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Old 01-02-2014, 08:53 AM   #99
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This thread is better than a old movie, I have been following all along. Very interesting. Thanks a ton
Keep on going. buy the way is mine next? LOL
Tim
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Old 01-04-2014, 01:32 AM   #100
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Thanks!

I found some more things I from before that I had not posted here....
Gauge for the front and rear airbags...



Old roof horns did not work beyond making a muted quack...



Maybe I can fix the... lets take them apart!

Not good...



Ready..


Drill out the body rivets...


This side looks ok...ish..


Other side...
Oh dear


After several hours of derusting and fiddling I gave up...

New Horns!


Also picked up 2 remote spot/flood lamps...
One had a damaged motor, and one had a damaged body..
Frankenlamp time..

Looked ugly...


Some TLC later, and working!


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Old 01-04-2014, 01:33 AM   #101
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Also found this early video I took after the first side was stripped and compounded...
Kinda fun!
Click on it to view.

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Old 01-04-2014, 01:43 AM   #102
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Another gem...

All I had left from the original roof antenna...
A bracket, ugly plate and the handle inside...



Time for an upgrade.


In position, just need to complete the wiring.

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Old 01-04-2014, 12:37 PM   #103
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Nice setup!

As you know, these things need some serious air...
We did the air upgrade about a year ago...
The 2.5hp and 20gallon tank just was not man enough.
Moved up to a used Speedaire, 7.5hp with upright 80g tank.
Puts out 25cfm at 175psi!

Here it is being loaded by forklift into my truck... all 700lb of it.



Getting it out at home was tricky... but by using an engine hoist and some care, it was safely removed and installed..



Pretty much in its new home... next to the outgoing Sanborn!
It kicks butt, and is actually not much noisier!



You never responded on what you though about Powder Coat?

Serious air is right.

I started with a 3 HP 10 gal tank Craftsman.

Upgraded to Quincy 5 HP four cylinder compressor, added a second one and a refrigerant air drier. They actually reach a full charge and shut off when I am blasting Total of 10 HP 36 CFM at 90 PSI and 120 gals of tank.

I had to build a bed/skid and slide to get them down the stairs into the basement. I hope I do not have to take them out.

I like this set up because if one dies (and it has) I still can continue to work.

Based on your knowledge you probably know this but drain daily.

I would love to see some pictures of the shop, shops are just as interesting as builds.
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Old 01-04-2014, 01:37 PM   #104
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Again, you have me beat! LOL.

Very nice setup.
Before my eyesight issue, and related job loss, I had access to a multimillion dollar shop. I just was used to having everything I needed at my fingertips for work, and if I needed something and could justify it they bought it.
Working at home when I feel up to it, is tough.

My "Shop" is a 2 car garage... and with 1 car in it... On a KwickLift ramp..


Its slammed for space. I am too embarrassed to show you how it looks right now!

I got as far as prepping and painting the floor one side 2 years ago...



One wall currently has 2 benches, totaling about 15'.
It is functional to a point, but far from ideal.
Once my eyesight is better, and the Alfa is done and gone, I am going to rejig most of it.
I need to setup better work centers, and am planning a "Metal working side" and a "soft work side". Most of it will be on rollers so I can reconfigure at will.
Originally I had just this Snap-On 140amp MuscleMig and Tig machine, which can do a lot... Mig, DC Tig, and has a Spool gun for aluminum Mig.


We added an Eastwood TIG200, and Plasma cutter last year.


I have a terrible need for a Metalworking Lathe and a Mill... but neither the budget or space for it... yet.
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Old 01-04-2014, 01:54 PM   #105
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As far as the Powdercoat goes...

I am struggling with how to tackle these castings...

The headlamp casting is complex.
Its blasted and ready..



Originally, its has a polished face, with black painted reliefs. This is how I refinished it before.



Powdercoating seems to be the best answer, but the devil, as always, is in the detail..
The options that occurred to me are:

1/ Try to copy the original look. Black powdercoat the relief, and repolish the front faces, then clear powdercoat the whole thing... My concern is in the masking, and issues with the clear over polished areas...

2/ Powdercoat the whole casting with clearcoat...

3/ Powdercoat the whole thing with a one color, like this silver..
Hotcoat Powder OEM Wheel Sparkle Silver

Would welcome input...
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Old 01-04-2014, 02:33 PM   #106
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keyair View Post
As far as the Powdercoat goes...

I am struggling with how to tackle these castings...

