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01-07-2012, 07:45 PM
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#631
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Junior Member
Vintage RV Owners Club
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: middleboro
Posts: 25
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oh, and i got it for $200..... i talked him down a hundred since i was gunna need to get it towed.... then after a few days of working on it after work i drove it home, kinda scary with almost no brakes haha.
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01-07-2012, 09:09 PM
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#632
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Junior Member
Vintage RV Owners Club
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: middleboro
Posts: 25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnnyd111
Hey I know this camper personally!! Your a sandy necker. Is that 4wd
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my rv was a sandy necker for years before i had it! cant wait to have it out there next summer!
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01-08-2012, 04:35 AM
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#633
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Southern Wisconsin, USA
Posts: 144
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Quote:
Originally Posted by montecoolkid
oh, and i got it for $200..... i talked him down a hundred since i was gunna need to get it towed.... then after a few days of working on it after work i drove it home, kinda scary with almost no brakes haha.
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Please tell us the part of your story about the end loader....
__________________
Dave & Marilyn - Southern Wisconsin
1985 33' Pace Arrow "Titanic", 454+.040", Thorley Tri-Y
Quadrajet, Torque Cam, TH475 w/Cooler, No Dash A/C
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01-08-2012, 11:04 AM
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#634
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Junior Member
Vintage RV Owners Club
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: middleboro
Posts: 25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TitanicPilot
Please tell us the part of your story about the end loader....
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haha, i used the front end loader to lift up the back end to do the brakes yesterday. the superior is pretty heavy and was very awkward when i tried to jack it up, even with my 3 1/2 ton cornwell jack. it actually has all metal framing and galvanized steel skins. so i just put one fork on the trailer hitch (with both front wheels chocked front and back) and very carefully lifted it untill i could fit jack stands under the rear end. Its still apart right now, im gunna have to wait till monday to get the wheel seals and cylinders.
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01-08-2012, 11:09 AM
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#635
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Junior Member
Vintage RV Owners Club
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: middleboro
Posts: 25
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the hitch distributes the wight nicely, i went really easy
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01-08-2012, 12:03 PM
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#636
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Senior Member
Nor'easters Club
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 127
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1991 Aero Cruiser 23RBa
Here's my RV.
It's a 1991 Aero Cruiser 23' 8" Low Profile (99" at roof A/C) motorhome. Built from 1988 through 1992. Although the 1988-Early 1990 are wood framed and the 1991-1992 are metal framed. (the 1992s all 12 or so of them are on a longer wheelbase) The aearly ones had a Vironex custom chassis, later models have an LGS modified chassis that fixed quite a few handling issues.
I looked a long time for the right year/floorplan. Since they only made 350 or so total, it was pretty hard. I chose it after researching countless models, since I HAD to have a separate shower/toilet and a full galley. I wanted a large corner bed and a large generator. I looked at the GMCs, the Vixen, the Chieftains (22ft/23ft), and MANY others.
Aero Cruisers all had the Chrysler Industrial 5.9L (360ci) V8 late 1990-1992 had TBI (Throttle Body Fuel Injection) I get between 12-14mpg on the highway and 10-11mpg on hills and back roads
For me, this is the perfect getaway vacation RV. I've put a lot of work/mods into it.
The weblog in my sig has a few of my mods written up, including my Solar charging setup. Since my roof space was tiny this wasn't so easy
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01-08-2012, 12:58 PM
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#637
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Registered User
Vintage RV Owners Club Gulf Streamers Club
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Indiana
Posts: 4,951
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Quote:
Originally Posted by montecoolkid
hey guys, ive put up a few posts, but ill put up some pics of my 1975 doge superior 2800, dodge 440 engine. I'm in the early stages of a restomod. right now im just trying to get it mechanically sound, brakes are almost non existent which i was working on today, no rear lights. should be great when its done these superiors were built really well and its in pretty good shape!
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Love the Left Hand gear select!
