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Old 04-16-2012, 12:14 PM   #15
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Can you get the part number for the oil pressure cutoff switch that controls the fuel pump and any other info on it for me.
My brother found a part on e bay. not sure if it is really what I need, it is a PS 151 by Standard Parts it has the D shape plug and the three spade terminals, but on my connector the center term is off set to one side a tad, from the pictures I see of the PS 151 it looks to be centered. I am running the motor now with a jumper in the plug, not good.
Can anyone tell for sure if that is the part I need?
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Old 04-16-2012, 01:46 PM   #16
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(Picture Credit - IRV2 user Subford)

Standard P/N PS151 is an oil pressure switch (the larger canister object above your broken switch connected to the same oil distribution block) , not a Oil Pressure Cut Off switch.

While your inertia switch shows up everywhere, the Oil Pressure Cut off switch does not appear anywhere as far as I can tell. It looks like the oil pressure fuel cutoff switch in your rig only operates as a ON/OFF switch after the engine is started when the engine is running (Ignition in ON position). When ignition key is in START position, the fuel pump relay is bypassed by feeding B+ directly to the fuel pump from the "I" terminal of the Starter Relay. So, all you really need to do is find a regular fuel cutoff switch that has the correct threads to screw into the oil port and then wire it to the Common and Normally Open (NO) contacts (even though you may not be able to use the stock connector). Something like: Airtex 110-OS75 - Airtex Oil Pressure Safety Switches - Overview - SummitRacing.com or P/N OS75 at Autozone




Common to Normally Closed (NC) in aftermarket application is used to provide power to the Fuel Pump when ignition switch is in START position
Common to Normally Open(NO) in aftermarket application is used to provide power to the Fuel Pump when ignition switch is in Run position
Common typically connects to the Fuel pump B+ terminal.
For your rig though, I believe the the Common connects to the Fuse Panel (ignition switch ON) and the NO connects to the Fuel Pump Relay coil.


Then again, one of these might work also: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=...cut-off+switch

Dave
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Old 04-16-2012, 03:53 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Dave78Chief View Post


(Picture Credit - IRV2 user Subford)

Standard P/N PS151 is an oil pressure switch (the larger canister object above your broken switch connected to the same oil distribution block) , not a Oil Pressure Cut Off switch.

While your inertia switch shows up everywhere, the Oil Pressure Cut off switch does not appear anywhere as far as I can tell. It looks like the oil pressure fuel cutoff switch in your rig only operates as a ON/OFF switch after the engine is started when the engine is running (Ignition in ON position). When ignition key is in START position, the fuel pump relay is bypassed by feeding B+ directly to the fuel pump from the "I" terminal of the Starter Relay. So, all you really need to do is find a regular fuel cutoff switch that has the correct threads to screw into the oil port and then wire it to the Common and Normally Open (NO) contacts (even though you may not be able to use the stock connector). Something like: Airtex 110-OS75 - Airtex Oil Pressure Safety Switches - Overview - SummitRacing.com or P/N OS75 at Autozone




Common to Normally Closed (NC) in aftermarket application is used to provide power to the Fuel Pump when ignition switch is in START position
Common to Normally Open(NO) in aftermarket application is used to provide power to the Fuel Pump when ignition switch is in Run position
Common typically connects to the Fuel pump B+ terminal.
For your rig though, I believe the the Common connects to the Fuse Panel (ignition switch ON) and the NO connects to the Fuel Pump Relay coil.


Then again, one of these might work also: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=...cut-off+switch

Dave
I suddenly realized while looking at my plug it was the mirror image of what the plug pictured on the PS151 part was. I found the cheapest one with free shipping on ebay for 5.49 and ordered it. I will let you know if it works.

My setup is a little strange, see picture, I have a wire bundle with three wires coming out, two go to the oil pressure switch plug and the third is a push on plug much like the ones you would see on a water temp sender. if you look at the lower part of the picture you can see the plastic line that sends oil pressure to the gauge and the reducers that connect that little line to the block that houses the oil pressure switch, all those hose are for the disconnected air pumps
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Old 04-16-2012, 09:22 PM   #18
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Just remember I said:
Quote:
Standard P/N PS151 is an oil pressure switch (the larger canister object above your broken switch connected to the same oil distribution block) , not a Oil Pressure Cut Off switch.
It is not designed to be used as a fuel cutoff switch

Dave
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Old 04-18-2012, 12:18 PM   #19
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Just remember I said:


It is not designed to be used as a fuel cutoff switch

Dave
A Napa salesman looked in his standard ignition catalog and said it is listed as a cutoff switch not a sender. In any event it will be here thursday or fri
it only cost me 5.49 to find out.
Napa wanted 20 bucks for it and they would have had to order one.
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Old 04-18-2012, 02:38 PM   #20
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The NAPA site has a few different X-Refs for PS151
NAPA AUTO PARTS

Oil Pressure, Fuel Cutoff, Choke Heater.\, etc. under a couple of part numbers. Hopefully one of those part numbers will work for you.

