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Old 07-12-2012, 01:53 PM   #981
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Just a wierd reflection, no water damage inside, dry as a bone!
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Old 07-13-2012, 08:07 AM   #982
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Originally Posted by Cubine View Post
Here's some pictures of our 1977 39' travel trailer that I restored and moved to our camping property. I bought it for $500 and dragged it home (lost one wheel on the way, no really, I lost it!). Parked it next to the house for about 4 months to gut and restore the inside and then towed it 100 miles north to our camping lot and did the outside (siding, metal roof, add deck, etc.).
Here's where it sat when I picked it up.

You did a really fantastic job on this trailer. It looks great. But where I came from it would be considered a park model, more a mobile home than a travel-trailer to go camping or traveling in. Again, great job and it looks beautiful. Warm and welcoming.
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Old 07-13-2012, 10:45 PM   #983
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It is nice to see there are alot of first time RV'ers. My wife Merry and I just purchased a new to us 1984 Sports Coach lll. The inside has been well taken care of but the out side needed a good cleaning and some paint. I will try to add some pictures and check out the good advice here in this web site. I will add that on the older rv's there is an air pump on the engine and ours froze up on the way home eating up the new belt. Lucky for us the temp was around minus 20 degrees and that helped keep us from over heating. We were just about home and so the tow was short.
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Old 07-14-2012, 08:39 AM   #984
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Thumbs up It can be fixed.

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Originally Posted by KWitzki View Post
.... I will add that on the older rv's there is an air pump on the engine and ours froze up on the way home eating up the new belt. Lucky for us the temp was around minus 20 degrees and that helped keep us from over heating. We were just about home and so the tow was short.
Hi and welcome to the forum! Our 1985 Titanic has an air pump and I was able to take it apart and refurbish it. They can also be removed, or the vanes taken off the impeller so you can use the same size belt and have a stock appearance, but don't tell Uncle Sam....
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Old 07-16-2012, 04:06 PM   #985
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Glenndolph: Yes. The PO put 16.5's back on it. Mine has the 360 2 bbl. 727 tranny too.
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Old 07-20-2012, 10:21 PM   #986
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Friendship village

[QUOTE=Frank P. Martin;480444]This picture was taken in fall of 2008 at Friendship Village Campground in Bedford, PA. My youngest son now owns it. The original paint was flaking so the pop-up has been repainted white. If you look at the door, you can see what the original color was as it wasn't repainted.

[/QUOTEgreat campsite ,my family stayed there a few weeks ago passing through the area and loved it !
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Old 07-21-2012, 06:26 AM   #987
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Couldnt tell if that was delamination or some kind of reflection.. The shadpws from the mirror and running light seem to indicate its a reflection
That looks a lot like my 1990 Mallard 28. I'm guessing it's on a P-30 Chevy chassis as the one's I've seen are. If so make sure to keep an eye on that master cylinder. They have an old school hydraulic master cylinder much like in a car or truck. It's enough to get everything stopped but, they work hard. The good news is they are cheap to replace. I replaced my master cylinder about two years ago with a rebuilt one. After the core exchange it cost me $27 bucks. Works good.

Also, if it is, I wouldn't be in a screaming wild hurry to replace the rear shocks. That chassis has an issue of the rivets pulling through on the rear upper shock mounts. Mine will just stay on there. It rides fine like it is.

You probably have 16x7.5 on that chassis. Those are getting hard to find and mostly come in a D weight rating. I went with 215 70 R16 size. If you go fatter that a 215 on the duals they will "kiss" and that's bad. The good news is they are common in an E weight rating which is safer and rides a little better. I bought Coopers, made in Texarkana, Arkansas.

That 454 and turbo 400 transmission is a good setup. But, It drinks a lot of gas and it all runs through a small fuel filter mounted on the right frame rail about halfway to the gas tank. I replace my filter about every two years, depending on how much I drive. It's probably the most common filter GM uses and can be bought in the Fram brand at Wallyworld for around 8 - 10 bucks. If you haven't yet, replace it. It takes five minutes and might save you a fuel pump. Also, I carry an extra set of high temp spark plug wires and a rotor button and cap for the distributor. It gets hot under there and it's a common failure on the P-30. If it starts to stumble under load it's often enough those parts. Rotor cap and button are pretty cheap. The high temp wires cost a bit.

