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Old 04-03-2012, 05:03 PM   #1
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OMG I also have a Motorcraft Carb

I was fiddling around with the AC system and the motor was running a little rough. I thought I would just adjust the carb. Holy Crap right in front of me is a label, MOTORCRAFT E6JLAB with another number below that A8L10,
What the heck, I thought it was a Holley, it looks like a Holley, it has float adjustments and sight holes on the float bowl sides but it does not have adjusting screws, I looked all over, How the heck do you make adjustments on this thing? I can't even Find that number on any Carb website
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Old 04-03-2012, 05:50 PM   #2
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Holley built it for Motorcraft
so how does a carb work, anyhow?

Dave
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Old 04-03-2012, 06:11 PM   #3
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Quote:
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Holley built it for Motorcraft
so how does a carb work, anyhow?

Dave
I called holley and they told me I have a 4180 600CFM carb and the adjusting screws are hidden under the front primary fuel bowl behind some caps. To get the caps off I have to remove the carb to dig em out.
Ford ordered the carb built that way, they felt the factory adjustment was good enough. The holly guy suggested I leave well enough alone and perhaps to run some carb cleaner thru there,
I can disconnect the fuel pump connection run the motor a little and add seafoan to the bowl thru the bowl vents. it will be very smokey but should help to clear out whatever crap is in there. I have already poured two cans in the gas a few months ago. I have around 20-30 gal in there
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Old 04-04-2012, 11:57 AM   #4
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I called holley and they told me I have a 4180 600CFM carb and the adjusting screws are hidden under the front primary fuel bowl behind some caps. To get the caps off I have to remove the carb to dig em out.
Ford ordered the carb built that way, they felt the factory adjustment was good enough. The holly guy suggested I leave well enough alone and perhaps to run some carb cleaner thru there,
I can disconnect the fuel pump connection run the motor a little and add seafoan to the bowl thru the bowl vents. it will be very smokey but should help to clear out whatever crap is in there. I have already poured two cans in the gas a few months ago. I have around 20-30 gal in there
I took my own advice from the other Carb discussion and squirted seafoam into the float chamber vents until it overflowed, let it sit for a while then started the motor. It was a bear to start as seafoam does not burn, when it started it smoked like mad and ran awful for a little while then it began to slowly smoke less and run better, did it all over again and now it is running as smooth as crap thru a goose. Whatever was in there seafoam cleaned it out. Goona do like the Holley rep said and leave well enough alone now.
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Old 04-05-2012, 05:40 AM   #5
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Where are the bowl vents ? I have the same carb.
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Old 04-05-2012, 12:44 PM   #6
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Where are the bowl vents ? I have the same carb.
The vents are the two tubes stocking straight up that I am pointing to in the first picture
The second picture is a tool I made up, I filled the squeeze thing with seafoam and put the hose over the vent and filled the chamber till seafoam came squirting out the openings inside the carb.
I let it all sit for about 5-10 min to do it's thing and then went to start the motor. It will not start right away, seafoam does not burn, when it does it will run like crap and smoke like mad but will run then run smoother, I did it twice and it runs real nice now. the seafoam opens up partialy blocked passeges inside the carb and cleans out all the varnish and crud that built up unseen in there. If the accelerator pump or power valve are shot nothing will fix that other then a carb rebuild with new parts .

You can also use seafoam to decarb a motor but that is a diff story and process and your whole neighbirhood will disapear in a big cloud of smoke when you start the motor after the de carb, we use that on motors with lots of miles. It is a favorite cure for outboat motor mechanics.

To decarb a motor you need a full can of seafoam
Run the motor untill it reaches normal operating temps
Run the motor at about 1500 rpm as you start to slowely pour seafom directly into the carb throat, the motor will start to run rough, slowely pour more and more until the motor stops, it will take a whole can of seafom to do this. Let the motor sit for about 15-20 min. then restart it. DO this on a windy day. The giant cloud of white smoke coming from the exhaust pipe is all the carbon and crud that has built up on the cylinder heads, pistons, valves and rings over the years. The smoking will gradually stop after about 5 min and the motor will run better.
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Old 04-05-2012, 01:06 PM   #7
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Besides the Power Valve and Accelerator pump, the other part that time does in is the plastic floats. They degrade with time and stop floating properly resulting in flooding of the carb (fuel level in bowl to high). In my link above (post #2), there are links to the manual, carb kit and replacement floats.

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Old 04-05-2012, 01:43 PM   #8
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Besides the Power Valve and Accelerator pump, the other part that time does in is the plastic floats. They degrade with time and stop floating properly resulting in flooding of the carb (fuel level in bowl to high). In my link above (post #2), there are links to the manual, carb kit and replacement floats.

Dave
I forgot about the floats, I'll bet the E in our gas has a lot to do with killing those. I rebuild 3 Holley 4 barrels in the last year or so and none of those kits came with new floats
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Old 04-05-2012, 05:29 PM   #9
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Typically the floats are not included. You have to purchase them seperately. I just replaced the plastic ones in my Thermoquad with brass floats.

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Old 04-05-2012, 05:31 PM   #10
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Thanks for the info !!! I've used Seefoam many times on my ATV's, motorcycles, etc. So unfortunately, I'm very familiar with it lol. The gasket around the front bowl and accelerator pump were leaking on mine, and I just bought a rebuild kit and replaced the gaskets (as well as the rear bowl gasket) and the accelerator pump. My floats still looked pretty good, but I'm trying to figure a little preventative maintenance for the old girl. Just changing the leaking gaskets and accelerator pump made a WORLD of difference in idle and performance. It idles extremely smooth, and has noticeable more pep. I haven't had a chance to get it on the road yet to see if helps mileage any, but I'm happy nonetheless.

Has anybody heard that BP and Shell premium gas do not contain E ?? I heard this the other day on a truck forum, but I have not been able to find anything that substantiates the claim. If that's true, I might have to start running premium in the old girl.
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Old 04-05-2012, 05:39 PM   #11
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Fairly sure for the most part BP and Shell both have ethanol in all their blends. Here is where you can locate e-free gas for your region: Ethanol-free gas stations in FL
I do notice you can find a few Shell and Sunoco stations in the listins for VA.

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Old 04-05-2012, 06:04 PM   #12
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I've looked at that a few times, and wondered how accurate it was. Regardless, witht the exception of a couple of marinas, the closest station to me is about 60 miles according to that.
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Old 04-05-2012, 07:59 PM   #13
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I've looked at that a few times, and wondered how accurate it was. Regardless, witht the exception of a couple of marinas, The closest e free station to me is about 60 miles according to that.
We have one station about 4 miles from where I live but the single e free gas pump is about the same price as hi test, what a rip off. when I drove thru to look the pump has a sign on it that said they were temp out of it.
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Old 04-05-2012, 09:42 PM   #14
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http://www.exxon.com/USA-English/GFM...soline_Map.pdf
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