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Old 05-27-2013, 10:03 PM   #575
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Today I found spots on the front cap that is flaking. Front cap always gets hit with desert sun even if rig is in my barn. No door on one end of the barn. SOOO maybe 2 years is the limit if out in the sun. Going to strip only front cap and recoat. Sides do not show flaking yet.
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Old 05-28-2013, 06:40 PM   #576
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Originally Posted by oldbeek View Post
Today I found spots on the front cap that is flaking. Front cap always gets hit with desert sun even if rig is in my barn. No door on one end of the barn. SOOO maybe 2 years is the limit if out in the sun. Going to strip only front cap and recoat. Sides do not show flaking yet.
How involved is the "stripping" process? Messy, sticky, involved, ??
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Old 05-28-2013, 06:58 PM   #577
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How involved is the "stripping" process? Messy, sticky, involved, ??
Buy the stripper (ZEP HEAVY DUTY STRIPPER™).
Put on with a white scrubbie.
Scrub gently.
Rinse.
Look ok? You're done.
Not ok? Repeat.
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Old 07-05-2013, 04:20 PM   #578
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Red Max Pro 3 floor sealant

Red Max Pro 3 floor sealant ....
There are several articles on using Red Max Pro 3 floor sealant from Lowes on dull RV paintwork, and we had the honor of watching Pancake Bill working hard on his coach in Yellowstone last fall (we did shout occasional encouragement though as we popped another beer...).

We finally got round to getting the ingredients last week to do the job on our 2000 Adventurer which is badly oxydized. The decals also need replacement which we're considering doing early next year.

Red Max Pro 3 is not available any more from Lowes (certainly not anywhere in AZ) so we found that Home Depot have it listed as Zep Wet Look Floor Finish. This is exactly the same product, simply re-badged. See
http://tinyurl.com/7ktf964

I came across an article which I'm reproducing here with thanks to the author. I have however replaced his references to Red Max Pro 3 with Zep Wet Look Floor Finish (ZWLFF). The process is working just great for us - we've done a trial one-third of the right side between the rear corner and the awning support leg, and it's already looking great. We'll finish the rest of the coach this week.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
This process is for older RVs that have lost their shine and no longer respond to conventional wax.

Restoring the finish of an older RV using ZWLFF:

Materials:
-Zep Wet Look Floor finish (Step 3) (available at Home Depot)
-Bar Keeper’s Friend (powdered)
-TSP (Trisodium Phosphate, powdered)
-3M scrubbies (white, fine)
-Microfiber rags (white or laundered)
-Latex gloves

Preparing the surface is the most important part, since anything left on the surface will be sealed under the ZWLFF acrylic coating, and improper prep can also result in peeling/flaking later. I repeat: The prep-work is the most important part! Do not try to cut corners here. The cleaner your RV is, the better your final results will be.

Step 1: Start by washing your RV well as you normally would, making sure to include the roof, and rinsing well from the top down.

Step 2: You now want to remove any and all stains, soiling, oxidation, and chalkiness from the surface. Dip a white 3M scrubbie into water and then liberally sprinkle Bar Keeper’s Friend (BKF) on it. Scrub the surface of the motorhome, rinsing the scrubbie and re-applying the BKF often. Do small areas at a time, rinsing well with water and a sponge as you go (Rinsing well is important to remove all BKF residue. I used a "flow-thru" brush attached to a hose to rinse the BKF residue thoroughly).

Step 3: Next you want to make sure that there is absolutely no remaining wax on the RV, since any residual wax can cause the ZWLFF to peel and flake. Mix up a bucket of TSP (1/2 cup) in water (2 gal), and use it to wash the entire RV again. You can use it with a carwash brush, a sponge, a pressure washer…anything you would normally use to wash your RV. Rinse well as you go, then rinse again and let it dry completely (again, rinsing well is important to remove all TSP residue). You should now be left with a clean and smooth (although dull) wax-free surface. Congrats, the hard part is done!

Step 4: Now comes the easy part. Shake the ZWLFF well, and pour some into a shallow container (a pie pan works well). Fold a microfiber rag to about hand-sized, dip it into the ZWLFF (trust me, use gloves!), and squeeze out the excess. How much/how wet? You want it more than damp, but less than dripping. Now simply wipe down the surface of the RV with the wet microfiber rag. Don’t try to apply a heavy coat or try to “rub it in”; just wet the surface (imagine wiping off a layer of dust with a damp rag). It really doesn’t matter whether you wipe horizontally, vertically, or in circles, and don’t worry about overlaps; ZWLFF is very thin/watery and you are just trying to “moisten” the surface. Work your way all the way around the RV. The thin coat of ZWLFF will dry very quickly; long before you’ve gone all the way around it will be dry and you can immediately start on the next coat.

That first coat will likely look really bad; streaky, blotchy, shiny in some places, dull in others…don’t panic. Each additional coat will start to even it out and build up a deep layer of shine. By coat 3, you will be grinning ear to ear. And coat 4 (or 5?) will be the icing on the cake. Not only will your RV shine like it hasn’t shined in years, it will be a deeper color as well*. Even old, faded graphics will have a new lease on life! All for less than $30 total!

*Note: This procedure will slightly change/darken the color/shade of your RV.

