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Old 07-30-2010, 10:40 AM   #15
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Thanks for the info Jim - your input is always valuable and on-target!

My first fuel check will be to verify the in-tank electric IS actually getting power and running once the engine starts - and then I can start tracing fuel PSI at several points...

This really isn't a BIG issue - just one I've noticed if I really push things in the steeper and longer uphills - otherwise, it runs great...
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Old 07-30-2010, 11:33 AM   #16
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[QUOTE=Gary -

My first fuel check will be to verify the in-tank electric IS actually getting power and running once the engine starts - and then I can start tracing fuel PSI at several points...

This really isn't a BIG issue - just one I've noticed if I really push things in the steeper and longer uphills - otherwise, it runs great...[/QUOTE]

Gary, My 87 Chieftan did NOT have the mechanical pump, Only the intank and never had any problems....

I was assured the "Carter street/strip electric pump" would allow the manual pump (stock) to pull the fuel through it, Man what a bunch of B.S.

Going up any long but not steep grades mine would start to buck & snort and I would flip the electric on and away and running it would go...

I have little to NO faith in add on after market electric fuel pumps since they can and will die out in the middle of the boon docks with nothing around .

Stock setups are proven by the factory and I do trust them but with the additions to our new fuels they cast a new problem into the rigs...
Good luck on your finds..

Jim
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Old 07-31-2010, 04:18 PM   #17
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Cliffs High Performance Quadrajets :: Qjet Carburetor Rebuild Kits, Parts, Bushing Kits, Carb Tuning
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Old 08-01-2010, 02:07 AM   #18
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This must be a RV application only.

I worked on a lot of GM Rochester carbs on cars and C30 trucks and never seen or heard of a electric fuel pump with a mechanical one via a regulator in between on the same application. Either or is capable of fulfilling sufficient pressure. Is it a redundant back up?

I suggest starting here, I have located the fuel PSI spec. for a 1988 Chev P 30 cutaway .

The PSI is 4- 6.5 , and the volume is .5 pts with in 15 sec.

If your PSI is w/in specs there is no more to do. If not start checking from the tank forward.

To determine if it is ignition related, hook it up to a oscilloscope, load the engine and the tech should be able to see what is breaking down.
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Old 08-03-2010, 12:13 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by winnworr21 View Post
This must be a RV application only.

I worked on a lot of GM Rochester carbs on cars and C30 trucks and never seen or heard of a electric fuel pump with a mechanical one via a regulator in between on the same application. Either or is capable of fulfilling sufficient pressure. Is it a redundant back up?

I suggest starting here, I have located the fuel PSI spec. for a 1988 Chev P 30 cutaway .

The PSI is 4- 6.5 , and the volume is .5 pts with in 15 sec.

If your PSI is w/in specs there is no more to do. If not start checking from the tank forward.

To determine if it is ignition related, hook it up to a oscilloscope, load the engine and the tech should be able to see what is breaking down.
It may well be a RV-only application, as far as OEM is concerned - but seems pretty common in the year/brand motorhomes as discussed in this thread - thanks for the info - helps a lot!
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Old 08-06-2010, 12:41 PM   #20
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When you start to get into the medium duty range you see alot of in tank or frame mounted factory fuel pumps. Some of the medium duty Ford tractors for small semi trailers are over 500c.i. and had 2 large frame mounted fuel pumps. These trucks would use a tremondous amount of gas. 4 or 5 mpg was good for these.
The medium duty GM engines also had intakes with 2 thermostats in them.

I would check the ignition system before getting into the fuel settings since you have not checked it.
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Old 10-08-2010, 10:35 AM   #21
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Electric Fuel Pump

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary - K7GLD View Post
Thanks for the info Jim - your input is always valuable and on-target!

My first fuel check will be to verify the in-tank electric IS actually getting power and running once the engine starts - and then I can start tracing fuel PSI at several points...

This really isn't a BIG issue - just one I've noticed if I really push things in the steeper and longer uphills - otherwise, it runs great...
Hi Gary, I have the same RV as you. Can you tell me if when you tested your in-tank electric fuel pump it stayed on when you turned on the key? I'm having some fuel issues and I removed the regulator to check it. I decided to check the fuel pump so I turned on the key and it did pump fuel but only for 2 or 3 seconds. Do you know if it's supposed to do that or continue to pump fuel? I had one person tell me that maybe the "sock" filter on the in-tank pump might be clogged.