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01-08-2012, 02:42 PM
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#638
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Junior Member
Vintage RV Owners Club
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: middleboro
Posts: 25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Midniteoyl
Love the Left Hand gear select!
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that's one of my favorite parts, reminds me a of a boat!
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01-16-2012, 10:16 AM
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#639
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 17
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1978 georgie boy gruise air
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01-17-2012, 06:10 AM
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#640
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 9
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Here is a pic of the old Streamline last week in South Florida.
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01-17-2012, 08:59 AM
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#641
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by illinileftta
Hello= My story is a lot like many here-I found this RV in a field next to a garage-been sitting for a few years- made a real good deal-it would not turn over-starter was bad-Mans wife just wanted it gone. Some of these pics are before-then after-here goes-
Hey Al, Please show us what you are doing on your new RV. Looks like a good wash and general clean up will do a lot to bring her back in shape. Tell us what is planned.
Good Find.
Thanks for looking-Al
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Great RV and can't wait to see your restore....POST SOME PICS pls.
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01-20-2012, 08:52 PM
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#643
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Olivehurst, CA
Posts: 498
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Easiest way to check if the timing chain is excessively worn is to point a timing light at the timing mark on the harmonic balancer while the engine is running. Make sure the vacuum advance line is disconnected and plugged. If the timing mark appears to jump around dramatically then there is a good chance that the timing chain has excessive slack in it. When the chain has excessive slack the camshaft will speed up and slow down rapidly effectively pulling tight against one side of the chain then bouncing back the other way and pulling tight on the other side of the chain. Since the distributor is mechanically connected to the camshaft, the point at which the spark plug is ignited will change in relation to the position to the crankshaft. A wore distributor can cause a similar effect, but generally will be less dramatic and less likely especially if the vacuum advance is disconnected. The mechanical advance in the distributor should not have any effect on the test since the engine will be at idle speed only. I hope this information is helpful to you, have fun.
__________________
1984 Winnebago Cheiftain 27RU, P32 Chassis, 454, Banks Power Pack, TH400
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01-21-2012, 09:56 AM
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#644
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Junior Member
Vintage RV Owners Club
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: middleboro
Posts: 25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Winnebeater
Easiest way to check if the timing chain is excessively worn is to point a timing light at the timing mark on the harmonic balancer while the engine is running. Make sure the vacuum advance line is disconnected and plugged. If the timing mark appears to jump around dramatically then there is a good chance that the timing chain has excessive slack in it. When the chain has excessive slack the camshaft will speed up and slow down rapidly effectively pulling tight against one side of the chain then bouncing back the other way and pulling tight on the other side of the chain. Since the distributor is mechanically connected to the camshaft, the point at which the spark plug is ignited will change in relation to the position to the crankshaft. A wore distributor can cause a similar effect, but generally will be less dramatic and less likely especially if the vacuum advance is disconnected. The mechanical advance in the distributor should not have any effect on the test since the engine will be at idle speed only. I hope this information is helpful to you, have fun.
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If you dont have access to a timing light, take the distributor cap off. turn the crankshaft back untill the distributor rotor moves, then turn it forward untill it moves again. much more than an 1/8th turn or so is kinda sloppy.
as for the fuel pump, keep in mind that the tank is a looong way from the pump, and a mechanical pump wont pump very well with out being primed, my rv has a electric lift pump that is used just to pump the fuel up to the pump on the motor. I only turn on the electric pump if its been sitting for a little while and the fuel drains back a bit. so make sure you dont have a piggy back pump and if you don't it might be a good idea. when i first bought my rv i thought i had a issue and ran a electric pump right to a small 15 gallon tank just to get it home. when i got it to run, it was running for about 5 minutes and then it started spraying fuel every where. That was before i found the lift pump, so that shows how long it takes for a mechanical pump to get the fuel all the way from the tank to the motor....... or you could just have a bad pump haha, pull it off and but you thumb on the intake side and push the lever, it should suck your thumb to it and hold it for a bit. if it loses suction right away you could have a pin hole of small tear in the internal diaphragm.
Hope this helps! - Dan
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