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Old 12-03-2012, 05:48 PM   #1
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Question thread for my new 84 chieftain 22'

These questions are about my newly acquired 1984 Chieftain 22' with a 454.

So, I brought the unit home today, 40 miles. First off I stopped by a gas station to check the old tires... they where all at 40 pounds, (suppose to be 80) front two badly bald. So took it to Wallymart, and got 2 new tires for the front, and had the rears filled correctly. Drives Much better now, but the steering is still way to loose,

So question #1, can I tighten up the steering?

With the wheels off, I checked the front brakes, looks like they had been replaced fairly recently. But I still think it should have more braking power, seems a little week. I have checked and topped of the brake fluid itself,

so #2 anything else I can do to improve the brakes?

I know I asked in another thread, but I know I need front shocks.

#3 On this unit could someone point me to the correct ones?

#4 the rear is going to need some help. The unit sits correctly, but it really drops when you step on the gas (bounces). Is there an affordable bagging system or do I add a leaf or shocks also??

#5 The RV has it's battery compartment right inside the side door. There are 2 batteries in there. Both are regular 900 amp car batteries. Which one should be a marine battery. They do seem to be tied together. I can get a picture tomorrow.

#6 When I turn on the Genset, the roof AC runs. I had assumed it also powered the interior lights etc. Same with plugging it in, which I also did. I had the lights on for a couple hours while I was pressure washing the RV and it all but killed both batteries. (this is while the rv was plugged in and the roof A/C running.) Do I need to switch something? I also noticed that none of my internal power outlet (110) seem to work and the Microwave will not power...

#7 I also power washed the roof and discovered it's all aluminum. There has been repair to the seams with some white stuff that has all but cracked and is totally worthless. Good news is that the roof is solid (I walked all over it) After I scrap away the white crap what do I use to reseal it? I heard of some tape or something plus I have also heard there is a product you roll on... links to the best price and product? I'll have to run the entire seam along both sides the front and the rear plus of course around anything mounted threw the roof itself like the A/C, vents Antenna etc.

#8 Tune up questions.... So the RV runs good, and idles good. Absolutely no smoke (but it's was a new crate engine in 2004 with 10k on it now) Still the carb etc is original I believe. Unit does seem a little under powered. Holds 60 fine and with current shocks I was not going to push it further) Wife followed and said that when I went down a large hill on the interstate (let off on the gas and basically engine braked) that it back fired on popped all the way down. There is a bad leak somewhere in the exhaust system and I did no hear it. So I'm thinking toss a set of plugs and wires along with a new rotor cap on it... stop me if I'm thinking wrong...

#9 Back to that Exhaust, This unit has dual pipes, one exits on each side... I'm thinking this was not factory. Is there an aftermarket replacement pipe or do I just take it to a local muffler shop and have them customize something? Right now it annoyingly loud in the cab with the engine running, sounds like a big old truck, scares small children when you start it...

#10 Fuel gauge does not work and is pegged to full.
#11 blower for heater and a/c in dash does not work. (which I need to fix for frost issues)

That about covers this round... I know I'll have more questions tomorrow once I really start cleaning the inside. I have to use the unit from Thursday to Monday living in it so the electrical stuff is the most important at the moment.

Thanks in advance for any and all help given to this total noob.
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Old 12-03-2012, 08:13 PM   #2
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Based on the Parts Book for your rig (http://www.winnebagoind.com/service/.../84wcn22rc.pdf), you should have an older Magnetek 32 amp 6300 Series Power Panel (PPS Legacy Products). You will find both AC and DC circuit Breakers in the top portion. The Magnetek Linear Converter is located in the base of the Power Panel. It does perform battery charging but this old style linear converter was bad about overcharging a battery. Either your coach battery is toast or the converter is not charging it.

Dave
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Old 12-04-2012, 05:43 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave78Chief View Post
Based on the Parts Book for your rig (http://www.winnebagoind.com/service/.../84wcn22rc.pdf), you should have an older Magnetek 32 amp 6300 Series Power Panel (PPS Legacy Products). You will find both AC and DC circuit Breakers in the top portion. The Magnetek Linear Converter is located in the base of the Power Panel. It does perform battery charging but this old style linear converter was bad about overcharging a battery. Either your coach battery is toast or the converter is not charging it.

