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Old 08-01-2011, 06:38 PM   #15
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Anyone? Need a roof specialist please.
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Old 08-02-2011, 08:04 PM   #16
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ok. i give up. i will handle it. Hopefully I will have some good before and after pics in a couple of months.
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Old 08-02-2011, 08:26 PM   #17
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I'm no specialist, but before trying any type of painting you will need to remove any loose material so the new "paint" will stick.. You just caught the forum on a slow night..
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Old 08-02-2011, 10:19 PM   #18
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I finally realized I need to stop with the interior and get the rood sealed good, so I ordered some eternabond and Im waiting on it to come in. Please take a look at the roof and let me know your thoughts. It looks like I need to peel off all the different compounds I have painted on the roof out of ignorance, then apply the eternabond. Is that correct?
Correct, you need to scrape all the loose material off your roof. Get rid of everything that comes off with moderate effort- if you really have to work at it, its probably stuck well enough to leave.

This is a great time to replace those vents or fans.

Once scraped, clean with TSP (tri-sodium phosphate, available in the painting section) Rinse, rinse, rinse.

Identify what you will be covering with the Eternabond. Replace any loose, rusty or missing screws with a slightly longer and thicker SS screw. Squeeze a daub of elastomeric caulk (Dicor or C-10 self leveling are excellent) into the hole before replacing the screws. More C-10 to cover screwheads, bumps, grooves or fill cracks in old sealant. Let it cure before covering with tape.

Re-clean the area on which you'll be laying the Eternabond with acetone just before you apply the tape. (If you put the tape in the fridge for 20 minutes first, it will unroll easier).

When you lay the tape, DO NOT STRETCH IT; having it cold will help here. Only pull a few inches to a foot of the clear backing off at a time. Work it over screw heads or bumps with your fingers; do your best to make it contact the surface EVERYWHERE. Roll the tape after laying with a wooden wallpaper roller or small brayer if you can, or at least rub HARD on every part of the tape. The point is to ensure excellent contact with the surface and squish it slightly to open the microcapsules. Trim carefully.

When you have taped and caulked everything, you can coat the entire (still clean) roof with Kool-Seal or Snow-Roof elastomeric roof coating (2 coats in opposite directions; goes on like thick latex paint).
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Old 08-02-2011, 10:33 PM   #19
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Also, please look at the running lights at the roof line. The lens covers are missing and a leak developed at one of them. (See the piece of roof tape I have over it temporarily) WHat is my solution here? Do I remove them and fill it in with something , or try to find lens covers? I dont plan on using them with the trailer lights so that's not an issue. Just dont want it to leak.

The clearance lights will replace easily. Just go to the auto parts store or Amazon and look for a clearance light just slightly larger than the originals (which appear to be plain ovals; not too special).

Remove the screws which hold the fixture in- pull the wiring out carefully (you should have a couple inches of slack in the wire). Clip or remove the existing connectors. If the wire is very short, you might want to crimp on a connector and some spare wire so you have room to work.

Look at your new lights, and connect the 2 wires (it doesn't matter which wire connects to what in 12v lights) with spade connectors or a crimp-on (butt splice) connector. Wire nuts aren't suitable here. Tuck wires back in and slide new lights into place. (check to see if the new lights work at this point)

Drill new holes if required for the new lights. I like to put grey butyl tape behind clearance lights, but you can use the 2-sided Eternabond if you have it. Elastomeric caulk is also ok, but AVOID silicone sealer.

Screw your new lights in place and enjoy!

(on edit; you seem to say you don't want the lights to work?? In that case, I would remove the old one, clean and cover the holes with a small circle of Eternabond, and cover the Eternabond with a stick oval reflector)
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Old 08-03-2011, 07:05 AM   #20
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Thanks guys! Great advice and ideas given! I ordered the eternabond tape and I wi go ahead and order the double sided tape too. Some of the roof compounds Im pulling off show signs that water was getting underneath it.
I was hoping to move quickly on this project (Im eager to see progress!) but the costs are starting to add up, and with some other expenses right now, Im going to have to slow down some.
Lots of work going into the interior right now rebuilding a wall. I am horrible working with wood, but I tell myself at least it will look better than it did before. It may take me a bit, but I will post some pics of the progress once I get a little further along.
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Old 08-03-2011, 01:57 PM   #21
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Good luck! Repairing water damage is a pain, but its shared by many other RV owners, vintage and newer rigs alike.

