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Old 05-13-2014, 04:18 PM   #645
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I am disappointed with our result because of the extra work I did for the preparation of the red max. I kinda wonder if redoing it the 2nd year was a mistake.. I am almost done removing it from both sides. As I said earlier the front and back look good. Maybe next summer for them. I finally learned how the best method for me to remove the red max was using the Zep stripper. Instruction on the bottle didn't help as they were for a flat surface.

chevman
Can you describe your removal method? Straight stripper? 50/50? Rags? etc?
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Old 05-13-2014, 05:28 PM   #646
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After reading the instruction about using one gallon of hot water and 8 ounces of the stripper I started the job using the brush like washing the fifth wheel and doing a small area and using hot water from the garage thinking it would help. I was not liking what I saw.

I then used cold water for rinsing thinkin the hot water was setting the red max and not rinsing. Not good enough so changed to a dobie like dish washing and no long handled brush. Better but very slow and many times over and over. This was the side that flaked off the most during the Arizona winter. Finally it is removed but the other side was almost the complete side to be removed.

Now a new plan. 16 ounces in a fat gallon of hot water to washing a small area from top to bottom and wait to see the yellow (old red max turns yellow) appear and then straight stripper using rubber gloves and a dobie or similar pad to rub on soak for a very short tine before drying. Then blast the are with water. I used a plastic paint scraper to remove the thick yellow build up in the beginning. After doing the complete side I waited for it to dry and then easy to see the placed that needed more work. Some area were wrinkled looking. The work was not hard and seeing progress was great. Now after spotting the areas and waiting to see how it looks I have 34 pieces of blue masking tape to see where work is needed.

One thing that seemed to be best was no sun and cool temperature's. First side was done after the sun went around to the West but the walls were warm. I have a wife with health issues and will be nursing her and the alpenlite is put on hold. I can talk better than explain on forums my thoughts. Come back if needed.

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Old 05-13-2014, 06:19 PM   #647
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It's a shame that some of us are having difficulties with RMP now - but as noted, mine still looked decent. In the interests of Science, I decided to strip the Bounder down and re-apply to see what I get. I did a wash on Sunday top to bottom and then spent 5 hours yesterday stripping the front and passenger side - I just used 50/50 Zep stripper and water, a blue MF rag, and a green sponge to buff off. Let the stripper work for a minute or so, hit it with the rough sponge and then rinse the hell out of it. I could see where the RMP was coming off, but mine never looked yellow - white as the day it went on.

It appears that there may be some variability with regards to MH age, color, and so on. It might be interesting to hear from any one else who's done, like me, a 25 year old all-fiberglass bus with fairly faded paint, versus someone with just a 10 to 15 year old RV that may have a completely different formulation somehow. And surroundings obviously play a part. We don't have the scorching sun over here in Jersey, but we do have the humidity and some pretty nasty acid rain. Hell, I live within 30 miles of about sixteen oil refineries, a dozen chemical plants, and fertilizer dust is all over this area as well. Maybe all that crap in the air toughens it up?..lol Pictures will follow as I progress.
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Old 05-13-2014, 09:12 PM   #648
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry Barnhart View Post
After reading the instruction about using one gallon of hot water and 8 ounces of the stripper I started the job using the brush like washing the fifth wheel and doing a small area and using hot water from the garage thinking it would help. I was not liking what I saw.

I then used cold water for rinsing thinkin the hot water was setting the red max and not rinsing. Not good enough so changed to a dobie like dish washing and no long handled brush. Better but very slow and many times over and over. This was the side that flaked off the most during the Arizona winter. Finally it is removed but the other side was almost the complete side to be removed.

Now a new plan. 16 ounces in a fat gallon of hot water to washing a small area from top to bottom and wait to see the yellow (old red max turns yellow) appear and then straight stripper using rubber gloves and a dobie or similar pad to rub on soak for a very short tine before drying. Then blast the are with water. I used a plastic paint scraper to remove the thick yellow build up in the beginning. After doing the complete side I waited for it to dry and then easy to see the placed that needed more work. Some area were wrinkled looking. The work was not hard and seeing progress was great. Now after spotting the areas and waiting to see how it looks I have 34 pieces of blue masking tape to see where work is needed.

