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Old 11-29-2013, 10:06 AM   #43
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This is true and is also part of the problem. On mine I have a third large fitting directly opposite the inlet that has a hose attached that extends the fill neck forward. Any radiator with a top fill is not going to work for me because there is NO clearance on top of the radiator. What this means is that the radiator will have to be specific to that application. If it were a copper radiator I could at least have the old tank with the needed fittings moved over to the new core. Aluminum radiators also have plastic tanks and these tend to be very problematic on vehicles that have high heat cycles like motorhomes have, the tanks come loose and burst away from the core. If anyone has a name of a supplier I would be glad to call them and see what they can do.
Do you think you could get it rebuilt or re cored ? not sure what they call it now a days. The guy that put in our air bags put the front filler in under the front engine cover and the rear ones he ran into one of the basement storage bins. You should be able to follow the lines. I am glad that you asked about the horns too mine are pretty weak I think they are electric I can follow the wires down into the batteries area then I lose them. I'm just going to replace with electric air and install in where the regular horns are. I am not sure if you saw another one of my posts but while removing the inter shroud to clean the filters on the AC units the front AC unit 2 bolts that secure to roof top one was ready to fall out and the other one I wrenched about 10 times to tighten. I double checked the rear unit and it too was lose but not as bad as the front unit. I count my blessings that the front unit didn't slide off the MH going down the HWY Are you having fun yet?? Keep telling yourself "Its worth it it will be so nice when we get done."
Any new pictures? I finally got my interior pictures downloaded on my PC but now can't remember how to upload them on iRV2
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Old 11-29-2013, 04:27 PM   #44
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I have not even taken a single picture of the water pump replacement fiasco. Too much blood everywhere, it would be R rated. I was a certified master mechanic for forty years until I retired from automotive work due to a bad back recently. This has to be one of the most tedious jobs ever! It is sort of like digging a tunnel from the grill towards the midsection. Once I got to the water pump I had to remove every single bracket and accessory pump just to get the water pump out. This would not normally be a big deal except I am sitting on the ground wedged up in front of the engine with my back against the crossmember. I am not really a small guy at 6'3" so there is not enough room to get my arms up between the frame rails at the same time. I have to drop one shoulder below the frame to get the opposite arm up and then wiggle the other up. THEN realize the tools I need are on the ground and have to reverse the whole process. Over and over and over! Oh, did I mention it is in the 20's and I do not have a barn to work in? Oh well, The pump is in and everything is back on the front of the engine. Tomorrow I will put on the fan and new fan clutch and the new belts and after that I am on hold trying to find a radiator. I have found several that say they fit but nobody can tell me if they have a front port for the fill tube and radiator cap. If they have a top fill on the tank I will have ti cut my radiator support and I am not sure I have enough room to fill it there because that is where all of the emissions garbage is bolted up.

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Old 12-01-2013, 06:50 PM   #45
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Well I got it all back together. I had to put the old radiator back in, I need this thing to be moveable. Now when it runs I am leaking gas badly from the top front of the gas tank, no leak when not running. I have seen reference to electric fuel pumps in the tank but since I have a mechanical pump in the stock location on the engine I just figured I would not have the electric. The only way it could leak where it is and only when running is if the gas is under pressure and I have a bad line. Do they all have redundant pumps?
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Old 12-01-2013, 07:59 PM   #46
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Actually your mechanical pump would be sucking gas from the tank. It will still leak fuel if the rubber flex hose is rotted or otherwise has a hole in it.
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Old 12-02-2013, 01:07 AM   #47
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Well I got it all back together. I had to put the old radiator back in, I need this thing to be moveable. Now when it runs I am leaking gas badly from the top front of the gas tank, no leak when not running. I have seen reference to electric fuel pumps in the tank but since I have a mechanical pump in the stock location on the engine I just figured I would not have the electric. The only way it could leak where it is and only when running is if the gas is under pressure and I have a bad line. Do they all have redundant pumps?
Yes they normally do. To far for the mechanical pump to pull the gas without it.
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Old 12-02-2013, 05:49 AM   #48
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Actually your mechanical pump would be sucking gas from the tank. It will still leak fuel if the rubber flex hose is rotted or otherwise has a hole in it.
John, it is true that it would still leak but it would leak after shutting down, as the fuel is running back to the tank it would leak out of the hole. In my case it is coming out under pressure while running. With just the stock pump that line would be in suction and would not leak while running because it would be pulling in air. Either way I have to figure out how to get to it. there is a sheet metal plate screwed to the side of the RV where the tank is. Would this be a normal thing? I am thinking this is the access to the tank but I don't know if it was stock or added in at a later date.

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Old 12-02-2013, 05:53 AM   #49
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Chuck, I was thinking along those lines. I could see some serious issues with that though. What if your stock mechanical pump went bad? The electric pump would pump gas past the torn diaphragm and into the crankcase!! Granted, you would see it coming out of the weep hole in the pump but if you were on a 400 mile trip and it happened near the beginning you would never know. Oh well, another project to get into finding how to get to those lines.

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Old 12-02-2013, 08:44 AM   #50
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Let's hope it is access plate.
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Old 12-02-2013, 02:03 PM   #51
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I just climbed around under it and there is NO access from there. If I take out the passenger side compartment I might be able to get a little above the tank but it does not look to easy to get that compartment out. I am in no position to drop an 85 gallon tank in my dirt driveway but I was wondering if you could just drop the front end enough to get to the lines? It will have to come down a fair amount to clear the frame rails. I figure if I can get away with leaving the rear attaching bolts in and just loosening them all the way I will not have to be balancing a tank, I can have a jack under on end.
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Old 12-02-2013, 02:39 PM   #52
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I dropped mine full on the front I had 2 jack stands with a 4 by 4 across them and a floor jack on the rear had to lower the rear less than a foot
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Old 12-02-2013, 03:06 PM   #53
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I dropped mine full on the front I had 2 jack stands with a 4 by 4 across them and a floor jack on the rear had to lower the rear less than a foot
So the rear had to come down some also? Jackstands and a board make me nervous, too easy for the mess to fall over. When you dropped the front was there enough play in the lines? I assume you had to disconnect the fill and vent tubes first though.
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Old 12-02-2013, 04:27 PM   #54
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Well I think I found a radiator. Rock auto has one listed that even mentions the front side inlet for the fill. 200.00 to my door. We will see.
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Old 12-03-2013, 04:09 AM   #55
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the front strap i just loosened the back i removed then lowered the rear just enough to get my hand in there
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Old 12-03-2013, 06:33 PM   #56
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Way back on post #10 I mentioned that I had called Winnebago about the roof construction and was told without hesitation that it was fiberglass. WELLLLLL, It is not, it is aluminum. I was up there tonight to cover the rear part where I know there is a leak due to some rain coming and I found it was very slippery, frost was forming on the roof. I thought that was strange since it was 36 degrees out and fiberglass does not lose heat like metal so I took a closer look and under the glare of a LED light I could see clear as day the metal shining through the missing painted areas. I am kind of glad to see that because aluminum is much tougher than fiberglass. My main question right now is this, how cold can it go before I cannot use Eternabond tape? I actually use a different brand I get from a local roofing company but it is the same exact stuff, a fair bit cheaper too. Not paying for the name which is associated with camping equipment saves money. Can I tape the seams between the roof and the sides and the front and rear caps? It looks like they were originally put together with a large gasket so they could move a bit.

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