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Old 08-16-2013, 07:28 PM   #1
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New motorhome, Fridge wont lite ack!!!!

So I made the jump into a class A and after the 150 miles I drove it I can't be more excited!! It's a 1995 Winnebago Brave with only 50k miles on it after going back and forth with him we got it for 7k Which we think is quite a good price buuuuuuut I made a deal on condition the fridge worked and was cold when we picked it up which it was but was not on. He said he turned it off last night I conserve propane and in the excitement of the kids the wife and myself i neglected to try and turn it on stupid me! So at this point I know that it works on ac but it won't light.
I disconected the propane line behind the shut off valve and I have pressure, disconected it right before the auto valve and I have pressure but there is a bleeder screw after the auto valve which I removed and low and behold no pressure! I cleaned the thermo coupler and the small pin hole orofice in the coupler is clear. But no pressure there either, not that I'm looking for a pat on the back but i think I found my problem did I not? I just want a second, third or 16th opinion before I spend the money on a part that surely can't be returned

THANKS ALL!!!
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Old 08-16-2013, 07:40 PM   #2
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Fridge brand ?
Do you have a manual ?
Have you checked for power to the propane valve , when propane is selected? Good ground to the valve wiring ?
Last time I had an issue ; with a HW tank propane control valve I carried it into an RV shop and they bench tested it N/C. Then sold me the correct part.
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Old 08-16-2013, 09:27 PM   #3
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It's a norcold but I have not found the manual yet, i have tried lighting it manually and have had no luck as well there is just no propane getting past that auto valve , I'm almost thinking of by passing it to see
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Old 08-17-2013, 06:48 AM   #4
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1st test:
Using your volt/ohm meter (ohms mode), disconnect the gas valve wires.. measure resistance across the terminals on the valve itself. What do you get?

2nd test:
Using your volt/ohm meter (DC scale) with the wires still disconnected from the gas valve, clip the leads to the wires, place the refrig in LP mode and see if your control board is even sending any voltage to the valve when attempting to run. You should see between 10-12VDC on those 2 wires when your unit is attempting to run.
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Old 08-17-2013, 09:08 AM   #5
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Many thanks ill check that today
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Old 08-17-2013, 05:11 PM   #6
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Ok I'm not too great with a multi meter but this is the setting I used for resistants pic 1 and the reading was 82.1

This is the setting I used for voltage to test leads and the reading was 27.2

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What do you think?
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Old 08-18-2013, 06:08 AM   #7
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Well, I cant see the display on either pic, but I'll accept your ohm measurement at this point.

I agree with seeing resistance across the gas valve coil and will assume for now the gas valve is ok.

If you notice you're not in the proper scale for 12volt on the 2nd pic. You should set it 2 notches more clockwise to the 20 scale - this will more accurately measure 0-20 volts DC. Remember, most refrigs will attempt to light 3 times. While your meter leads are connected to the supply to the valve you may need someone else to go inside and turn the refrig off then back on OR if you have the unit in AUTO you can simply reach in and unplug the 120 plug from the outlet, which will force the unit to attempt on LP. Set your meter properly and try again.... :-)

We are looking for 12v across those wires when the unit is attempting to start - which will prove the control board is indeed trying to open the gas valve.
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Old 08-18-2013, 06:14 AM   #8
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Does your refer have a display screen? If so is it displaying anything?
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Old 08-18-2013, 06:22 AM   #9
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Pic 1 shows you are on the 200 ohm scale so you are reading 82 ohms. @ 12.5v that would draw about 152ma. The resistance might be correct.

Fig 2 shows you are on the 200 mv scale so you are reading 27mv.

You are not getting 12v to the selonoid. Need to trace that circuit to find out why you are not getting sufficient voltage to activate the selonoid.

Suggest you get a schematic diagram to help troubleshoot. You should be able to locate one using google.

Good luck.

Edit after I sent I noticed you had other good replies that will help. Went for coffee and did not see other posts before I sent. Good luck again.
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Old 08-18-2013, 03:19 PM   #10
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Ok Newmar here we go

I did as you suggested and changed the setting on the multi meter and had my daughter switch to both Auto and gas and I am getting what we want at 12.3v as well as I can hear clicking as its sparking the igniter but still no gas? What do you think back to the auto valve?
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Old 08-18-2013, 03:33 PM   #11
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If you have a lp gas alarm, make sure it is on.
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Old 08-18-2013, 03:35 PM   #12
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Correction no spark but it making a cycling sound like its trying to
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Old 08-18-2013, 03:41 PM   #13
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I have tried manually lighting and it will ignite once but will not again there is no spark and no propane getting to the burner it seems?
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Old 08-23-2013, 03:26 PM   #14
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Does it work on electric but not gas?
Had that problem with ours.
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