One thing that seemed to be best was no sun and cool temperature's. First side was done after the sun went around to the West but the walls were warm. I have a wife with health issues and will be nursing her and the alpenlite is put on hold. I can talk better than explain on forums my thoughts. Come back if needed.

chevman
Thanks Larry, that's pretty similar to what I did to strip the caps.
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Old 05-13-2014, 09:18 PM   #649
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Originally Posted by JiminJersey View Post
It's a shame that some of us are having difficulties with RMP now - but as noted, mine still looked decent. In the interests of Science, I decided to strip the Bounder down and re-apply to see what I get. I did a wash on Sunday top to bottom and then spent 5 hours yesterday stripping the front and passenger side - I just used 50/50 Zep stripper and water, a blue MF rag, and a green sponge to buff off. Let the stripper work for a minute or so, hit it with the rough sponge and then rinse the hell out of it. I could see where the RMP was coming off, but mine never looked yellow - white as the day it went on.

It appears that there may be some variability with regards to MH age, color, and so on. It might be interesting to hear from any one else who's done, like me, a 25 year old all-fiberglass bus with fairly faded paint, versus someone with just a 10 to 15 year old RV that may have a completely different formulation somehow. And surroundings obviously play a part. We don't have the scorching sun over here in Jersey, but we do have the humidity and some pretty nasty acid rain. Hell, I live within 30 miles of about sixteen oil refineries, a dozen chemical plants, and fertilizer dust is all over this area as well. Maybe all that crap in the air toughens it up?..lol Pictures will follow as I progress.
My yellowing is not all that obvious. Basically, if I get a chip/flake in the ZEP, the area that shows thru is whiter. The areas that flaked badly were horizontal surfaces ... the area of the cap that is above the windshield and the upper/top area of the rear cap. You actually need to be on the roof to see it.
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Old 05-14-2014, 02:18 AM   #650
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In all of this ZEP/RMP thread, I noticed something interesting:

A lot of people did not stick with the RMP replacement product, the ZEP "High Traffic" polish. They used other polishes, including "Wet Look", etc. I called ZEP a while back to get all that straightened out, and found out that the products can differ sugnificantly from each other. ZEP specificalyl stated that the "High Traffic" polish was the actual Red Max Pro prodeuct rebranded under a different name. They also stated that Red Max Pro/ZEP "High Traffic" and the other ZEP polishes were NOT the same thing, and chemically speaking, were not nearly as durable as RMP/High Traffic. I'm wondering how big of a factor this has really turned out to be, especially since this thread started out with loads of testimonials about how RMP was so fantastic from year to year without any reports of failure as long as a new coat was applied.
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Old 05-14-2014, 06:02 AM   #651
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I'm wondering how big of a factor this has really turned out to be, especially since this thread started out with loads of testimonials about how RMP was so fantastic from year to year without any reports of failure as long as a new coat was applied.
Excellent point - all of my application has been with the classic, red-bottle RMP #3 - I bought four gallons of it when it appeared that Lowes might stop carrying it. Two and a half remain.
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Old 05-14-2014, 11:21 AM   #652
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Found a site, (Practical Sailor) that did a test on six different acrylics over 6 years on 6 oxidized panels cut out of a wrecked boat.. Poli glo came out on top with no yellowing. But the glass they used did have a yellow tint to start with. They didn't mention any flaking as with RMP that I had in 2 years. The 2 gallons of RMP #3 are going down to my church for the hall floor. I will use poliglo after the stripping is done.
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Old 05-16-2014, 09:35 AM   #653
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Found a site, (Practical Sailor) that did a test on six different acrylics over 6 years on 6 oxidized panels cut out of a wrecked boat.. Poli glo came out on top with no yellowing. But the glass they used did have a yellow tint to start with. They didn't mention any flaking as with RMP that I had in 2 years. The 2 gallons of RMP #3 are going down to my church for the hall floor. I will use poliglo after the stripping is done.

Good info, thanks. Got a link to that site?
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Old 05-17-2014, 08:58 PM   #654
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Good info, thanks. Got a link to that site?
never learned how to attach a link, BUT, google , Poli glo review- practical sailor
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Old 05-23-2014, 07:16 PM   #655
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I have applied poli glo today on one side of the alpenlite


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Old 05-23-2014, 07:17 PM   #656
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I have applied poli glo today on one side of the alpenlite


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No picture another try coming
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Old 05-23-2014, 07:38 PM   #657
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Angry

Last chance for me sending a picture. chevman
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Old 05-23-2014, 07:53 PM   #658
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