Dave
I'm reading up over at RV Electrical Power for Dry Camping

For my needs I'll be using this unit to live in for 8-10 days a month (maybe more if we actually use it for some family camping on the side) It will also be our backup in case of power outage etc, which happens quite often. (In the future it would be cool if I could plug the RV into my house and run some basic stuff as a backup as well, but that's way down the road.)

So, I'm looking into a battery upgrade with the addition of a couple solar panels. I'll be converting the unit over to all LED lighting, inside and out. This will happen on my days off of course, But this month I have a stretch of over 2 weeks off for Xmas and should be able to get a lot done.

I'm not made of money (If I was I would not have bought an old 85 unit) so I'm going to be leaning toward good used equipment if at all possible. Hunting for newer totaled RV's locally that are being parted out and grab some of there parts where I can.

Any recommendation as to a good/reasonable replacement/upgraded power panel and charger? Is there one available with option control for the solar panels?

What about also adding an isolator so the Main starter battery is not getting drawn down? I have seen a few but they say the are for use with 1985 and newer GM alternators, my units is an 84... I guess I could upgrade the alternator but hate to cause it was bought new a year ago.

I really need a wire schematic of the coach. I have searched and a lot of others are looking for it as well, but I have not found one for download yet.
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Old 12-04-2012, 06:15 AM   #4
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Going from memory, my '83 Chieftain didn't have an isolator either. Instead, there was a switch to connect the engine battery to the coach system; which, as you say, would allow the engine battery to be drawn down by coach electrical load. I guess you were supposed to remember to turn the switch OFF after charging the coach batteries.

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...What about also adding an isolator so the Main starter battery is not getting drawn down? ....
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Old 12-04-2012, 09:07 AM   #5
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Ok, Been digging around the RV this morning and here are pictures....

Note the bottom mount of the ladder (it's loose and I'm betting there is damage to the wood there)

Yesterday I power washed the entire RV, washing at least 25 years of grime from it. Looks a LOT better.
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Old 12-04-2012, 09:14 AM   #6
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More....

Behind the fridge there are 3 wires disconnected, 2 white and one black, the black one goes to the connector plugged into the green unit of the first picture.

There is a wire disconnected on the genet. By the looks of the end, it would seem to have had a crimped end at one point. it fairly short

In the battery compartment, There is one wire disconnected. Not sure where it goes...
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Old 12-04-2012, 09:17 AM   #7
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And more....

Another shot of the wire in the battery compartment.

Mystery rocker switch by side door

Breaker box

Water damage to counter top and wall by window.
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Old 12-04-2012, 09:25 AM   #8
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And even more...

Under the rear bed, there is a metal tank (water heater tank?) It's been disconnected Or at least the hose to it cut off...

Control valve for rear heater, looks to have been leaking at some point, but only around the hose itself...

Mystery electronics I found new in the back in one of the drawers.

Surprise! The dash it totally crack free... the cover must have been on it all these years.

Fuel level in filter after sitting 24 hours.

2 disconnected hoses, I'm guessing to the rear water heater/ furnace?

Another mystery smaller disconnected hose
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Old 12-04-2012, 09:30 AM   #9
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Guess what? Even More.

red wire on frame rail, pass side, looks to have been caught in something and torn out...(fuel sending unit?)

Broke the overflow tank...

Lots of mystery wires...

Vac line I'm holding, goes to the little green vac port on the front of the engine in the next picture..

Basically, it looks like there are no vac lines attached to the carb at all.... Anyone got a good diagram for hooking it all back up?

Oh and the plug for the Alternator was not even plugged in!!! (plus it needs a belt really bad)

So, Off to the parts store for vac tube, wire connectors, an alternator belt and a badly needed air cleaner.
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Old 12-04-2012, 12:31 PM   #10
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Another question....

Would the unit charge the batteries if the alternator was unplugged? Cause mine was....
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Old 12-04-2012, 12:45 PM   #11
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Ok I answered one question for myself, The odd wire on my Onan looks to be one for an automatic choke that mine happens to be missing....

Mine...


Another I see on the net...



