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Old 10-01-2016, 08:13 PM   #15
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My transmission cooler is in series with the cooler in the radiator. I installed it before the radiator and then it goes into the radiator to bring it to the temps that it needs to get to. I have a separate oil cooler on mine that is factory. I also use the 2 quart oil filter. I dont think you can add rows to the existing radiator. If your going to pull the radiator, recore it! It a PIA to pull and reinstall.
I was just reading that trans temps are best kept between 150-170 although 200 is quite common. I don't think mine is going to be all that hard to pull
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Old 10-01-2016, 10:03 PM   #16
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I have had great luck buying an all aluminum, two or three row radiator, sold for racing guys, in three of my vintage dodge RVs. They're made in China, and cost about $250 or so, compared to maybe $150 for a standard replacement, but boys, they are so worth the money. If you have overheating problems, buy one of these things and put it in.
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Old 10-01-2016, 10:15 PM   #17
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You said engine temp rise above 210, but you don't say how much above 210. I would think that if your engine is running a 220 all the time there is a problem.

When I had my 95 Brave with the 454, it ran at 200 all day long, and when climbing would rise at the most to 220. Not uncommon.

210 degrees is not bad for an engine.


As far as bypassing the radiator cooler, well to each there own, but a liquid to liquid cooler is far more efficient than an air to liquid cooler

On my brave, my trans would run normal at 170-180 and of course climbing would rise up to 210.

I was also pulling my CJ7 which is 3850 LBS.
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Old 10-01-2016, 11:05 PM   #18
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We got a '94 26' 454 powered Flair late last summer and after getting it home I noticed the radiator seeping a bit. As mentioned, and as you probably already know, it is (IMHO) a major PITA to get in there. I took the radiator to a shop I trust and had it tested, and following their advice had it re-cored because they couldn't find a new replacement. Because of the PITA factor I replaced all the hoses, belts, fan clutch, water pump, and everything else behind the radiator. I just put everything back the way it was when I took it off. At that time I also converted the AC to 134a.

This Summer we went on a 7k mile trip with it towing a Tracker and the cooling system worked great, running at around 190 most of the time and on a hill going up to about 220 where the fan clutch would engage and bring the temp back down.

Now I just have to get the dash airflow selector and cruise control fixed. Also, I have to get over only 7.5 mpg after being used to 14 mpg while towing the Tracker with our Dodge Cummins TC for many years

Best of luck with your cooling system repairs.

Steve
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Old 10-02-2016, 03:12 AM   #19
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what is optimum oil temperature for these big block chevys? Then we would need to talk about viscosity
You want an oil temperature above 105C / 220F degrees in order to vaporize any water vapor in the oil. Water in the oil will mix with the sulfur in the oil from combustion blow-by and create acids that will damage the bearings. Lower oil temperatures will also increase load on the engine.

If you're running a mineral oil you want to stay between the 105C / 220F mark and 120C / 250F mark sump temperature. It will start to break down around 135C / 275F. A synthetic can handle up to 150C / 300F.

Here's an interesting paper on it if you want to read more about oil thermal degradation: MDPI

As far as the viscosity, if you have a stock engine with minimal bearing wear use the recommended viscosity.
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Old 10-02-2016, 05:42 AM   #20
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Deano,
If you want a little more pulling power out of your 454, install a high performance ignition modual and coil(like a MSD Blaster), and a K & N air filter, you would be surprised at the increase in power and mileage. By doing these and raising the base of the air cleaner between an 11/2" and 2" I gained between 1 and 1 1/2 MPG and 5 MPH pulling hills with a 2200# trailer with an Alero on it. This was on an '88 Southwind 28'. Doing these mods along with removing the air pump and headers should gain you even more. Don't forget to put an x pipe in the exhaust to help with flow and use high flow mufflers. Also use a 180* thermostat instead of the 192*.
Frank
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Old 11-14-2016, 10:50 AM   #21
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Finally pulled the radiator, what a pain!! Pulled the water pump too and am installing new one along with all new hoses. I called a radiator shop to take it to a half hour from me and, when I pulled up I was surprised that he ran his business out of his shed behind the house for more than 40 years. He's 80 and still going at it. He looked at the radiator and said it definitely needs to be rodded out and, hopefully theres not alot of corrosion. He said it would be 200 unless he has to re-core it, then its 400. He also said it's three rows and no need to add a row once it's cleaned, something about running the water through too fast to cool. I thought the thermostat takes care of all that. I also order a good set of ceramic headers so, the air pumps are coming off and all that terrible clutter under there. Will have to get other belts for the changes
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Old 11-14-2016, 06:35 PM   #22
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Sounds like you got things under control Deano. When you put the headers on, put an X-pipe in and high flow mufflers.
Frank
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Old 11-15-2016, 08:05 PM   #23
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picked up the radiator today, he pulled one tank off and rodded it out, said it was pretty clogged, also re soldered everything. He said it is a four core radiator and gravity flows 10 gallons per minute. 220 bucks
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Old 11-16-2016, 07:50 AM   #24
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Deano,
Sounds like you are all set now, not a bad price for having the radiator rodded out and checked.
Frank
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Old 11-16-2016, 07:23 PM   #25
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Deano,
Sounds like you are all set now, not a bad price for having the radiator rodded out and checked.
Frank
well Napa got me nearly 60 bucks for the upper and lower radiator hoses, O'reilly had the same hoses for almost half that price, both are Gates. Pays to shop around. Yea I wasn't to surprised with his price, the only thing he didn't do was paint the thing, never seen that before. Couple bomb cans of black paint won't break me I guess.
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Old 11-17-2016, 07:27 AM   #26
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Deano,
You are right, I had a buddy that worked at NAPA and he always gave me a good price. But without that , I agree with you on shopping around for prices.
Frank
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Old 11-17-2016, 10:41 PM   #27
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anyone know what belt to use on the crank to fan to alternator with the air pump removed? This is the 6 rib belt, the one with the pump is 55.75"
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Old 11-18-2016, 02:07 PM   #28
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Try Goodyear # 4060525 / 6PK1335
I have it listed as water pump/alternator/crank, belt
If that doesn't work out let me know I'll see if I can see it on the belt. It's been quite a few years since I went that way. I had to remove 2 pumps and size down from there.
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