Things (I learned) to keep in mind:

-Don’t use new colored microfiber rags until they have been laundered, as the color may bleed.

-Don’t try to “over-apply”, or try for a heavy coat, or you will get runs. The thinner, the better. Remember, you’re just trying to “moisten” the surface with each thin coat, nothing more. If you are getting a lot of runs, you’re applying it too heavily.

-Be careful around window frames, locks, latches, etc., as the ZWLFF is very watery and will have a tendency to gather and cause runs. ZWLFF dries fast, so keep an eye out for any runs and give them a quick wipe before they start to “set up”.

-Some older, deteriorated graphics may “bleed” color onto the rag and surrounding areas. If you notice any bleeding during the BKF or TSP stage (steps 2 and 3), then give a quick wipe of ZWLFF across the graphics prior to step 4, which will seal them up. Then go ahead and apply the ZWLFF to the entire RV (including the now sealed graphics) as per step 4 of the tutorial.

-After each coat, go around and open/operate all hatches, locks, catches, etc. The ZWLFF acrylic coating can sort of “glue” them closed.

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Old 07-05-2013, 04:51 PM   #579
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I have some long term results using both Red Max and PoliGlo. Two years ago I bought PoliGlo and followed the directions and installed it on my front and rear cap. After reading about Red Max I bought some from Lowes. Since I had just finished the front & rear caps which is what I bought it for I applied PoliGlo and Red Max on the tail lights of my truck (1998) since they were showing their age, I applied Red Max on the left tail light and PoliGlo on the right. There was no difference in the appearance. Both products made the lights look new and shinny. Now two years later the right tail light still looks shinny with some fading, but the left tail light is flaky looking. The PoliGlo has held up much better under the some conditions and same exposure to the sun. If I wanted to redo the lights I would have to polish off the Red Max on the left tail light before reapplying where on the right tail light I could just recoat with PoliGlo.
The front and rear caps on my MH still look nice also with the PoliGlo. I know the PoliGlo costs more but it is my experience that PoliGlo works better.
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Old 07-17-2013, 08:18 PM   #580
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wow

wow just finished 42 pages and at least 20 links to pages im wiped out.
im so glad i found this forum and the wonderful people that take time to post . i just bought a 1996 Thor residency and will be flying out next week to pick it up.i was going to go and clean polish and wax put after reading all this i will be going the zep way thank you all for the info...: thumb:
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Old 08-03-2013, 04:04 PM   #581
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I decided this is the best way for me. Wal-Mart sells favored water for 68 cent a bottle. It is a tough plastic bottle. Drink the water and rinse out and dry. Do the same on a 2nd bottle. Pour the product you are using in the clean bottle. Take the cap and drill a small hole in it. Now turn the bottle over and spill into the micro cloth. when done for the day use the 2nd bottle cap to save what is left in the 1st bottle. This worked better for me than the spray bottle I bragged about earlier.

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+10 on this - best possible application method. Its very clean.
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Old 08-03-2013, 07:53 PM   #582
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Lol that hole in the water bottle trick coulda saved me 400 bucks, my poor glasses were so speckled I had to go buy new ones!! But everyone comments how good my rig looks....... Worth every penny!!!!
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Old 08-04-2013, 02:20 AM   #583
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When RMP-3 went away at Lowes 2 years ago, I called ZEP and asked to talk to a Tech. The tech said that ZEP high traffic is the exact replacement for RMP-3. After many users saying ZEP wet look is the same as RMP-3, I again called and asked to talk to a senior technician. AGAIN he said the exact replacement is ZEP high traffic. It has more solids than wet look and wet look improves with buffing. High traffic needs no buffing.
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Old 08-04-2013, 09:02 AM   #584
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Lol that hole in the water bottle trick coulda saved me 400 bucks, my poor glasses were so speckled I had to go buy new ones!! But everyone comments how good my rig looks....... Worth every penny!!!!
I've found that ammonia works as a cleaner to remove RM#3 (or Zep) from glass or glasses. I can see clearly now!
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Old 08-04-2013, 08:28 PM   #585
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Started....

Endcap last weekend, front cap, front end and first segment (4ft) on both sides today. I am very happy with the results, and I will hope that the longevity is as claimed. Scary for me, something that gives such great results without a ridiculous amount of work is not the norm! But I will have faith

The earlier Nationals, mine a 97 Dolphin, just look horrible as they fade and oxidize. The ugly blue lower quarters actually look fantastic with a "Better than new" shine. My original intent was to just do the blue, but now will seal the whole unit. Thats a lot of prep on a 36'er, but, just have to focus on the end result.

Thanks for all the input!
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Old 08-06-2013, 03:36 PM   #586
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Will it work the same on an aluminum sided MH as it does on fiberglass?
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Old 08-06-2013, 04:19 PM   #587
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I think it says: "Not for painted surfaces", but who am I to listen. I put 5+ coats on my gloss black trailer tongue and areas turned flaky and whitish with the summer heat. Gotta Scotch bright it and re-paint.
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Old 08-06-2013, 06:19 PM   #588
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I did the cab of my rig and it turned out amazing so I tried on a very badly oxidized Mazda miata which I wet sanded then zep'd over top the thing looks amazing!!
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