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Old 12-12-2012, 11:43 AM   #29
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Got the documents from Wini for the unit... Might help others out as well...
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Wire Assembly - Chassis.PDF (116.7 KB, 22 views)
File Type: pdf Wire Assembly - Control Center.PDF (91.3 KB, 21 views)
File Type: pdf Wire Assembly - Instrument Panel.PDF (153.6 KB, 19 views)
File Type: pdf Wire Assembly - Roof.PDF (206.2 KB, 20 views)
File Type: pdf Wiring Diagram - Body.PDF (167.7 KB, 20 views)
File Type: pdf Wiring Installation - Body.PDF (649.4 KB, 20 views)
File Type: pdf Wiring Installation - Chassis.PDF (267.9 KB, 23 views)
File Type: pdf Wiring Installation - Front End.PDF (274.2 KB, 18 views)
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Old 12-12-2012, 06:35 PM   #30
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Ok, Step one is done. I wired in the new power panel, and traced all the wiring.

Man, I'm really not sure what the PO was thinking... First off the converter itself had that burned up switch inside of it. Next, He has the 2 main grounds wired together and taped off (not even connected to anything but themselves) no wonder there was no power!

So correctly wired and the RV came to life. All outlets, lights etc working. The schematics I posted above really came in handy.

The furnace etc even clicked (didn't fire it yet as I want to check it out first) Camping world offers a furnace check, where they clean everything and get it working for 145 bucks... sounds like a good deal to me... For now, I have on of those "Eden Pure" heaters in there and it's more than enough. It's what I'll use anytime I'm on "shore" power anyways.

Will work on the cluster tomorrow, since don't have the wired t10 sockets I'll have to work around that for a bit and get everything else working until they come via USPS. The LED lights I want to use to replace all the interior coach lighting are all on back order until the 28th. But I can make due with what's in there for now.

Another interesting thing... I guess the PO was trying to get the interior lights to work as bug lights? all the bulbs are the yellow type used for blinkers... of course most of the paint is burned off them cause they are not meant to be burned at full time lights... At first I thought the lens where burned but turned out the be the bulb stain.
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Old 12-13-2012, 08:45 AM   #31
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I'd check the furnace myself before I paid Camping World a dime. Open it up and check the burner assembly for mud daubers and wasp nests. That's usually what goes wrong. Make sure it's cleaned out good and try to fire it. Then, if you don't get fire, have it checked.
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Old 12-13-2012, 01:26 PM   #32
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I'd check the furnace myself before I paid Camping World a dime. Open it up and check the burner assembly for mud daubers and wasp nests. That's usually what goes wrong. Make sure it's cleaned out good and try to fire it. Then, if you don't get fire, have it checked.
I checked it pretty good. I just don't know enough about it to do anything with it. I think the blower should come on first, which it's not.

I know gauge on control panel says I have about over 1/4 tank of propane, and the Stove works. (oven does not, the pilot light works but turning up the oven does't do much else.)

Fuel gauge is now working. I temporarily wired up the blower motor also since the control unit for the heat/a/c is out. (unlike the PO, I actually used the correct wire and a fuse). Will order the new control and get it in asap.

Something has also gone wonky with the generator. It was just fine until the little wiring mishap now it will not turn over. So I'll have to trace that down and see what got hurt. I'm guessing a wire of course, or a popped fuse? Will just take a little searching..

I sleep in it for the first time tomorrow. Spent most of the day giving it a good bath, and steam cleaning the carpets etc. Looks pretty good in there. Smells clean.

Of course, another unit just appeared that I would actually rather redo, An 84 pace arrow 29' with the 6.2 diesel. Needing a head gaskets, tires and the interior is all missing... (I would want to upgrade anyways so saves me a lot of work) Guy wants 3k for it... I know I could get it cheaper. So I may put this unit back up for sale now that it's been all but sorted out and see about getting that one. I'm a diesel fan. I drive an 85 Merc wagon as my everyday car and am putting an om617 into a land rover right now so having the 6.2 would fit right in, plus with an added banks setup would be a decent ride getting quite a bit better MPG than the chieftain. Will play it by ear and see what happens. The chieftain is actually good for what I bought it for so either way.
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Old 12-14-2012, 01:24 AM   #33
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Furnice repair

Just a thought. Google RV furnice repair. Hopefully it will give you some tips on getting the furnice working. You tube should have a video on this. Hope this helps save you some money.
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Old 12-14-2012, 10:37 AM   #34
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You may want to think again about the GM 6.2 Diesel. It may be a real gutless wonder. This is the non-turbocharged version that evolved into the turbo 6.5. I put 137,000 miles on a 1995 6.5 in a Safari TREK, but it took two injection pumps and a new cylinder head after intake valve seat recession (and episodes of broken rocker arms & bent pushrod). The 6.5 is renowned for overheating and, after driving ours at whatever lower speed the temperature gauge required, I can't even think what reduced performance the non-turbo 6.2 would have. I think the motorhome manufacturers abandoned the 6.2 after a very short time...

