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Old 07-18-2011, 07:07 PM   #1
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ok Which is it?

Alright here is the dilema: I asked a little while back about sealing my roof and windows. Windows I am good with, but the roof is becoming more of a issue. I was told to get polyeurathane caulk and I bought several tubes not thinking actually how much is was going to take. Just to do the front seam of the drivers compartment where the fiberglass meets the metal it took 2 canss of caulk and not a very good job at that. I tried scraping the old stuff offf because it seemed brittle and soft but realized it was hard underneath. Then I was thinking this is going to take 100 tubes of caulk to do all the seams and around the luggage rack, vents etc. So I talked to a budy of mine because and said why not use a regular roofing tar? They use roofing tar around metal flanges on roofs, he said it might be hard on top but not below and cause it to leak. So I called 2 different rv place's. 1 asked what color was already up there, I said it looks blackish grey, and he said I should go to a mobil home place and by what they use on they're roofs and scrape all the old crap off. Then I called this other place I have used and have bought things from and they said tey have what is called a leveler sealer, comes in a 5 gallon pale and is $50.00. Just poor it on and smooth it out, will go around everything, he said you can do the whole roof or just the seams. I only have a seam at the front as I said where the fiberglass meets the metal, around the luggage rack and where the vents are. So at this point I am thinking the leveler sealer because it makes sense to me as opposed to 100 or so tubes of caulk that isn't cutting it. What have you all used. I had been looking for a polyureathane clear caulk for all the windows and this 1 place does have a clear with 25yr warruntee for $11.00 a tube. Not bad I don't think. So which is it for the roof?
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Old 07-18-2011, 07:41 PM   #2
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do what you are going to do then go to home depot or lowes i used henrys solar it is like a think paint
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Old 07-18-2011, 07:52 PM   #3
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Funny thing is I have been in every hardware store in st.louis asking about both sealants for roof and windows to little help. Even paint stores. But I will check into and read up on what your saying. Thanks for the repy.
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Old 07-18-2011, 08:17 PM   #4
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Unfortunately you are probably too far along in this project to follow my suggestions but I will put them out there for when what you are doing fails and you need to do it again correctly.

1. Everything needs to be absolutely clean. Remove all old calking and wipe down the area with either acetone or lacquer thinner.

2. Cover the seam with 4 inch Eternabond tape and roll it down with a hard roller to get it to adhere to the roof.

3. Put a bead of Dicor calking on the front edges of the Eternabond tape to help keep it sealed down.

This is not a cheap way to seal but it is the best and if you do the installation correctly and get everything clean and dry you will never have to do it again. The best price I have found for the Eternabond tape is here ETERNABOND ROOFSEAL WHITE 4" X 50' ROLL

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Old 07-18-2011, 08:27 PM   #5
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Unfortunately you are probably too far along in this project to follow my suggestions but I will put them out there for when what you are doing fails and you need to do it again correctly.

1. Everything needs to be absolutely clean. Remove all old calking and wipe down the area with either acetone or lacquer thinner.

2. Cover the seam with 4 inch Eternabond tape and roll it down with a hard roller to get it to adhere to the roof.

3. Put a bead of Dicor calking on the front edges of the Eternabond tape to help keep it sealed down.

This is not a cheap way to seal but it is the best and if you do the installation correctly and get everything clean and dry you will never have to do it again. The best price I have found for the Eternabond tape is here ETERNABOND ROOFSEAL WHITE 4" X 50' ROLL
I have to be honest, your suggestion is really what I thought about originally, but the 1st thing I did was to try and remove the old coating. Impossable. It's like concrete. I tried scraping it, heating it up with a heat gun and scrapping and that old stuff especally around the vents and luggage rack is on there but good. Nothing short of a jackhammer is going to get that stuff off. The front I was only able to get a little off as well. So I am really forced to go over what is left.
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Old 07-18-2011, 09:39 PM   #6
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I have had good luck with a wood chisel and a hammer but you have to be careful not to cut into the roof. Usually once you get down a ways it will be softer. Are you sure someone did not use fiberglass instead of calk?
If it is that hard clean it good and buy Eternabond that is wide enough to reach metal on either side by a couple inches and roll it down good.
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Old 07-19-2011, 07:45 AM   #7
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The 88 has a metal roof doesn't it? If so, I'd be inclined to agree with dealer #2 and do seams only.