I also have some experience with the electric fans on the radiator should you have a problem with that. They are pretty simple. I added a manual switch just to help out in heavy traffic in the summer or when a hill climb is coming. My cool down fans stopped working and I had to replace the "factory air switch". Remember that name. The thermal switch that turns the electric fans on and off from a measurement at the coolant is not called a thermal switch or anything else. It's called a factory air switch. If you go looking for anything else you'll never find it and the parts people at 100% of the parts places haven't got a clue. Trust me, it took me a couple of months to figure it out.

If you're blower motor at the dash quits, check the resistor. It's located under the hood, to the left, and mounted in the housing where you would expect it to be. There are two connections in that resistor that tend to wear through and short out. I had an intermittent blower fan, which sucks in the winter and you have no heat while driving. I pulled the resistor and examined it. Upon close inspection I saw that the two connections were shorting. I had some cheap epoxy from Harbor Freight on hand (I stock up when they have it on sale for a buck). I cut a sliver from an electrical tie, shoved it down in there between the short, trimmed the excess and put epoxy on it. Works perfectly.

Have fun. It's a good chassis.
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Old 07-21-2012, 06:09 PM   #988
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AC Question

I just added a new Coleman Mach lll AC unit on my RV and it blows cool air but it does not cool the front part of the RV like I think it should. I have left it on for several hours and the inside of the RV stays about 78 degrees. Is this normal or should it cool better? I believe I did everything correctly.
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Old 07-21-2012, 07:18 PM   #989
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What size and what hole? Is it just the one AC?

My Coleman Mach III, 13.5Kbtu, in the front hole, cools my 36' RV down to 72F on 95F days..
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Old 07-21-2012, 09:35 PM   #990
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AC Unit

It is in the front hole and is 13.5 also. Now I was using an extention cord that is about 75feet long and is real heavy duty. I might have to get a shorter cord and start the unit before it gets to hot inside. I sitll have the old unit. The previous owner said needed a new fan motor. Also the rear unit needs freion but will only run with the gen on.
I will try to add photos of the rig but it says my attachments use to much space.
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Old 07-21-2012, 11:10 PM   #991
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Photos Worked this time

OK! Now I think I know what I was doing wrong. I tried to add to many pictures at once. The first picture is the before and the second is the almost after photo. A trip to Lake Mcconaughy is planed to work out the bugs and then we hope to run the rig to Estes Park CO the first of Sept for a concert. I think there is suppose to be a few John Denver impersonators and my wife will enjoy that.
Thanks for all the help everyone has been. This is a great site for new RV'ers like me.
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Old 07-22-2012, 03:18 AM   #992
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Dont look much bigger than mine.. Should cool better. I have used a 50' 14ga cord and it cooled just fine.
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Old 07-22-2012, 05:03 AM   #993
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AC Unit

That is what I thought also Jim. I am going to have it looked at. I have a thermomerter and will check the temp of the air coming out of the unit. The dash unit does not work like most of the RV's this age and my wife is after me to get it fixed. I will get this figured out and let everyone know what I find. Maybe I did not have a good ground or something like that. Thanks for the come back on this issue Kim
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Old 07-22-2012, 05:53 AM   #994
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I just added a new Coleman Mach lll AC unit on my RV and it blows cool air but it does not cool the front part of the RV like I think it should. I have left it on for several hours and the inside of the RV stays about 78 degrees. Is this normal or should it cool better? I believe I did everything correctly.
I have heard that the newer AC units don't cool as well as the older ones. But, my opinion is, if it's enough BTUs, it should cool better than that. It could be the extension cord. 75 feet is a long way on an extension cord but, you said it was heavy duty. If the gauge is too light it's eating up your power. I have a 50 footer I use with my air compressor and the compressor doesn't do as well as it does just plugged into an outlet.

Coleman is a good brand. On my RV I still have the old AC unit and it cools real well, even in 100 degree heat. In my wife's dog grooming van I added a Carrier 15000 BTU roof AC unit. It does well in the grooming van but, I somehow don't think it would do as well in an RV. On a real hot day it doesn't seem to be able to chill down as well.

Measure the air coming out of the unit versus the temp in the RV. If there's not much difference then the AC unit might be bad. The roof AC unit probably needs something like a full 15 amps when the compressor kicks in. If it's not getting that it should trip a breaker but, the extension cord might be your problem. The draw on one end might not be whats coming out on the other.
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