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Old 03-10-2007, 06:10 PM   #1
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I've got an 83 28 foot honey class A and I've got cracking on the front and rear caps. I believe its fiberglass. Anyone know the procedure for repair/ repaint, or anyone ever attempted this? Thanks in advance Jim
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Old 03-10-2007, 06:10 PM   #2
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I've got an 83 28 foot honey class A and I've got cracking on the front and rear caps. I believe its fiberglass. Anyone know the procedure for repair/ repaint, or anyone ever attempted this? Thanks in advance Jim
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Old 03-11-2007, 06:08 PM   #3
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JimWoods welcome to irv2
Have done alot of things but fiber glass is alot of work and I'm not a body man. I have a good garage that has done repairs and he works on boats does a class #1 job.
If your work isn't that bad taking your time and reading up on what you have to do you maybe can go for it.
I'll post this in another forum and maybe someone can give you some hints.
Enjoy the forums and do post often.
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Old 03-12-2007, 12:21 AM   #4
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Jim Woods, welcome to iRV2.com. We are glad to have you join us. Are the cracks many small hairline? If so they are stress cracks and It will be a large job to take care of. If it is a larger single crack it may not be so bad to repair. A hole will need to be drilled through the cap at the end of these large cracks and then filled and painted over onec reparis have been made. GOod luck and enjoy the website.
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Old 03-12-2007, 04:54 PM   #5
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It appears they are many small stress cracks. I'm having trouble with leakage around the back window. I'm not sure its the window, I did reseal the running lites they were not sealed so that took care of much of the problem. But I'm still seeing signs of leakage and I thought those cracks could be it.
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Old 03-12-2007, 05:29 PM   #6
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The window is more likely the culprit for the water leak that the small cracks in the gelcoat of the fiberglass. The best way to reseal the window is to remove it, clean the surfaces, install new putty tape and reinstall. Trim off excess putty pushed out after tightening the inside trim ring. Good luck and keep us posted on the progress.
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Old 03-14-2007, 06:29 PM   #7
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Thanks it sounds like that would be a quick and easy thing to reseal. I'll give it a shot as soon as it dries up here in the Great Lake state.
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Old 03-15-2007, 01:50 PM   #8
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Another Michigander, glade your here. I'd start with the windows also. It's not a bad job to remove them. Clean the old putty of the window and side of trailer. A lot of people think they want to use window caulk also behind the frame. DO NOT, only the putty is what you need to use. After it sets for a while some putty will ooze out. Use a plastic putty knife to cut that off. Here is a good tip I found. Put the putty in the freezer for a couple of minutes before appling it. This way it will not stick to itself so bad. Just don't let it get to hard that it will not stick to the window.

Good Luck and let us know how it's going.
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Old 03-18-2007, 06:46 AM   #9
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Thanks, I appreciate all the help I can get. As soon as the "spring thaw" comes I'll hit it hard. I've got exhaust manifolds to work on and I'd also like to fabricate an air box/blower to improve air flow to the 454. I saw that somewhere, it said would help out with fuel economy, to force more air to the carb.
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Old 03-18-2007, 01:49 PM   #10
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You could also find your water leak is from someplace on the roof. I had that on an '89 Jamboree and the leak that showed up in the over cab bed was actually coming from the roof near the rear. I have had good experience with Eternabond tape for leaks. On my Pace Arrow I put Eternabond around all of the seams before any problems and never had a leak. Good Luck.
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Old 03-19-2007, 08:38 AM   #11
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I've heard of the Eternabond tape. Is it as good as they say, does it stick on well or is it more of a temporary repair. I had in my mind that rubber flashing you put around windows to seal when you install new windows. The stuff sticks to itself and is rubbery. I truly and thankful for everyones input!
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Old 03-19-2007, 09:10 AM   #12
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Jim its pretty tough to get off once applied alot of people have used the tape for seams around roof areas. The window ribbon seal is like a caulk that will squeeze out as you apply pressure tightening the screws around window caseing.
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