If it's a laminated 'glass roof, I'd do the whole thing - depending on how it looks.
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Old 07-19-2011, 08:24 AM   #8
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Ditto what bcpreese has told you, which is what others have told you previously. No one on this forum ever suggested you caulk the entire roof, I'm pretty sure. Eternabond tape, then Dicor or C-10 caulk over screwheads, then Kool Seal over the whole roof

You can apply the Eternabond tape over any very CLEAN tight, smooth surface; that includes old caulk that is tightly adhering. Even though its best, it is not absolutely critical to get down to bare metal or fiberglass.

The best tool, HANDS DOWN for getting through old caulk and sealant is a small toothed flat blade on a multi-tool. Cuts through sticky; cuts through hard; works great.

I'm pretty sure roofing tar is made strictly for stationary houses; the amount of flexing and moving your RV does will defeat any sealant that isn't specifically designed to move a LOT. Try googling roofing tar and RVs and I think you'll find absolutely no one with an RV will recommend it, despite what your good buddy told you.

I know you want to do this roof job on the cheap. If you only plan to keep this rig for a year or two, more power to ya (pity the next owner) but I think you need to realize something;

To do this job CORRECTLY so the leaks don't reappear immediately or in a season or two, will cost you some real money, not just a $20 bill or two.

Good luck, I know you don't want to hear any of this and you seem to ignore most of what you do hear
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Old 07-19-2011, 10:51 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by Senior Chief View Post

SNIP

I'm pretty sure roofing tar is made strictly for stationary houses; the amount of flexing and moving your RV does will defeat any sealant that isn't specifically designed to move a LOT. Try googling roofing tar and RVs and I think you'll find absolutely no one with an RV will recommend it, despite what your good buddy told you.

SNIP
In days gone by for emergencies I have used Henry's roof patch which is a tar base. Mostly putting it on with a calking gun or putty knife on the seams. After a summer in the sun it dries out and cracks leaving voids that leak like a sieve. It is also a horrible mess to remove. The only good thing about that stuff is you can apply it in the rain and that has saved me.
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Old 07-19-2011, 07:33 PM   #10
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Ditto what bcpreese has told you, which is what others have told you previously. No one on this forum ever suggested you caulk the entire roof, I'm pretty sure. Eternabond tape, then Dicor or C-10 caulk over screwheads, then Kool Seal over the whole roof

You can apply the Eternabond tape over any very CLEAN tight, smooth surface; that includes old caulk that is tightly adhering. Even though its best, it is not absolutely critical to get down to bare metal or fiberglass.

The best tool, HANDS DOWN for getting through old caulk and sealant is a small toothed flat blade on a multi-tool. Cuts through sticky; cuts through hard; works great.

I'm pretty sure roofing tar is made strictly for stationary houses; the amount of flexing and moving your RV does will defeat any sealant that isn't specifically designed to move a LOT. Try googling roofing tar and RVs and I think you'll find absolutely no one with an RV will recommend it, despite what your good buddy told you.

I know you want to do this roof job on the cheap. If you only plan to keep this rig for a year or two, more power to ya (pity the next owner) but I think you need to realize something;

To do this job CORRECTLY so the leaks don't reappear immediately or in a season or two, will cost you some real money, not just a $20 bill or two.

Good luck, I know you don't want to hear any of this and you seem to ignore most of what you do hear
I take offense to this comment that I ignore most of what I hear senior chief. I have gone along with most of what is said on hear and have done some research on the things that make sense. Buying a couple of rolls of tape for $110.00 and some sealer probably another $100.00 when all said and done is not exspensive. 98% of the time Ihave no problem spending the money to get things done what some seem tosay is the right way. You and probably many others on here have probably have had multiple rigs with many exspierance's. This is my 1st. Everything new is an exsperiance. As for as being a cheap skate, not hardly. I have a $70k chopper among other high end toys I pay certain people to work on because I want it right. Even if I have to put it in my enclosed trailer to get it there, along with my other bike, or boats, or trucks I own. I also own 2 house's. 1 I live in and 1 on the water at Lake of the ozarks 31mm. So no I am not a cheap skate. inexspierance doesn't make you cheap. Minimal means might qualify for that. So I do take exception to your reply. Thank you very much.
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Old 07-19-2011, 09:58 PM   #11
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Our 87 bounder has the 1 piece ally roof panel,the side roof seams will need doing pretty soon. The metal panel bends over the top/edge of the roof about 1/2-1" down each side with extruded ally strip down each side at the top screwed down over the bent roof panel.

