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Old 10-14-2014, 04:22 AM   #1
Winnebago Owners Club
Vintage RV Owners Club
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Radio fader potentiometer

Does anyone have any info on the specs for the front to back fader pot that is installed in early 90s Winnebagos? Mine has dead spots in it. This is not build into the radio but elsewhere on the dash.


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Old 10-14-2014, 06:45 AM   #2
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Likely an 8 ohm fader control which you can buy at Radio Shack.

You can also get De-Ox-IT gold at RS (aroudn 20 bucks for the gold pack) and spray down the connectors, operate teh control a few times, wait, then spray it with the other container and operate a few times, Might help,,,,, Or control cleaner. A "Goes-inta" (if you can find one) helps, this is a device that threads onto the outer (mounting) shaft after you remove the knob and directs the spray into the control.. May or may not help.

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Old 10-14-2014, 06:52 AM   #3
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You can probably spray it with contact cleaner and get it to recover. But if not, stereos in older motorhomes were not rated for more than about 15 watts, so if you can find a 20 watt L-pad, that should do it. (yes, they may claim a higher rating, but lying about car stereo power was common practice)
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Old 10-19-2014, 11:43 AM   #4
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not sure where it is located, but you can get different specs at a electrical supply, or just make sure it is making contact at every area around the terminals on the dial
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Old 10-19-2014, 12:53 PM   #5
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Have you pulled it out of the dashboard and looked at it? Most every electronic component I've ever had is imprinted with identifying specs. I'd think the potentiometer would be labeled with it's value too.

Bob & Donna
'98 Gulf Stream Sun Voyager DP being pushed by a '00 Beetle TDI
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Old 10-21-2014, 04:20 AM   #6
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Thanks for everyone's input. A summary of how I fixed this problem.

Pulled unit out of camper by cutting all six wires as it was soldered in. No identifying marks except "Japan". Unit was fully enclosed with holding tabs.

Opened up the unit and sprayed with contact cleaner and used a small brush to brush up everything. Reassembled and reinstalled testing first by twisting the cut wires together. Seems to have cleaned up all the static. Connected wires permanently by soldering and heat shrink tubing.

I think this would probably be a hard unit to find as it is a double differential pot. You are fading both R&L Front to Back. Anyway I didn't have to go looking.

I did not see any corrosion or anything that would have caused the problem but it was obviously there.

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