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Old 05-01-2009, 01:56 PM   #15
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Use a wirebrush, or a barbaque brush to remove the thicker layers. In my case, there was asphalt roof coater mixed in alternating layers of snow roof. I used a utility knife to cut down to the bare aluminum then a good trowel and putty knife to peel it off in pieces. Wound up taking the paint off the aluminum as well.....
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Old 05-01-2009, 03:31 PM   #16
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Looking up at the inside bathroom ceiling, which you say is hanging down somewhat, has it split open at all to see inside the ceiling from the inside? If the trailer had fiberglass insulation and that got wet, your going to have to get it out of there period. Trust me you don't want "black mold" forming.

When you walk on the roof is it spungy at the area over the bathroom. I'm trying to relate this to a 1970 mobilehome I owned back in the late 80's where I had the same problem. I caught a small leak as soon as I discovered it. I believe mobilehomes and trailers back in the 70's were one in the same. I was able to pull down one of the ceiling tiles and remove the damp insulation, and let it dry out for a few days. On the roof side there was a few pin holes about the size of a bee bee. Everything else seemed to be solid. I didn't cut out any of the roof. I cut out a 8" x 12" patch out of metal and pop-riveted it down to the roof. Then I used some sort of silver colored roof coating over that area. Then about a week later I coated the whole roof with the same stuff. With your pictures showing bare metal I sure would coat the whole roof after you fix your problem area. On the older mobilehomes they said to re-coat the roofs every 2-3 years.

Personally I would use a knife to cut away a section of the inside bathroom ceiling to see what you have. You got to get rid of the wetness one way or the other. Hopefully the wood trusses are not rotted. Even if you damage the inside ceiling material you should be able to find something cheap at a home improvement store to replace it with.

While walking on the roof of my old mobilehome the metal would give between the trusses, but that is normal.
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Old 05-01-2009, 03:57 PM   #17
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I am just not sure I would walk on the roof until I I.D.'ed the damage from the inside.In fact,my roof design does not allow for anyone to walk on the roof.When it come to doing stuff like that,I suggest be cauious.Don't want you to create anymore damage or for you to get hurt.
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Old 05-02-2009, 06:12 AM   #18
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The other thing is soft spots on the flooring is almost never a good sign.It is kind of one of the things you look for before buying one of these RV's.I suggest before you invest in any repairs,you get a handle of the "big picture" of all the repairs and add up what your are going to have to invest to get it done.Pull down the ceiling to see how bad things are,pull up whatever covering on the floor for the same thing,look at the frig,water pump/water system & all the tanks,hot water tank,propane system,heater,stove top/oven,roof top a/c and heater,to get a inventory of the total costs.Get ahead of these repairs costs before hand and build a game plan for it.Some people end up hating their RV because they have sooooo much invested in it and are force to finish it and others walk away from a project losing what they have invested because they found way too much needed to be done.Still some fall in love with their RV and do the work and investment for that reason.Get a handle after you have the total costs in hand and figure out what group of people you are going to fall out in.I surely want you to be successful in this project,but well informed in advance.Older RV's do have in most cases have a lower entry level costs,but some cost more than what they are worth once repaired.With mine,I bought it at such a low cost,I knew going in that even with the worst case repairs,it would be worth more than what I needed to invest.Post what you find in needed repairs and we can try to help you come up with what it is going to cost first.Again pictures help determine the costs,so try to get as good pic's as you can.
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Old 05-02-2009, 08:20 AM   #19
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I did start trying to peal off the layers of different things they put on there, looks like some rubber stuff and then some asphalt stuff on top of that, not comming so easy, around one of the pipes that comes up in the storage closet next to the bathroom, the roof right there is bubbled up higher than the rest of that seam, not sure why, plus the little vent pipe cover is broke to, I am trying to get it scraped off enough to expose the screws, its not suppoed to raing today so I will take pics of what I have so far, I have never worked on a trailer so this is all new to me and I have to rely on what everyone knows here to get it done, I hope I dont have to live out of it but it may happen, still not sure if my Bronco can pull it either, it was brought to me, and the title weight was in a class weight of 4500lbs, but proably not the actual weight, so later I will have to get a plate for it and scale it out,there is alot to do, cant pay the husband to help in any way so its me and you guys to guide me, and I can do it just need a clue, I will get some more pics today, I am greatful for the help and advice I get here, check back later for the pics.
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Old 05-02-2009, 08:30 AM   #20
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yea you are right about all that, I paid $500 for it and was just told about the soft spots in the floor, and that it needed a water pump,that was about it. it was the cheapest think I could find in a trailer, got in case I loose my home and have to live in it with my 5 cats, I will get alot of pics of what is wrong, we are gonna have to wing it on the costs for repairs, I am not sure how the water system works but if its kinda like what the system for a house is I can wing it, the bigest thing for me is the lack of information on my part, a clue on what to do and how to do it is what I need, I will take lots of pics today and you can look and advise me, hey its like we are doing this trailer together, which is cool and I dont feel all alone, but this trailer may end up having to save me and furkids from being in the street, so I cant give up and dont give up on me either, check back later today for the pics I am gonna add and thank you for taking time to give me a hand,
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Old 05-02-2009, 09:05 AM   #21
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Start in the bathroom. You will probably need to cut out the interior ceiling layer with a razor knife. Usually this is just thin luan plywood (1/8 inch). Get all the wet stuff out (insulation, plywood). When you are down to the metal roof, look up to see if you can see any pinholes. A nice sunny day is good for this. I would suggest that you coat the entire roof. Not only will it keep the RV cooler, but the aluminum develops pinholes over time. I even have pinholes in my vertical siding. Using the Snow White Elastoseal Primer will seal any pinholes you may miss. The White Top Coat drops the temps dramatically.