However, if you just gotta do it, check out "The Diesel Pages" forum. Lots of very good information on the 6.2 and 6.5.

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...

Of course, another unit just appeared that I would actually rather redo, An 84 pace arrow 29' with the 6.2 diesel. Needing a head gaskets, tires and the interior is all missing... (I would want to upgrade anyways so saves me a lot of work) Guy wants 3k for it... I know I could get it cheaper. So I may put this unit back up for sale now that it's been all but sorted out and see about getting that one. I'm a diesel fan. I drive an 85 Merc wagon as my everyday car and am putting an om617 into a land rover right now so having the 6.2 would fit right in, plus with an added banks setup would be a decent ride getting quite a bit better MPG than the chieftain. Will play it by ear and see what happens. The chieftain is actually good for what I bought it for so either way.
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Old 12-16-2012, 07:36 PM   #35
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You may want to think again about the GM 6.2 Diesel. It may be a real gutless wonder. This is the non-turbocharged version that evolved into the turbo 6.5. I put 137,000 miles on a 1995 6.5 in a Safari TREK, but it took two injection pumps and a new cylinder head after intake valve seat recession (and episodes of broken rocker arms & bent pushrod). The 6.5 is renowned for overheating and, after driving ours at whatever lower speed the temperature gauge required, I can't even think what reduced performance the non-turbo 6.2 would have. I think the motorhome manufacturers abandoned the 6.2 after a very short time...

However, if you just gotta do it, check out "The Diesel Pages" forum. Lots of very good information on the 6.2 and 6.5.
True the 6.2 it gutless. The good thing about it it the fact it's a simple engine and cheap to work on. It was used in most military vehicles and there are tons of them around for almost nothing. The military versions also have a better IP and a few other goodies... Easy to put a banks turbo system on and get a more responsive engine. Course it's never going to be a race car My old 89 F350 had the 7.3 IDA... It was actually a pretty fast engine, until you pulled with it , But it would pull about anything. Just slowly! Again a turbo would have helped. Thing is, The crew cab (4 door) full sized full 1ton truck with a mild lift pulling a 7,000 pound load 2 thousand miles still averaged 18 mpg....
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Old 12-19-2012, 06:39 PM   #36
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Today I removed the furnace and took it down to "Camper World" They did bench test and confirmed that the blower motor is shot, plus it needs a new sail switch. To rebuild the unit is 400 bucks. (including painting it in high temp rusolium as per my request). Since they have to order the parts I'm looking like middle of next week to get it back. Also, I have a digital Themometer of the exact kind used in the "modmyRV" site. So going to do that mod and update the temp control.

One good thing is that the floor itself was solid. I was kind of worried due to that being near the leaking window.

Will be starting on the roof and windows this weekend.
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Old 12-20-2012, 09:26 AM   #37
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Whoa! I'd pay them for their diagnostics and buy the parts myself. That price sounds ridiculous. That's more than half the cost of a brand new furnace.

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Today I removed the furnace and took it down to "Camper World" They did bench test and confirmed that the blower motor is shot, plus it needs a new sail switch. To rebuild the unit is 400 bucks. (including painting it in high temp rusolium as per my request). Since they have to order the parts I'm looking like middle of next week to get it back. Also, I have a digital Themometer of the exact kind used in the "modmyRV" site. So going to do that mod and update the temp control.

One good thing is that the floor itself was solid. I was kind of worried due to that being near the leaking window.

Will be starting on the roof and windows this weekend.
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Old 12-20-2012, 07:34 PM   #38
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Whoa! I'd pay them for their diagnostics and buy the parts myself. That price sounds ridiculous. That's more than half the cost of a brand new furnace.

Ya, sounds like a lot to me too, no idea where I would find parts for it at this point. they have to get the parts from a couple different sources themselves. They said it needed a new blower and sail switch, I live only about 30 miles from the original manufacture of it. I have the manual for it. I guess a bulk of the price is the tear down and reassemble of the unit in hourly fees.

I too looked at just buying a new unit, but the same btu unit that matches mine was almost 900 bucks. I figure the rebuild it less than half and saving me 500 bucks.

I could always run over and get it and the parts before they do the work and try it myself, but I would still have to pay to have it bench tested again after so not sure that I Would be saving anything. At least this way I should get a working unit back in time to use it on Jan 4th when I'll be using it again for work and don't really feel like freezing my butt off
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