The headlamp casting is complex.
Its blasted and ready..



Originally, its has a polished face, with black painted reliefs. This is how I refinished it before.



Powdercoating seems to be the best answer, but the devil, as always, is in the detail..
The options that occurred to me are:

1/ Try to copy the original look. Black powdercoat the relief, and repolish the front faces, then clear powdercoat the whole thing... My concern is in the masking, and issues with the clear over polished areas...

2/ Powdercoat the whole casting with clearcoat...

3/ Powdercoat the whole thing with a one color, like this silver..
Hotcoat Powder OEM Wheel Sparkle Silver

Would welcome input...
I'm not trying to beat you, just making the comparison on how the two shops evolved. I also have through the years ended up with a MIG TIG and Plasma cutter (All the blue company).

I also have a two car garage but I took over the basement as well. I hate the steps, must make a 100 trips a day. The steps to the basement are a straight shot from the inside garage door though.

What happened with your eyes, I have been diagnosed with macular degeneration and cataracts, both still in the early stages

I like the original look

This would not be hard to do in powder coat.

I would apply powder to the whole thing (black) and then before curing wipe the black powder of the areas you want to polish (finger tip or a small foam brush, the edge does not have to be line straight as it will melt) (one other comment on powder, it has thickness to it, and will not "hide" imperfections).

One of the nice things about power is you can apply it. If you are not satisfied or bump it or remove some powder you do not want to be removed you just blow the whole thing off and start again.

A little class in powder coat 101. You should heat it though between these steps as the act of blowing air across the piece is much like rubbing a balloon on your head as it gives the piece a static charge. The whole principle behind powder coat is charging the piece and attracting the powder that has the oposite charge. Putting the piece in the oven and letting it cool removes the charge from blowing air across it.

Once you have the black in the area you want coated, cure it.

Then polish the area you want polished, polish not wax as you do not want any chemicals left on the piece.

Then coat it with clear.

Powder is not like paint, you cannot get that smooth of a finish with powder but it is close.

Clear powder does has a slight tint to it, but very clear.

I have clear coated polish aluminum with good success.

Powder Coat chrome is terrible. I have yet to get a good result from that. I have tried many different process and they all end up shiny sliver and disappointing,muddy in appearance. I just did a project to try an reproduce a red anodized look, Supper Chrome base with a Lollypop red top coat which came out great.
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Old 01-04-2014, 04:15 PM   #107
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My humor does not translate into text sometime, so I was not poking you, quite the opposite! Keep the dialog coming!
I love an active discussion with input.

Macular Degeneration is horrible, but can be treated sand maybe slowed..
I had a CRVO(Cental Retinal Vein Occlusion) a few years back, and as a result, I lost the central vision in my right eye... and to make matter worse I now have abnormal blood vessel growth(neovascularisation) in there now. I had a leaking vessel which is still ongoing, causing problems. I need surgery soon, but a bunch of complications have delayed it.
Getting old SUCKS!

Thanks for the input on the castings.
I think I will try soon when my buddy comes over to do some PC on his stuff.
He is going to help me build an oven... I only have the IR lamp for now, and I think this needs more power... its a big chunk of metal!

I have the Eastwood dual voltage gun which will help I think.
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Old 01-04-2014, 05:10 PM   #108
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My humor does not translate into text sometime, so I was not poking you, quite the opposite! Keep the dialog coming!
I love an active discussion with input.

Macular Degeneration is horrible, but can be treated sand maybe slowed..
I had a CRVO(Cental Retinal Vein Occlusion) a few years back, and as a result, I lost the central vision in my right eye... and to make matter worse I now have abnormal blood vessel growth(neovascularisation) in there now. I had a leaking vessel which is still ongoing, causing problems. I need surgery soon, but a bunch of complications have delayed it.
Getting old SUCKS!

Thanks for the input on the castings.
I think I will try soon when my buddy comes over to do some PC on his stuff.
He is going to help me build an oven... I only have the IR lamp for now, and I think this needs more power... its a big chunk of metal!

I have the Eastwood dual voltage gun which will help I think.
I have the very early stages of Macular Degeneration so it is not to bad yet. Eat greens, use sun glasses, etc.

Getting old does suck. my real problem is arthritis, it is everywhere, movement is bad. On codeine for it, I try to ignore it as much as possible, getting up and down is a problem.