If you feel you must walk on the roof, lay some boards across the roof (exterior wall to exterior wall) and stand only on those.



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Old 05-02-2009, 03:02 PM   #22
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Well I got good news and bad news, I added lots more pics and gonna add some more today as I am working on it, I expected to find some horrible things, what I found wasnt the worst thing that it could be, so its not a lost cause at all , and dont you guys give up on me either, the floor is a mess but only in a couple of spots, seems like they just cut out soft spots, then put new wood without fixing the leaking water lines, well they fixed all the water lines, thats a plus, the floor shouldnt be to bad to do, only the surface layer of the wood got wet, but we will get to the floor later, now our nifty roof, I cut into the celing in the bathroom and was supprised to find that the wet spots were at where those pipes go up throug the roof and only the the bathroom celing near those pipes was wet, once I got that cut out and the cover off the pipe on the roof most of it poped back in place, the big bow near that pipe was because they used oversized screws for the caps, maybe old caps, and didnt have any metal for the screws to catch so they put some big chucks of wood under there for the screws to catch, also looks like they didnt have enough around the pipe for the metal to lay flat, so the seams are fine, the leaks are at where the pipes come thorugh the roof the metal is leaning on the pipe causing the bow,if i can finish getting the screws out on the very back seem then I can reposition the metal to lay the way it should, I checked the other panels in the celing and non are wet, they are fine, and the structure boards are not wet either, seems the water came in where the pipes were and only puddled in the middle of the bathroom celing and thats it, but I still gotta replace that celing in there, so far this is where I am in what I call the treasure finding stage, its gonna take awhile to scrape all that sealant crap off at the seams, its not as bad as I thought it would be, so take a look and advise me some more, LOL, oh found that front wall was leaking at one time to, but we'll get to that later,ok gonna go back out there, supposed to rain again in a couple of days. here is the link again to my pics http://community.webshots.com/album/...host=community
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Old 05-04-2009, 03:10 AM   #23
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Well that is good news with what you found.I did look at some of the pictures and who ever did those seams and sealed the vent should be tied to a tree and left there for awhile to think about the work done.Keep the updates coming.I'll be watching to see how you are doing.

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Old 05-04-2009, 09:40 AM   #24
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Gary, you arer a kind and considerate person. After tying them to a tree I would have poured honey on their feet and made sure there were some ants nearby.

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Old 05-04-2009, 05:08 PM   #25
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Nah...Bury them to there heads and then pour honey on them and leave them there forever!!!!
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Old 05-04-2009, 08:18 PM   #26
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I would try something like a heatgun on the roof.Not sure if a hair dryer would get hot enough but worth a try.A torch would be too dangerous.If everything is well stuck you might just coat over what is there.Scraping you take a chance of tearing the thin aluminum skin and having another problem.
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Old 05-04-2009, 10:24 PM   #27
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Coating over anything but bare metal is not advisable.Don't distort the roof with heat.It's just hard work and tons of elbow grease.Really no short cuts available.Just trust me on that advise.
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Old 05-05-2009, 02:21 PM   #28
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Up date on progress, been doing alot of scraping off and down to just the back and front seam have the worst stuff on it to take off the rest of the trailer top is scraped off now, supposed to rain tomorrow, figures, I noticed that in the front of the trailer the metal that come up from the front , I'll just call it a flap it goes over the top off the roof aluminum and in the back of the trailer the roof metal overlaps the metal flap coming up to the roof, is it supposed to be like that or is both the front and back of the roof metal suppsoed to be tucked under? so look at the new pics and let me know added what I have done so far, now after I get all the stuff off, do I clean it with TSP stuff, then calk the seams first and then put the sealant on last, or what? Still got scraping to do but most of its off now so thats good, so I will try to finish the scraping the junk stuff off then gotta tarp it for tomorrow then after the rain be ready to do some more, but if I get it all sealed on the roof then we'll move down to the corners that need to be put back but the screws have nothing to catch to so I gotta figure something for that next after I get done with the roof take a look at the update roof so far, its alot of work but at least its getting done right, seems taking alot of the old sealant and tar stuff offf the roof is alot less wavy now in most parts its really just the back and front have those dips, LOL so I added more pics so you all can look and see how I am doing so far, I think I am doing pretty good for a little ol lady, LOL http://community.webshots.com/album/...host=community
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