Any advice is appreciated.
Frankie
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Old 10-08-2010, 11:29 AM   #22
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most are teid into the oil pressure sending unit. no oil pressure no power to pump
dave
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Old 10-08-2010, 12:05 PM   #23
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For future reference
GM/Chevrolet performed an in depth analysis of fuel related problems for the P30 Motorhome chassis. Locate a copy of the Chevrolet Motor Home Chassis Service Guide on the internet (It's a large 10-19MB file). Turn to Appendix 7-7, Vapor Lock Cause and Cure (Page 7-40). There you will find all the information from Cheverolet that was discussed in the previous posts included, all the different configurations, fuel line size, pump pressures, and the approaches GM used to overcome the fuel starvation issues. It will save you a lot of soul searching.
BTW - The stock 454 carburator was a Rochester Quadrajet. Because GM Rochester did not have enough resources to manuafacture enough for all GM divisions, they did sign a contract with Carter in the mid 80's to have Carter build some of the Quadrajets for GM.

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Old 10-13-2010, 11:27 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by mrfpb3 View Post
Hi Gary, I have the same RV as you. Can you tell me if when you tested your in-tank electric fuel pump it stayed on when you turned on the key? I'm having some fuel issues and I removed the regulator to check it. I decided to check the fuel pump so I turned on the key and it did pump fuel but only for 2 or 3 seconds. Do you know if it's supposed to do that or continue to pump fuel? I had one person tell me that maybe the "sock" filter on the in-tank pump might be clogged.

Any advice is appreciated.
Frankie
Good question - mine only runs for a second or 2 at key-on, supposedly to prime the system prior to starting, I had assumed that once the engine actually started, it then resumed running also as long as the engine was running - but have not checked to verify that. Next question is, since these were not "computer controlled" engines, what exactly controls the on/off operation of the in-tank pump - and WHERE is that timing device/circuit located?
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Old 10-13-2010, 11:42 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by Dave78Chief View Post
For future reference
GM/Chevrolet performed an in depth analysis of fuel related problems for the P30 Motorhome chassis. Locate a copy of the Chevrolet Motor Home Chassis Service Guide on the internet (It's a large 10-19MB file). Turn to Appendix 7-7, Vapor Lock Cause and Cure (Page 7-40). There you will find all the information from Cheverolet that was discussed in the previous posts included, all the different configurations, fuel line size, pump pressures, and the approaches GM used to overcome the fuel starvation issues. It will save you a lot of soul searching.
BTW - The stock 454 carburator was a Rochester Quadrajet. Because GM Rochester did not have enough resources to manuafacture enough for all GM divisions, they did sign a contract with Carter in the mid 80's to have Carter build some of the Quadrajets for GM.

Dave
I wonder if anyone can supply a pointer to an online source to view that book - I've only found one for sale on Ebay - but it's pretty pricey for the limited use I'd have for one...
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Old 10-13-2010, 12:11 PM   #26
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You can download the manual at http://www.bdub.net/manuals/P30/P30.pdf

19MB

Dave
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Old 10-13-2010, 04:16 PM   #27
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You can download the manual at http://www.bdub.net/manuals/P30/P30.pdf

19MB

Dave
Dave, A word of thanks for that very concise "Manual".....
The "Vapor lock" and related fuel system is on the money along with the correct way to add the electric fuel pump, Might just try that again.....

Jim
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Old 10-14-2010, 11:44 AM   #28
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Your welcome.
That is one book anyone with a GM P30 chassis should have.
It can be difficult to determine what the regular Chevy/GMC P30 service manual is also. The Service Mnaual is under GM P/N ST 330-YY where YY is the year of your chassis (i.e. ST 330-85 for a 1985 Chassis). The title is what throws people. The title is Chevrolet (or GMC or both) Light Duty Truck Service Manual. It covers C, K, and P chassis types for series 10-30 (1/2 ton to 1 ton). For 1975 and 1976 GM produced supplements that that have to be used with the 1974 Base manual.
A companion Manual is Chevrolet/GMC Light Duty Truck Unit Repair/Overhaul Manual (ST 333-YY; again YY = year of chassis). It provides rebuild procedures for carburator, transmission, alternator, A/C compressor, etc.
It is my understanding that up until the mid to late 80's, the wiring diagrams were contained in the base manual. After that, they placed wiring diagrams in a seperate book.
One has to be very careful when looking for these manuals. Prices range from $15 to $150 depending on who is selling it. 85-89 era are especially pricey.

Dave
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