upper oven before:


Upper oven after cleaning cycle:
Note how clean the glass bulb cover at the rh top side!



Started collecting parts for a first test of Semi-Gloss Black powder.

Leveler brackets, one of which I had previously refinished in rustoleum rattle can black.


The ugly one blasted and 2 bumper brackets too.


Black painted bracket getting blasted.




Casting test pieces will be these bodyside badges.
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Old 01-11-2014, 10:19 PM   #130
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Just a warning, trying to remove powder after applied and cured is very hard.
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Old 01-12-2014, 08:14 PM   #131
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Just a warning, trying to remove powder after applied and cured is very hard.
That is a good thing... but good to know!

Just doing some tests today.
Finished blasting all the parts, so we threw them in the oven for a preheat and get a feel for how fast it heats parts.


This is my gun.


So, the Bumper brackets were selected for the test.
Semi-gloss black.
Coated.


Into the oven.


Beginning to flow out.


So, 20 mins at 375.


Temp was close.


Done.


Looking good.
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Old 01-12-2014, 10:44 PM   #132
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Observations.

1) For a piece of that weight (thickness), starting cold, I would think would take about 45 minutes to reach cure temperature and cure the powder in a preheated oven (380 for 10 minutes). What powder are you using that cures at 375 for 20 minutes? If 20 minutes is the cure time it might have to be in the oven even longer than that (longer than 45 minutes), You want the piece at temperature before you start the cure time.

2) The area between the two elongated holes looks like you had about the right coverage, it has flowed out relatively smoothly, about what you would expect from powder, on the area between the elongated hole and the bend up (on the bottom) it looks like the powder was a little thin. You want between 2 and 4 mils of coverage. The powder will take on a texture of felt cloth when the right thickness is reached, if you get thicker the powder will not flow out smoothly.

3) The area around the hanger looks like there is very little powder. This is a Faraday Effect. Did you ground the piece with a ground wire when you applied the powder or use the hanger as your ground? Use a separate ground, not the hanger, and when done, touch up the area where the gound was attached. The other reason this can happen is the voltage was to high on the gun.

When sand blasted did the piece have an even surface profile? If it did and you look at the powder cover piece below, note the appearance of the powder between the holes. It is hard to tell from the picture but that area looks correct in coverage.

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Old 01-13-2014, 12:39 PM   #133
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Good info!
You were correct... I misread(eyes again) the Eastwood instructions. It says preheat and flow out at 450 F, then turn it down to 400 F, curing for 20 mins.

I checked the curing this morning with some MEK on a rag, and it looks good.
These are heavy wall 1/4" bent steel brackets that go behind the bumper and are completely invisible in situ. I just want them to not turn into a rusty mess in a few years, so they are good enough.
However, they do act as learning curve, and before we get into visual stuff, the skillset must improve!

I will admit that I dropped one of the brackets getting it hooked onto the oven rack... so covered with powder, but its not perfect. At closer distances I cannot "aim" as my stereo vision is poor and invariably mis-position things!
Using the upper rack as a hanging point is not good...too low in the oven. I will try to figure something out

It did occur to me though, that there is a plan to mount some spotlamps on the bumper, so I will need to remember to run a separate ground. The brackets are attached with big bolts but flat washers. I am thinking that there is a good chance that the powdercoating will isolate the ground at the attachment point.

More learning today!
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Old 01-13-2014, 03:56 PM   #134
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Keyair, small world. Now, my only suggestion is to do what my Wife did several RV's ago: add a dymo marker label on the dashboard that reads "I Am Not An Alfa Romeo". She has been known to tap this vigorously if my driving gets too frisky.

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Hi George, Yes, I am on the BB. I know you I think you will know me.... and my cars...

My Blue Spider. - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums
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Old 01-13-2014, 04:24 PM   #135
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keyair View Post
Good info!
You were correct... I misread(eyes again) the Eastwood instructions. It says preheat and flow out at 450 F, then turn it down to 400 F, curing for 20 mins.

I checked the curing this morning with some MEK on a rag, and it looks good.
These are heavy wall 1/4" bent steel brackets that go behind the bumper and are completely invisible in situ. I just want them to not turn into a rusty mess in a few years, so they are good enough.
However, they do act as learning curve, and before we get into visual stuff, the skillset must improve!