PC 101 class two. First a comment, I find Eastwood stuff expensive and not always the best quality. I use their detail gray paint a lot as it looks like bare metal, it is lacquer (dries quick) I use it basically for bolt heads (PC has to much thickness).

The tenancy with variable voltage powder guns is to crank the voltage up. This is incorrect. You use more voltage once you have multiple coats of powder on a piece (more that three).

Less voltage gets you more waste, but better/evener coverage of powder. Also if the voltage is to high or you get to close to the pice with the gun you will get what looks like pock marks in the uncured powder and when cured will not be even.

Think basic electricity, electricity wants to find the easiest way to ground. With powder the shortest path. If you are doing something like the grove in your headlight, with higher voltage the powder wants to go to the closest edge and will not go into the corners. Turn the voltage down and is not as attracted to the edges. Turn it off and it is just like dust. In some cases I find low voltage and the part warm (you would have to tape the part) it is the only way to get into close corners.

I do a lot of powder now and only paint if there is no choice.

There are lots of plans out there for home built ovens, I picked mine up from a reseller of used laboratory equipment. An IF lamp will not give you the results you are looking for, even overall temp maintained for a period of time.

You need to be able to reach 450 with no problem to be able to out gas new metal before powder coat. Most PC cues at 380 to 400 in 10 minutes once the metal is at temperature not the oven.

NIC prismatic color is a great source for powder and they will sell in smaller quantities, but do not like to (I generally buy 10 pound quantities but they will sell one pound quantities)
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Old 01-05-2014, 01:22 PM   #109
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Very interesting read you guys. I'm 58 and the arthritis is so bad in my left hand I have trouble holding a pop bottle. I am lucky I have a neibhor that helps me with alot of my repairs.
I can't wait for your finished Motorhome Pictures.
Thanks for sharing.
Tim
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Old 01-05-2014, 05:33 PM   #110
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Great informative thread, you are some kind of craftsman.
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Old 01-07-2014, 01:15 AM   #111
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All you can do is try!

Ok, so a test yesterday on a valve cover casting that I wanted to "Outgas" ... it was a fail...

All I have is an Eastwood Infra Red curing lamp for larger parts.
Seen here doing some primer curing...


I left it on the valve cover for 20 mins.. up close.
Never reached more than 300deg... I think the mass of the aluminum casting was wicking heat away too fast.
Powder needs closer to 400deg to cure and also it is suggested to run up to 450 to prep the casting and cleanse the pores of junk...

The Headlamp casting are much bigger... so its not gonna work..

I did some research.
Many home powdercoaters use retired home ovens... or many of their parts have been used inside a new home made cabinet...
CL was consulted and a suitable oven was found...
The price was right.... FREE!

Behold... a working Frigidaire Double Electric Oven... both ovens have convection, and broiling elements!


Seems we have some work to do before the castings can be powdercoated...
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Old 01-07-2014, 08:01 AM   #112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keyair View Post
All you can do is try!

Ok, so a test yesterday on a valve cover casting that I wanted to "Outgas" ... it was a fail...

All I have is an Eastwood Infra Red curing lamp for larger parts.
Seen here doing some primer curing...


I left it on the valve cover for 20 mins.. up close.
Never reached more than 300deg... I think the mass of the aluminum casting was wicking heat away too fast.
Powder needs closer to 400deg to cure and also it is suggested to run up to 450 to prep the casting and cleanse the pores of junk...

The Headlamp casting are much bigger... so its not gonna work..

I did some research.
Many home powdercoaters use retired home ovens... or many of their parts have been used inside a new home made cabinet...
CL was consulted and a suitable oven was found...
The price was right.... FREE!

Behold... a working Frigidaire Double Electric Oven... both ovens have convection, and broiling elements!


Seems we have some work to do before the castings can be powdercoated...
Yep, those ovens will work. You will have to be careful when putting the parts in not to bump the parts. Use coat hangers through the screw holes to support the parts. Don't reuse the coat hangers, for some reason once the hanger gets several coats of powder on it the powder will not adhere near the coat hanger.

If you could Frankenstein the oven so that you had one door with one big oven it would work REALLY well. You will only need the bottom element in the bottom oven. You can buy rolls of the door gasket material (I had to replace the gasket on my oven when I got it).

Convention is important. You do not need the broiler, just bake.

You want the parts really clean before going into the oven, do not rely on the heat to clean them.

Your temps. sound right, remember it is once the metal is at temp. If using an IF gun you will get lower temp readings of shinny parts.
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