Red Max Pro #3 Question

[Brockx]

Originally Posted by debrey

How long does it take to dry ?

On a warm day you can go down a side, and repeat the apps as quick as you finish. My wife and I were doing a full side of a 33' MH in about 15 minutes then repeating.

[Senior Chief]

Originally Posted by debrey

How long does it take to dry ?

In warm weather and moderate humidity, it dries very quickly. By the time you get one coat on both sides, the first stuff you applied is already dry, so you can start the second coat right away.

Remember, use VERY thin coats (similar to wiping off dust with a damp rag) and it takes 5 coats or so the first time you use it. Refresh once a year with one (or two) new coats.

[Dunner]

If you are looking for time wise, when I did my counter tops, I re-coated within 5 minutes.

[truck91]

Originally Posted by Dunner

If you are looking for time wise, when I did my counter tops, I re-coated within 5 minutes.

i have used some kind of jell coat wax on mine that did not work, do i need to get it off before putting the floor wax on? also do you do the painted part to.

[Dunner]

I did the rear door on my toy hauler and it looked ok, except the protruding screw heads caused runs. I used full strength stripper to get it off without damaging the paint.

I think if you used TPS and Bar Keepers Friend, it should work. Try it in an inconspicuous area.

[JiminJersey]

Originally Posted by truck91

i have used some kind of jell coat wax on mine that did not work, do i need to get it off before putting the floor wax on?

That would be advisable - the 'cleaner' your base material is, the better the RMP will adhere, and the better it will look. You can probably buff the wax off with any decent rubbing compound.

Originally Posted by truck91

also do you do the painted part to.

You can do painted areas, but I'd test it first - everybody's paint is different. I would NOT use it on a clear-coated automotive type finish, though. RMP appears to be best on a fiberglass or plain aluminum base.

Oh, and don't call RMP a 'floor wax'. It's not a wax, it's an acrylic finish, almost like liquid plastic, rather than a wax product like carnuba or beeswax.

Good luck and post pix when done.

[Wanabee FTer]

Originally Posted by truck91

i have used some kind of jell coat wax on mine that did not work, do i need to get it off before putting the floor wax on? also do you do the painted part to.

I used soft scrub with bleach and a soft scrubbing pad to remove my wax. That was 5 months ago and ZEP HTFP still looks as good as the day I put it on.

I would leave the wax on the painted area and skip sealing it.

[truck91]

Originally Posted by Wanabee FTer

I used soft scrub with bleach and a soft scrubbing pad to remove my wax. That was 5 months ago and ZEP HTFP still looks as good as the day I put it on.

I would leave the wax on the painted area and skip sealing it.

thanks alot may try taking off wax on paint on small spot and see what it looks like.

[NLPRacing]

Originally Posted by truck91

thanks alot may try taking off wax on paint on small spot and see what it looks like.

When I did mine, I put it on the painted parts and it looks great.

[truck91]

Originally Posted by NLPRacing

When I did mine, I put it on the painted parts and it looks great.

i used bkf to clean all wax off and i have got 3 coats of zip wet look on one side and i cant beleave how good it looks !

[jofo777]

If you are concerned about slipping on the roof, you could always put some non-skid in the second or third coating to get traction.

I worry about the UV resistance on the RedMaxPro and Zep products. What about a good quality equipment paint to seal it up. With the oxidation going on it should grab very well.

I need to do something as it keeps streaking the sides of the coach when it get wet. Joe

[BFlinn181]

Originally Posted by jofo777

If you are concerned about slipping on the roof, you could always put some non-skid in the second or third coating to get traction.

I worry about the UV resistance on the RedMaxPro and Zep products. What about a good quality equipment paint to seal it up. With the oxidation going on it should grab very well.

I need to do something as it keeps streaking the sides of the coach when it get wet. Joe

I've seen reports that after 2 years there is still no yellowing or breaking down of the sealant properties. I would imagine a yearly renewal will keep it looking good for a long time. That, the cost, added to the ease of application makes it great in my eyes.

[Dmk960]

Originally Posted by Senior Chief

Its a powder you dissolve in hot water, like Spic 'n Span. I would use a white Scotchbrite pad, but that would depend on how grungy your surface is; a sponge might be enough. There is a sodium-free version of TSP (in fact, original TSP is getting harder and harder to find) which seems to work just as well for cleaning.

Use gloves; its strong! Its a mild paint remover/deglosser, so don't get it on any finished surfaces you care about. It won't hurt the fiberglass, or your stripes & decals.

Personally, I found the Bar Keepers Friend to be superior to TSP in cleaning the winter's layer of black gunk off our motorhome.

My concern is your comment on Getting the TSP on any finished surface? How do you wash the rig without getting this stuff on finished surfaces? My compartments are below the fiberglass surface I want to get back in shape?

Thanks for the feedback!

[BFlinn181]

Originally Posted by Dmk960

My concern is your comment on Getting the TSP on any finished surface? How do you wash the rig without getting this stuff on finished surfaces? My compartments are below the fiberglass surface I want to get back in shape?

Thanks for the feedback!

I wouldn't get it on varnished wood, but it will strip the wax off paint but shouldn't harm painted or clear coated surfaces. I put the RMP#3 on the fiberglass, paint, decals, plastic mirrors and covers, it looks good.