Dave
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Old 04-18-2012, 05:30 PM   #21
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The NAPA site has a few different X-Refs for PS151
NAPA AUTO PARTS

Oil Pressure, Fuel Cutoff, Choke Heater.\, etc. under a couple of part numbers. Hopefully one of those part numbers will work for you.

Dave
choke heater, I always wondered how that worked, how does it work?
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Old 04-18-2012, 07:28 PM   #22
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A choke based on engine temperature causes a bimetal coil to expand thereby moving the choke linkage. An electric choke works the same way except the heat source is a piece of resistive wire heating up due to current running through it (like light bulb).

Dave
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Old 04-24-2012, 10:56 AM   #23
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A choke based on engine temperature causes a bimetal coil to expand thereby moving the choke linkage. An electric choke works the same way except the heat source is a piece of resistive wire heating up due to current running through it (like light bulb).

Dave
Dave,
I finally got my 5.49 oil pressure switch yesterday and installed it today. tested it too, got the motor running nice and warmed up and unplugged the switch after a few min the engine died, lack of fuel. Since the switch works on oil pressure I stuck the jumper in heard the fuel pump run and the bowl filling. Plugged it back in and it runs fine
HERE COMES MY QUESTION
The switch has three male spade connectors in it
The plug has three female connectors in it
The plug has only two wires molded into it and a third wire in the bundle has a push on plug in connector, what should I connect that to?
also the pump should be getting juice from somewhere while cranking during start to fill or keep the carb bowl filled until the motor starts and build oil pressure
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Old 04-24-2012, 11:47 AM   #24
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I have no way of knowing what the 3rd terminal is for on that switch. An outside guess is it is for the idiot light (voltage redirected to idiot light via 3rd terminal if oil pressure is lost). That is just a guess though. The oil pressure driven switch provides voltage to the fuel pump relay coil when ignition key is in RUN position and oil pressure is there. When the ignition switch is in the START position, the fuel pump relay is bypassed and voltage for the fuel pump comes from the "I" terminal of the Starter Solinoid. In other words, 2 seperate B+ paths depending on ignition switch position. Far as I know, they tapped off the starter solinoid to help reduce overall voltage drop to the fuel pump (high starter current pulls voltage down to between 9 and 11 volts) during START.

Third wire in bundle - Both the fuel pump cutoff switch and the oil pressure sender (canister looking thing) screw into the same block beside each other. Is the other wire for the oil pressure sending unit? If not I haven't a clue.

Dave
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Old 04-24-2012, 12:06 PM   #25
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I have no way of knowing what the 3rd terminal is for on that switch. An outside guess is it is for the idiot light (voltage redirected to idiot light via 3rd terminal if oil pressure is lost). That is just a guess though. The oil pressure driven switch provides voltage to the fuel pump relay coil when ignition key is in RUN position and oil pressure is there. When the ignition switch is in the START position, the fuel pump relay is bypassed and voltage for the fuel pump comes from the "I" terminal of the Starter Solinoid. In other words, 2 seperate B+ paths depending on ignition switch position. Far as I know, they tapped off the starter solinoid to help reduce overall voltage drop to the fuel pump (high starter current pulls voltage down to between 9 and 11 volts) during START.

Third wire in bundle - Both the fuel pump cutoff switch and the oil pressure sender (canister looking thing) screw into the same block beside each other. Is the other wire for the oil pressure sending unit? If not I haven't a clue.

Dave
That big cannister looking thing in my last photo is part of the emission air pump junk, but you can see the dirty white wire on the top of it I am referring to in my last question.

Let me understand the fuel pump gets juice from the coil during start only and after start when key is in the run position it gets it's juice thru the oil pressure switch? So the "I" terminal on the coil should have two wires on it, one for ignition and one for the fuel pump? if so where does the ignition get it's source after the motor starts?
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Old 04-24-2012, 12:17 PM   #26
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Did the original setup have an electric oil pressure gauge and was replaced with a mechanical one? Old sender would have been removed and replaced by the tube for the mechanical gauge. So unused wire would be for old sender. Wiring diagrams indicate old sender wire was white with a red stripe on it.

Dave
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Old 04-24-2012, 01:08 PM   #27
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Did the original setup have an electric oil pressure gauge and was replaced with a mechanical one? Old sender would have been removed and replaced by the tube for the mechanical gauge. So unused wire would be for old sender. Wiring diagrams indicate old sender wire was white with a red stripe on it.

Dave
Just looked real close at the wire and gauges,
The wire is white with a very thin red stripe on it.
The water temp and oil pressure gauges are both Sunpro gauges and do not look like a match with the other gauges, they could be newer gauges.
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Old 04-24-2012, 01:24 PM   #28
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I am fairly sure that is your answer. JD used electric gauges. There is a picture of originals on pdf pages 245/246 of the manual. Oil was white wit red stripe all the way to gauge. Water temp was red with white stripe all the way to gauge.

Dave
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