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Old 11-21-2012, 05:51 AM   #533
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The clear coat on my 89 Winnie Chieftain is peeling pretty badly on almost all my bay doors. Do you think the RMP3 will make those look better, or should I repair the clear coat first, then apply the RMP?
It is going to continue to peel no matter what you put on it, the un-coated areas will look good with the RedMax/ZEP. Some have said they had good results by power washing the clear coat off, worth a try on a couple doors.
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Old 11-21-2012, 07:20 AM   #534
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I would give it a good scrubbing to remove any loose clear coat. It will then take 3-4 coats of Red Max. Others may other suggestions.
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Old 01-10-2013, 07:02 AM   #535
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You don't need the handle. This is what I used:

Non-Scratch Scrub Sponge (3-Pack)-MP-3-12-CC at The Home Depot
As I'm ready to do this project, one last question. Do I use the sponge side of the scrubbie with the bar keepers or do I use the rough side of the scrubbie?
Thanks for the help!
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Old 01-10-2013, 09:49 AM   #536
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the smooth side. You can get scratch marks on the gel coat but it will not show after the product is wiped on. I did not use the pads shown but no reason to use the rough surface. I did use the pads on the above post to wash our alpenlite with dawn soap more than 2 times to remove any wax plus a narrow brush to get in any grove or areas around doors to remove wax from years of more than 2 wax jobs each summer.
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Old 01-11-2013, 01:13 PM   #537
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Red Max Pro#3

I put Red Max Pro #3 on my 1999 Tropical and it looks great. I only hope that it will not turn yellow or give me any problems. It made our MH look like new on the outside.
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Old 01-25-2013, 06:38 AM   #538
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Just finished Zep HTFF application. Overall looks great but one problem that I could not get away from was smearing of partially dried Zep. This stuff gets tacky so fast it is almost impossible to get down move the ladder and start back without having the Zep get tacky!
I applied it inside in dry winter weather which probably makes it set up faster. I would appreciate any ideas? I considered thinning it with some water so that it would stay wet longer?
Leaving on a trip Sunday so would like to put the final coat on before I leave.
Thanks
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Old 01-25-2013, 07:42 AM   #539
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Was it cold?
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Old 01-25-2013, 09:26 AM   #540
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Heated to around 60-65
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Old 01-25-2013, 09:31 AM   #541
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The only bad spots are where it gets "smeared". Rest is great. Smeared spots only appear where I bump into Tacky Zep. Just can't move fast enough. Sometimes it gets tacky in 30 seconds!
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Old 01-25-2013, 09:37 AM   #542
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I can't think yu could get the product any thinner but I used red max pro #3. I want to add on our green decals I get some flaking of the product. Just the dark green but I had some bleeding when washing with the bar keepers friend 2 years ago. I will work on the green and apply the product again. I did this last summer but same problem came back. I am very happy how it looks and will be 2 years in July when I applied it.
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Old 01-25-2013, 09:37 AM   #543
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rssnape View Post
The only bad spots are where it gets "smeared". Rest is great. Smeared spots only appear where I bump into Tacky Zep. Just can't move fast enough. Sometimes it gets tacky in 30 seconds!


Move slower, give it some time to dry. Back when I did mine it was ~75-80F and the section I just did was dry by the time I moved the ladder. Came out great.
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Old 01-25-2013, 11:27 AM   #544
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2nd coat should go better.. As said, you can let it dry and overlap.
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Old 01-25-2013, 12:14 PM   #545
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I have 4-5 coats on now. From a distance it looks great. Up close you can see the smears. Wish I had 80 percent humidity.
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Old 01-25-2013, 12:16 PM   #546
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So with these 4 and 5 coats should I just try to cover up the smears only?
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