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Old 08-05-2011, 08:09 AM   #22
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Senior Chief,

I have another question when you have a chance. On the roof, where the roof top meets the side walls, it is held together with screws. Is there anything I should do there to protect those seams from water? Im sure the sealant in the seams is pretty aged. i could loosen the screws and squirt some elasto caulk in there but that will be very difficult to do since the screws are going to be a problem due to age. Is there another solution?
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Old 08-05-2011, 09:13 AM   #23
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Senior Chief,

I have another question when you have a chance. On the roof, where the roof top meets the side walls, it is held together with screws. Is there anything I should do there to protect those seams from water? Im sure the sealant in the seams is pretty aged. i could loosen the screws and squirt some elasto caulk in there but that will be very difficult to do since the screws are going to be a problem due to age. Is there another solution?
The original manufacturer used one of several methods to seal that spot where the side wall meets the roof, but they all probably involved butyl rubber (gray) caulk tape underneath and screws.

Anywhere those screws penetrate the roof, there is a potential leak. Do you have hex head screws or are they flat with a slot?

To do the best job, all the screws should come out; then, whatever cap is there removed; a layer of butyl tape or Eternabond double-sided put down and the cap screwed back in place with new (preferably stainless) screws.

With a good cordless drill and the right bit, the job goes quickly. Even when rusty, those screws are NOT difficult to get out, since most of them don't extend very far into the wood sub-structure and a surprising number of them will be screwed into nothing at all.

Whenever you do replace a screw, squeeze in a dab of elastomeric caulk into & around the hole first to seal the threads.

Just caulking the edges of the old stuff with C-10 or whatever will NOT give you adequate leak protection.

If for some reason you feel that removal of the cap and screws will not be possible, you can cover the entire side seam area in wide (4" or 6", which ever you need) Eternabond. Just like any other application, the surface needs to be scraped of any loose stuff, including rust and cleaned/rinsed /acetoned before applying the Eternabond tape.

The proviso here is that you must be able to cover EVERY lump, bump and screw head with plenty of width of Eternabond so the tape can snuggle down around each screw and still have adequate width to stick tightly along either side with no stretching.

If you plan to paint the roof with Kool-Seal or some other elastomeric roof coating as a last step, you can save a little on cost of the Eternbond by buying the web (paintable) Eternabond tape, instead of the E. tape backed in white vinyl. I think the web tape conforms better to lumpy surfaces as well.
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Old 08-05-2011, 09:37 AM   #24
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Thank you! Hoping to make some progress on it this weekend, but my grass needs cutting which is going to eat up some of my time.And of course, anything my wife e poo wants done. But Im glad she is as excited about camping as me, so I have her support!
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Old 08-05-2011, 01:57 PM   #25
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Old 08-06-2011, 05:15 PM   #26
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Chief,
I have a couple of small holes in the aluminum roof. Can I just use a piece of eternabond tape to seal it? And will it last? I can coat it with Kool seal after I cover the hole.

Also, it looks like I will be able to run a stretch of eternabond along the roof/wall seam. Thats ok to do that right?
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Old 08-07-2011, 06:54 AM   #27
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Affirmative on both; you can also purchase an aluminum-backed Eternabond, if you feel you feel you need more stiffness than the vinyl-backed tape gives you. Sometimes you need flexibility, sometimes not.

Eternabond lasts many,many years IF IF IF...

you do the preparation properly (scrape it, clean it, and use acetone just a few minutes before using the tape-let it evaporate) and

Do not stretch the tape when applying it (chill the tape before using it and remove the minimum of backing plastic- this will help prevent stretching) and

roll or press the tape down HARD as possible to open the microcapsules

And use a tape wide enough for your purposes.
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Old 08-07-2011, 07:21 AM   #28
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Thank you thank you thank you!

Today Im going to try and complete one wall I have rebuilt. Need to install insulation and do the paneling. I will try to get my wife to pull the loose material off the roof to get it ready.
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