I will admit that I dropped one of the brackets getting it hooked onto the oven rack... so covered with powder, but its not perfect. At closer distances I cannot "aim" as my stereo vision is poor and invariably mis-position things!
Using the upper rack as a hanging point is not good...too low in the oven. I will try to figure something out

It did occur to me though, that there is a plan to mount some spotlamps on the bumper, so I will need to remember to run a separate ground. The brackets are attached with big bolts but flat washers. I am thinking that there is a good chance that the powdercoating will isolate the ground at the attachment point.

More learning today!
I was referring to grounding while applying the power.

You are correct though powder will act as an insulator and you do need to run an electrical ground for your spot lights. This is also a problem when doing things like alternator brackets. The alternator also needs to be grounded.


The tip of the gun wants to be about 6 inches or more away from he piece being coated.

I would recoat and recure your brackets so that it is completely coated and then you do not have to worry about rust. As it is you have that area where the hanger was that is not coated and that will rust. This is the advantage of the dual power gun as it has the ability to add additional coats by adding more voltage. You can add up to 6 coats with a gun like that
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Old 01-13-2014, 07:38 PM   #136
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Keyair, small world. Now, my only suggestion is to do what my Wife did several RV's ago: add a dymo marker label on the dashboard that reads "I Am Not An Alfa Romeo". She has been known to tap this vigorously if my driving gets too frisky.
George,
Here is my angle....
Like the wife, and note I mention secondarily... the Alfa... if it was boring and "Cookie Cutter" it would be as boring as a Toyota.

Live, love and drive like there is no tomorrow... because that might be true!
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Old 01-16-2014, 12:03 AM   #137
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So more experimentation today.
We are still learning. My buddy, Jeff is a novice too, and we are working together as he has lots of parts to coat!
If I do the coating (I want to... never been a watcher!) I cant judge the distance so keep getting the big spark jumping across to the part!

We tried a couple of badges today.
Blasted them clean... wiped them down with MEK, and ran them in the oven to outgas at 500 F.




Then wiped them down again with MEK.
Tricky to hold these are!
Ready.


Part coated...


I think I had enough on...


So, we wiped off the raised areas with a foam brush.
Messed up a couple of times, so had to touch up, so it was PLENTY thick!



In the oven!
Flowed out at 450, then left them at 400 for 30 mins... checked several times with the IR thermometer and it was pretty much spot on.


Out and cooled.




Next it was the highlight areas... I had decided before to give that a "Brushed Look".
15 mins with some 220 on a block later...



Clear coat over it all tomorrow is the plan.
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Old 01-16-2014, 08:07 AM   #138
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So more experimentation today.
We are still learning. My buddy, Jeff is a novice too, and we are working together as he has lots of parts to coat!
If I do the coating (I want to... never been a watcher!) I cant judge the distance so keep getting the big spark jumping across to the part!

We tried a couple of badges today.
Blasted them clean... wiped them down with MEK, and ran them in the oven to outgas at 500 F.




Then wiped them down again with MEK.
Tricky to hold these are!
Ready.


Part coated...


I think I had enough on...


So, we wiped off the raised areas with a foam brush.
Messed up a couple of times, so had to touch up, so it was PLENTY thick!



In the oven!
Flowed out at 450, then left them at 400 for 30 mins... checked several times with the IR thermometer and it was pretty much spot on.


Out and cooled.




Next it was the highlight areas... I had decided before to give that a "Brushed Look".
15 mins with some 220 on a block later...



Clear coat over it all tomorrow is the plan.
Thickness looks much better!

3 tips today.

I use a pair of needle nose vise gripps to grab the hanger to move the part around. Gives you a nice handle, much easier than trying to hold on to the hanger with your fingers.

If you are getting a large spark even close, you have the power turned up to High, by a lot.

When removing powder from a highlight area after cure, I use a gasket remover disk in a die grinder to start. You can get a nice high polish with a gentle touch.

Looks like you are getting the hang of it, after awhile you will not paint any more.

VERY NICE
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Old 01-16-2014, 11:37 AM   #139
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Thanks.
All tips are welcome!
The gun is set on #1 setting which I assume is the lowest.

Lets see how the clear goes on later today.
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Old 01-16-2014, 12:26 PM   #140
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Excuse me, I have been following this post for some time now, and I want a set they really turned out nice. you could make a few xtr $$$, JS,
Thanks for the play by play
Tim
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