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12-30-2012, 12:34 AM
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#15
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: In a lawnchair
Posts: 11,993
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Very cool! Have fun with the renovation.
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01-01-2013, 06:28 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 2,500
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That 413 was an Awsome motor !!! I bought one from a motorhome once, rebuilt it, (a lot of mods) , it went in my 76 Power Wagon. Would spin all 4 31's on dry pavement. It'll last a long time, with a little proper care. And plenty of power just the way it is... Good luck on your project . It will be very special when done !!
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Monkey, pilot of a Great Dane hauler,
2015 Silverado 2500 Duramax/Alison 4x4 CrewCab 2016 Cougar 28SGS
1ST CAV
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01-01-2013, 06:43 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Beaumont, TX
Posts: 258
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rvjimmy
Be careful when working with those split rims. First thing to do is get rid of them and get tubeless if possible. Those split rims can take your head off if you don't know what you're doing. Safety first. Jim
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X2 on the split rims.
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Drake, Kathy, & Kaitlyn
2006 Fleetwood Bounder 35E Gasser
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01-01-2013, 09:36 PM
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#18
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 80
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I had a metal roof on an old travel trailer. I used a self leveling sealant on it that I bought at Lowes. I had no idea what I was doing at the time but, the self leveling caulk worked great and was as close to permanent as you can ask for on a moving vehicle. My roof is rubber now and I recoated two years ago with white liquid rubber, 5 gallons when it was all said and done. It's still dry as a bone and we were camping at the Carolina coast when those storms and tornadoes blew through at Christmas. My thinking is that with the metal roof with cracked up fiberglass you might be able to be a little creative. I would consider something strong and flexible. I might avoid using fiberglass patches as that will probably crack again. I would think that if you stayed with fiberglass you would really need to completely recover the whole thing with a single sheet (or several big sheets) of fiberglass to allow it to flex a bit without cracks at the repair joints.
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01-03-2013, 12:46 AM
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#19
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Kerrville, TX
Posts: 29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by falconbro
I had a metal roof on an old travel trailer. I used a self leveling sealant on it that I bought at Lowes. I had no idea what I was doing at the time but, the self leveling caulk worked great and was as close to permanent as you can ask for on a moving vehicle. My roof is rubber now and I recoated two years ago with white liquid rubber, 5 gallons when it was all said and done. It's still dry as a bone and we were camping at the Carolina coast when those storms and tornadoes blew through at Christmas. My thinking is that with the metal roof with cracked up fiberglass you might be able to be a little creative. I would consider something strong and flexible. I might avoid using fiberglass patches as that will probably crack again. I would think that if you stayed with fiberglass you would really need to completely recover the whole thing with a single sheet (or several big sheets) of fiberglass to allow it to flex a bit without cracks at the repair joints.
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I got up there and looked at it better. It is just the galvanized metal roof up there, As RNW said his was too. So I'm thinking i can't get by with just using a something from Lowes or Homedepot.
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01-04-2013, 02:01 PM
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#20
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 80
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Yea, metal roof is easy to repair. On my old prowler travel trailer I used self leveling caulk and it lasted till I sold it a couple of years later. I used white. Me personally, I would avoid the black roofing sealant. That stuff is like a tar and wont last as, from what I have seen, it kind of shrinks and dries up over time. I would avoid RTV also. It will start to peel after a short period of time and will leak for sure.
I'm no expert on sealants, just sharing my limited experience. A lot of sealants will say on the tube what they are best for. Also, I check my roof several times a year. About once a year I climb up there with a tube of EPDM sealant and just touch up any spots that look like they may be future problems.
The good news is that with a metal roof you can't get it wrong. If what you put up there doesn't do the trick scrape it off and try something else.
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01-12-2013, 09:56 AM
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#21
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 770
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Don't know much about restorations but would love to see photos as you progress with this and the outcome. Keep posting.
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01-12-2013, 04:12 PM
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#22
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Kerrville, TX
Posts: 29
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Well not to much progress. But scuffed up the driveshaft and repainted it and put on new u joints.
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01-12-2013, 06:33 PM
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#23
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 770
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Labor of love
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01-12-2013, 07:38 PM
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#24
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Member
Vintage RV Owners Club Pond Piggies Club
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Ontario Ohio
Posts: 62
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keep up the good work
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01-16-2013, 05:14 PM
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#25
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Bossier City,Louisiana
Posts: 658
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saw one today just like it loaded on a flat bed truck going to scrap yard to be crushed , sad to see our past being wasted when someone could and would restore it . yours looks in better shape hope it turns out good for you .
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02-18-2014, 08:29 PM
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#27
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Kerrville, TX
Posts: 29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phierywred
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sadly no, I have been working on other projects. This one gotten pushed to the back of the list again.
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04-10-2015, 10:08 PM
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#28
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Kerrville, TX
Posts: 29
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Well we are moving from Tennessee to texas so I finally am working on it because we refused to sell our for scrap or parts. My dad and I have been working on it this week. Pulled out the carpet and other trash that was in it. We got the cracked windshield out and gave it to my glass guy to cut a new one. Also got the side windows out that needed glass.
Have the new windshield installed and made the drivers side look awful so getting that cut and will have it installed next week.
Also ordered all new brake shoes, wheel cylinders, rubber lines, and shocks.
Also Ordered all new interior led lights, new water heater, new fuse box/ converter, new water pump and filter and speakers and other pieces that I need. I'll be rewiring the whole rv (well any 12v or 120v rv side of parts)
ANY recommendation on how to repaint it? I'm going use stripper to get old paint off, then rinse with soap and water followed by a vinegar wipe down (its galvanized metal) but not sure what to do about actual primer and paint.
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