Front and rear caps just have a metal strip over the top of the seam with the grey hard gungy stuff over the seals and screw heads. The grey stuff will come off as managed to replace one of the roof vents,but some sealant refused to come off. So don't worry too much as the eternabond is very sticky and with a clean enough surface (even old caulk) rolled enough you should have a nice seal.

The other seams including the luggage rack etc just have the grey sealer over them that is still pretty soft ,with those probably best to just clean off as much of the grey as possible then use some dicor self levelling stuff over the mount and screws.

The eternabond is pretty good stuff so easy to use plus with just sealing the edge of the tape with dicor or other self levelling sealant you won't have to use as much.

Others have put the tape directly over old caulk too with good results just make sure its clean and you roll over the tape well.
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Old 07-20-2011, 12:53 PM   #12
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I take offense to this comment that I ignore most of what I hear senior chief. I have gone along with most of what is said on hear and have done some research on the things that make sense. Buying a couple of rolls of tape for $110.00 and some sealer probably another $100.00 when all said and done is not exspensive. 98% of the time Ihave no problem spending the money to get things done what some seem tosay is the right way. You and probably many others on here have probably have had multiple rigs with many exspierance's. This is my 1st. Everything new is an exsperiance. As for as being a cheap skate, not hardly. I have a $70k chopper among other high end toys I pay certain people to work on because I want it right. Even if I have to put it in my enclosed trailer to get it there, along with my other bike, or boats, or trucks I own. I also own 2 house's. 1 I live in and 1 on the water at Lake of the ozarks 31mm. So no I am not a cheap skate. inexspierance doesn't make you cheap. Minimal means might qualify for that. So I do take exception to your reply. Thank you very much.

I sincerely apologize if I've hurt your feelings. That wasn't my intention. I certainly have made no assumptions about how much money you have or the value of your possessions. I honestly don't care.

I also see nothing wrong with being a cheapskate (I'd classify myself as one; its one reason why we drive an old rig).

You have asked lots of questions here, and you've gotten many well-informed answers from people with plenty of experience to guide you.

If you choose to ignore that advice, more power to you. I personally just don't see any point in responding to your questions anymore.

Adios
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Old 07-20-2011, 03:00 PM   #13
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I sincerely apologize if I've hurt your feelings. That wasn't my intention. I certainly have made no assumptions about how much money you have or the value of your possessions. I honestly don't care.

I also see nothing wrong with being a cheapskate (I'd classify myself as one; its one reason why we drive an old rig).

You have asked lots of questions here, and you've gotten many well-informed answers from people with plenty of experience to guide you.

If you choose to ignore that advice, more power to you. I personally just don't see any point in responding to your questions anymore.

Adios
hmm that was sort of a back handed opology. No worries. I bought the tape and the caulk that was for mentioned and plan on spending the next several evenings trying to get rid of as much of the old sealer as possable. Then appling it as many of you suggested. I have made an appointment for the coach to be taken in to a rv dealer so they can extract all the windows and properly seal them with the tape ans caulk that again was for mentioned. Thanks very much for your advice to all. Including you senior chief. No hard feelings. I just take things a little personal sometimes.
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Old 07-20-2011, 04:33 PM   #14
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Then appling it as many of you suggested. I have made an appointment for the coach to be taken in to a rv dealer so they can extract all the windows and properly seal them with the tape ans caulk that again was for mentioned.
That's actually a DIY job if you want to save some bucks.
Windows come out easily after you remove the 1,000 square headed screws on the inside. Set up a tall table on the outside to hold the window. Use suction cups with the handles to assist. Do all of the windows leak?
Or just PM?
J
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