Pinion Seal Leaking

[JSutton1]

Hi Folks!

Have an 1984 Vogue Diesel. Loosing lots of oil out my differential pinion seal. Coating the back of the rig.

Was looking for some help on where I should look for the new seal. Would replace it myself, but unlike my car, this rig has truck parts from a number of manufacturers. Not sure who is a supplier?

Any help getting started would be appreciated.

Thanks!

Jim

[JSutton1]

This is a pic of the numbers on the side of the differential and one of my rig. Hopefully they uploaded.

[twinboat]

If it's leaking anyway, pull it out and get the number off it. If no # take it to a bearing and seal place to help ID it.


Look for a plugged vent. Then look for wire or fishing line wrapped in it or a loose pinion bearing. They usually last a long time.

[JSutton1]

wire in the vent or in the seal?

I muscled around the drive shaft. Don't feel and play or wobble.

[38Chevy454]

One caution, the seal is behind the large pinion nut. This nut also controls the bearing preload on the pinion bearings. So do not just go and loosen it up to remove the yoke without some pre-removal steps. Best is to check the preload with an inch-pound torque wrench. Also count/mark the threads so you put the nut back on exactly same place. This can take place of the torque wrench. If you do not se the preload back at correct value, the bearings could burn up if too tight or the rearend could make noise if too loose.

The pinion nut is very tight, like a couple hundred foot pounds or more. If all this is beyond your capabilities, take to a shop that specializes in rearend work. They will know how to do it.

Once apart, the seal will have a number you can trace and cross-reference, and should be able to get a new one that is the same. Any good bearing house will also have seals and be able to look up the number on your old seal.

[JSutton1]

Thanks! I was aware of the bearing load issue. And from past work on the rig I have obtained a torque multiplier and a one inch socket set, so I should be able to get it off.

Thanks for your input!

I am going to look for a vent, as I don't remember seeing one. I would assume a vent issue could force the oil out as the rear end heats up.

The seal that on there looks like it was recently replaced. I am wondering if there is not an issue with the metal that the seal comes in contact with or if they purchased the correct seal.

[stumpnc]

Take the driveshaft loose.then remove pinion yoke nut.and remove yoke. Remove the bolts on the seal flange and remove flange. Press old seal out of flange and remove any gasket sealer on flange and differential.Replace seal and use a new nut on pinion shaft torque to spec probably min 450 ft lbs.You can get everything you need at TruckPro, Fleetpride, etc. Use new u joint straps and bolts also.U joint straps pinion nuts etc are all one use items.

[JaycoEagle10]

Well, I can see from the picture, that that little "I inside the H" is an International Harvester casting. You need more pictures and the axle tag codes to let a Technician in parts to help you.

Do you live in or near a large town that might have a Axle repair shop or maybe a NAPA can help with axle identification and parts replacement.

I live in rural area and our NAPA does all the farm parts for tractors/farm trucks, and I know older International Harvester(grain trucks), are a big part of farming.

[Dtwallace]

You may want to check your oil level in the rear end housing before you take anything apart.

If it's overfilled, it would cause oil to seep out of the pinion also. That along with the above mentioned vent is just something you want to be aware of.

[wisconsinjim]

Take the rig to Catco if you have one close otherwise check with NAPA