Go Back   iRV2 Forums > iRV2.com COMMUNITY FORUMS > Vintage RV's
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 10-01-2016, 07:13 PM   #15
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Morris, IL.
Posts: 399
Originally Posted by BA-in-Mich View Post
My transmission cooler is in series with the cooler in the radiator. I installed it before the radiator and then it goes into the radiator to bring it to the temps that it needs to get to. I have a separate oil cooler on mine that is factory. I also use the 2 quart oil filter. I dont think you can add rows to the existing radiator. If your going to pull the radiator, recore it! It a PIA to pull and reinstall.
I was just reading that trans temps are best kept between 150-170 although 200 is quite common. I don't think mine is going to be all that hard to pull

1989 Champion LaSalle 34' 454 ci always doing something to it
Deano56 is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 10-01-2016, 09:03 PM   #16
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 14
I have had great luck buying an all aluminum, two or three row radiator, sold for racing guys, in three of my vintage dodge RVs. They're made in China, and cost about $250 or so, compared to maybe $150 for a standard replacement, but boys, they are so worth the money. If you have overheating problems, buy one of these things and put it in.

gdhillard is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-01-2016, 09:15 PM   #17
Senior Member
CJ7365's Avatar
Tiffin Owners Club
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Southern NM
Posts: 912
You said engine temp rise above 210, but you don't say how much above 210. I would think that if your engine is running a 220 all the time there is a problem.

When I had my 95 Brave with the 454, it ran at 200 all day long, and when climbing would rise at the most to 220. Not uncommon.

210 degrees is not bad for an engine.

As far as bypassing the radiator cooler, well to each there own, but a liquid to liquid cooler is far more efficient than an air to liquid cooler

On my brave, my trans would run normal at 170-180 and of course climbing would rise up to 210.

I was also pulling my CJ7 which is 3850 LBS.
2005 Tiffin Allegro Bay 37DB
W22 Workhorse Chassis 8.1
CJ7365 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 10-01-2016, 10:05 PM   #18
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 507
We got a '94 26' 454 powered Flair late last summer and after getting it home I noticed the radiator seeping a bit. As mentioned, and as you probably already know, it is (IMHO) a major PITA to get in there. I took the radiator to a shop I trust and had it tested, and following their advice had it re-cored because they couldn't find a new replacement. Because of the PITA factor I replaced all the hoses, belts, fan clutch, water pump, and everything else behind the radiator. I just put everything back the way it was when I took it off. At that time I also converted the AC to 134a.

This Summer we went on a 7k mile trip with it towing a Tracker and the cooling system worked great, running at around 190 most of the time and on a hill going up to about 220 where the fan clutch would engage and bring the temp back down.

Now I just have to get the dash airflow selector and cruise control fixed. Also, I have to get over only 7.5 mpg after being used to 14 mpg while towing the Tracker with our Dodge Cummins TC for many years

Best of luck with your cooling system repairs.

dix39 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-02-2016, 02:12 AM   #19
Senior Member
DeOrellana's Avatar
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Sweden
Posts: 317
Originally Posted by Deano56 View Post
what is optimum oil temperature for these big block chevys? Then we would need to talk about viscosity
You want an oil temperature above 105C / 220F degrees in order to vaporize any water vapor in the oil. Water in the oil will mix with the sulfur in the oil from combustion blow-by and create acids that will damage the bearings. Lower oil temperatures will also increase load on the engine.

If you're running a mineral oil you want to stay between the 105C / 220F mark and 120C / 250F mark sump temperature. It will start to break down around 135C / 275F. A synthetic can handle up to 150C / 300F.

Here's an interesting paper on it if you want to read more about oil thermal degradation: MDPI

As far as the viscosity, if you have a stock engine with minimal bearing wear use the recommended viscosity.
1989 Winnebago Elandan under "extreme" renovation
Renovation thread
DeOrellana is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-02-2016, 04:42 AM   #20
Senior Member
Franka548's Avatar
Retired Fire Service RVer's
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: N E Ohio
Posts: 2,672
If you want a little more pulling power out of your 454, install a high performance ignition modual and coil(like a MSD Blaster), and a K & N air filter, you would be surprised at the increase in power and mileage. By doing these and raising the base of the air cleaner between an 11/2" and 2" I gained between 1 and 1 1/2 MPG and 5 MPH pulling hills with a 2200# trailer with an Alero on it. This was on an '88 Southwind 28'. Doing these mods along with removing the air pump and headers should gain you even more. Don't forget to put an x pipe in the exhaust to help with flow and use high flow mufflers. Also use a 180* thermostat instead of the 192*.

03 Silverado cclb 3500 drw, D/A, Reese 22k hitch
07 Alfa SeeYa Gold 30RL,2 slides,power everything
Franka548 is offline   Reply With Quote


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Pulling Radiator jacwjames Cummins Engines 13 06-03-2015 07:43 AM
Change Rear Radiator to Side Radiator William Willard Monaco Owner's Forum 32 06-19-2012 05:24 AM
Side radiator vs. rear radiator 2InAlabama Class A Motorhome Discussions 14 01-10-2012 10:22 AM
Pulling carpet for hardwood SunflyerCRX Vintage RV's 12 01-03-2009 02:07 PM
"Pulling the Pin" DonnaB Toads and Motorhome Related Towing 4 12-01-2008 05:54 PM

» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Our Communities

Our communities encompass many different hobbies and interests, but each one is built on friendly, intelligent membership.

» More about our Communities

Automotive Communities

Our Automotive communities encompass many different makes and models. From U.S. domestics to European Saloons.

» More about our Automotive Communities

Marine Communities

Our Marine websites focus on Cruising and Sailing Vessels, including forums and the largest cruising Wiki project on the web today.

» More about our Marine Communities

Copyright 2002-2015 Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 10:14 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2016, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.