New Plugs, wires, rotor and cap are installed. Cleaned the engine and carb while I was at it and have new filters for it. Going to try and figure out the vac system for the carb next.
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Old 12-04-2012, 06:59 PM   #12
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OK, I found a downloadable manual for the P30

http://www.bdub.net/manuals/P30/P30.pdf
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Old 12-04-2012, 08:08 PM   #13
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Geeze, where to start?
The manual is a "Multi year Service Manual" but is not the official Manual. Official is a 3 volume set. You can also get it on CD ROM.
1984 CHEVROLET & GMC C/K 10-35 LIGHT DUTY, G & P SERIES Body, Chassis & Electrical Service Manual CD

That solinoid between the two batteries is the "Aux Start" relay. There should be a switch on the dash labeled "Aux Start" or possibly "MOM/DUAL/NORM" which is used to operate it. Used to cross connect the two batteries to either A) allow the coach battery to assist the chassis battery to start the engine and/or B) allow the alternator to charge the coach battery when engine is running. Older rigs like yours do not have the later model bells and whistles to operate the solinoid.

Need brand and model number of fridge to provide info/manual

What is model number of Onan Generator?

Is there a Emissions sticker on the valve cover with vacuum hose routing?

You will just have to work each issue one at a time. Determine the priority and then simply dig in. If "living in" is first priority, then the chassis stuff is last.

You can get 30 amp to 15 amp shore power plug adaptor at Walmart (RV portion of auto section) which allows you to hook the rig up to house.

Metal tank (aluminum) is backside of water heater. Looks like an Atwood DSI model.

I am not partial to Parralax converters. I would lean toward a Progressive Dynamics 4 stage upgrade (http://www.bestconverter.com/4600-se...its_c_133.html). Charges battery quickly and the float mode is great for reducing the chance of boiling a battery dry.

Dave
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Old 12-05-2012, 07:23 AM   #14
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Geeze, where to start?
The manual is a "Multi year Service Manual" but is not the official Manual. Official is a 3 volume set. You can also get it on CD ROM.
1984 CHEVROLET & GMC C/K 10-35 LIGHT DUTY, G & P SERIES Body, Chassis & Electrical Service Manual CD

That solinoid between the two batteries is the "Aux Start" relay. There should be a switch on the dash labeled "Aux Start" or possibly "MOM/DUAL/NORM" which is used to operate it. Used to cross connect the two batteries to either A) allow the coach battery to assist the chassis battery to start the engine and/or B) allow the alternator to charge the coach battery when engine is running. Older rigs like yours do not have the later model bells and whistles to operate the solinoid.

Need brand and model number of fridge to provide info/manual

What is model number of Onan Generator?

Is there a Emissions sticker on the valve cover with vacuum hose routing?

You will just have to work each issue one at a time. Determine the priority and then simply dig in. If "living in" is first priority, then the chassis stuff is last.

You can get 30 amp to 15 amp shore power plug adaptor at Walmart (RV portion of auto section) which allows you to hook the rig up to house.

Metal tank (aluminum) is backside of water heater. Looks like an Atwood DSI model.

I am not partial to Parralax converters. I would lean toward a Progressive Dynamics 4 stage upgrade (4600 series Upgrade Kits). Charges battery quickly and the float mode is great for reducing the chance of boiling a battery dry.

Dave
Thanks!

I read the entire General P30 Manual last night. Lots of good information in there. Your correct that it does not cover anything RV related (exempt examples of battery hookup and wiring)

My focus today is first, get the new alternator belt on, then figure out the vacuum lines. I need a way to test the system and see why it's not running the lights, microwave, etc when the unit is plugged in. Also going to check for an isolator now that I know what to look for.

I do have that rocker switch, the PO had it switched to dual all the time... from reading this sounds like what killed his first set of batteries.

I am a little confused. Should I have a separate battery for the engine that's not in the battery compartment by the side door (step) If so I have not found that yet.

I need to figure out what deep cells to buy also.

I start living it in Tomorrow (well after work friday morning) So I have a LOT to get done today. What I can't will be worked on between my shifts over the next few weeks, I'm then off for a couple a week and hope to have a bulk of it ironed out by then.

But today... I need Lights, Heat. (I have Heat from the overhead A/C unit, but I don't thing that will cut it, None of the internal outlets work so plugging a space heater in is not an option at the moment.
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