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Old 01-25-2013, 05:12 PM   #547
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Try it in a hidden spot and see.. Just dont do like painting and 'back brush' or 'feather' it.. just wipe down the 'smears' once and let it dry.
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Old 01-25-2013, 09:15 PM   #548
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rssnape View Post
So with these 4 and 5 coats should I just try to cover up the smears only?
I never had that problem applying the Red Max Pro. I would not just try to cover smears, I would just keep applying over everything evenly. Remember, thins coats are the secret to this. That's why I just used a spray bottle and a long handled mop.
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Old 01-27-2013, 02:16 PM   #549
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Looks like I have a new project to do when I get home.
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Old 03-01-2013, 07:02 PM   #550
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Here is a million dollar question folks I have purchased all my product to do my 1990 26 ft Leisure Craft class C but I can't figure out if I should proflex the windows and corner seals before or after I do the treatment????? And words of advice
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Old 03-02-2013, 10:20 AM   #551
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Here is a million dollar question folks I have purchased all my product to do my 1990 26 ft Leisure Craft class C but I can't figure out if I should proflex the windows and corner seals before or after I do the treatment????? And words of advice
Probably doesn't matter that much - but if it were me I would do it before - just to insure that the proflex has best surface to adhere to.
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Old 03-02-2013, 11:39 AM   #552
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That was originally my thoughts as well ill be sure to post before and after pics as I'm sure the transformation will be awesome I was thinking about painting front plastic air dam, moulded fiberglass running boards as well as the plastic rear wheel fairing. My guess is possibly a " krylon" plastic paint as it has some stretch to it as I know these parts move a bit with travel.
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Old 03-02-2013, 12:06 PM   #553
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Mitch, I did the bumpers on my Volvo 240 about 8 years ago with SEM plastic paint and they still look great. The key, as with almost anything is preparation, use their prep sprays and take your time.

Sounds like you have a great plan, I look forward to seeing the results.
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Old 03-02-2013, 12:31 PM   #554
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Thanks for that Dave I am lucky I have a solid base for my project I just like the quality of the early 90s coaches and can't help but nearly drive off the road when I see a great looking vintage coach coming my way on the highway. It's gotten so bad my 7 yr old daughter is pointing them out before I do!! Lol almost brings a tear to my eye in excitement. I hope to be done all my upgrades by the first week of may so ill will post all pics
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Old 03-03-2013, 06:33 PM   #555
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I put RMP3 on at 90f and 15% humidity. There was no smearing. By the time I dampened my cloth again, the previous application was already dry. The mistake I did make is, there was blowing dust and it got caught in the finish just like painting a car in a dusty area. Almost 2 yrs now and it still looks great.
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Old 03-06-2013, 02:00 PM   #556
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Anyone know the minimum temperature I can apply zep at?
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Old 03-06-2013, 02:24 PM   #557
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As this stuff is designed for interior floors, I would hesitate at anything below 50 because of temperature and drying issues.
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Old 03-07-2013, 02:06 AM   #558
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No min or max temp on label. It does say not to use fans to help dry as it needs a cure dry time. There is a phone # to ZEP tech support on the bottle.
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Old 03-28-2013, 04:21 PM   #559
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Before and after pics a bit of work but so worth it!! The first 2 are before the second 2 are after
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Old 03-28-2013, 04:38 PM   #560
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Its not as much work as polishing and waxing. Once you do the initial prep and apply 5 coats. All you have to do is refresh it with one coat a year.
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