Originally Posted by Midniteoyl
Couldnt tell if that was delamination or some kind of reflection.. The shadpws from the mirror and running light seem to indicate its a reflection
That looks a lot like my 1990 Mallard 28. I'm guessing it's on a P-30 Chevy chassis as the one's I've seen are. If so make sure to keep an eye on that master cylinder. They have an old school hydraulic master cylinder much like in a car or truck. It's enough to get everything stopped but, they work hard. The good news is they are cheap to replace. I replaced my master cylinder about two years ago with a rebuilt one. After the core exchange it cost me $27 bucks. Works good.
Also, if it is, I wouldn't be in a screaming wild hurry to replace the rear shocks. That chassis has an issue of the rivets pulling through on the rear upper shock mounts. Mine will just stay on there. It rides fine like it is.
You probably have 16x7.5 on that chassis. Those are getting hard to find and mostly come in a D weight rating. I went with 215 70 R16 size. If you go fatter that a 215 on the duals they will "kiss" and that's bad. The good news is they are common in an E weight rating which is safer and rides a little better. I bought Coopers, made in Texarkana, Arkansas.
That 454 and turbo 400 transmission is a good setup. But, It drinks a lot of gas and it all runs through a small fuel filter mounted on the right frame rail about halfway to the gas tank. I replace my filter about every two years, depending on how much I drive. It's probably the most common filter GM uses and can be bought in the Fram brand at Wallyworld for around 8 - 10 bucks. If you haven't yet, replace it. It takes five minutes and might save you a fuel pump. Also, I carry an extra set of high temp spark plug wires and a rotor button and cap for the distributor. It gets hot under there and it's a common failure on the P-30. If it starts to stumble under load it's often enough those parts. Rotor cap and button are pretty cheap. The high temp wires cost a bit.
I also have some experience with the electric fans on the radiator should you have a problem with that. They are pretty simple. I added a manual switch just to help out in heavy traffic in the summer or when a hill climb is coming. My cool down fans stopped working and I had to replace the "factory air switch". Remember that name. The thermal switch that turns the electric fans on and off from a measurement at the coolant is not called a thermal switch or anything else. It's called a factory air switch. If you go looking for anything else you'll never find it and the parts people at 100% of the parts places haven't got a clue. Trust me, it took me a couple of months to figure it out.
If you're blower motor at the dash quits, check the resistor. It's located under the hood, to the left, and mounted in the housing where you would expect it to be. There are two connections in that resistor that tend to wear through and short out. I had an intermittent blower fan, which sucks in the winter and you have no heat while driving. I pulled the resistor and examined it. Upon close inspection I saw that the two connections were shorting. I had some cheap epoxy from Harbor Freight on hand (I stock up when they have it on sale for a buck). I cut a sliver from an electrical tie, shoved it down in there between the short, trimmed the excess and put epoxy on it. Works perfectly.
Have fun. It's a good chassis.