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Old 11-29-2009, 11:11 PM   #1
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Renovating our 1987 Fleetwood Bounder

Instead of posting lots of individual threads regarding our bounder thought it best to make a general "renovation thread"

With the reworking/renovating and freshening up of most areas of our 87 coach we are thinking of moving the bedroom around. Now the wardrobes are floor to ceiling with 2 cupboards on the wall between the 2 wardrobes,they are just a thin wooden frame stapled together with thin plywood over the top.Just wondering do any of the wardrobes etc aid roof strength/support?!

I dont think they do, but rather than go rushing in and ripping them out only to have the roof collapse! I thought I'd ask first!

Any future topics or help required in any areas will chuck them in here

Of course pictures of any progress will be posted !
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Old 11-30-2009, 03:00 PM   #2
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Of course pictures of any progress will be posted !
Absolutely!

Some of us watch these rebuild/remodel threads closer than a TV serial...
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Old 12-01-2009, 03:39 PM   #3
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Started work on the leaking water heater. Found out the cold water feed was the culprit.I just love the positioning of the heater in terms of access for the pipe work etc. Space is limited i grant the mechanics but a removable panel would of been nice!

Wasnt affraid to reck the bottom half of the wardrobe front as from previous leaks and this one the lower woodwork has all gone moldy.Will be replacing the original insulation around the heater with the newer stuff.
Although not perfect it was all i could do with the length of new hose that i had got , thought i woudnt need that much ,so to be able to atleast use the heater for now the hose has the sharp curve in it. The original grey pipe had a series of further 90 degree bends ,thinking that after another trip to the store i will probably add some more pipe and a few right angle couplings to reduce the pressure on the connectors.

One thing would it be wise to get metal braided hoses for the connection instead?

The Everpure quick release water filter system is leaking badly all around the main head joint and water stop valve arm (beneath the wardrobe to the left of the water heater) So will either try and get a replacement or parts,or just cut it out rejoin the water feed and use an inline water filter on the park hose.

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Old 12-01-2009, 03:47 PM   #4
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One thing would it be wise to get metal braided hoses for the connection instead?
I would if it was mine...
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Old 12-02-2009, 05:30 AM   #5
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All of that gray pipe is quest it looks like. If so you need to get rid of all of it you can. Replace it with pex and you should be trouble free in the future.
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Old 12-02-2009, 05:25 PM   #6
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Hmmm, those grey water lines look familiar. Oh yea! They're the same as the ones leaking behind my shower enclosure on my '87 Tioga. I am in the middle of removing the shower just to get at the leaky fittings on the water line flush drains. I have all those 90 degree joints too, the joint cement seems to be the culprit that leaks after 20+ years. Unfortunately for me, the shutoff valves are behind the leaks and not in front of them.

Your water heater location looks like a good spot for a removable panel to replace the part you had to tear out to access the plumbing. That way if you ever need to get at it again it won't be such a pain.

Bob
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Old 12-03-2009, 10:58 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by RVee'r View Post

Your water heater location looks like a good spot for a removable panel to replace the part you had to tear out to access the plumbing. That way if you ever need to get at it again it won't be such a pain.

Bob
Was thinking that myself thanks , both in the front of the cupboard and inside.

Will also have alook at the bath/shower faucet plumbing too , although no visible leaks (on floor etc) seeing as we are repairing stuff doesnt hurt to look..then realize i wish i hadnt looked!!

It appears that either a previous owner or from factory they have put an access panel in the bedroom wall to get to the back of bath plumbing ,or thats what it looks like ,havent been brave enough to open it yet

there maybe some pauses in our progress as the coach is our fulltime home,so not always the time or money to progress further with some of the big stuff.Will certainly update as often as possible,even small ones.
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Old 12-05-2009, 07:54 PM   #8
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It appears that either a previous owner or from factory they have put an access panel in the bedroom wall to get to the back of bath plumbing ,or thats what it looks like ,havent been brave enough to open it yet
I guess because since we both have '87 Fleetwoods there's a lot of similarities even though the models are different. Mine also has an access panel for the bathtub/shower plumbing, but the space between the rear wall and the tub is too small to fix my leak there, it's only a few inches. But, that's definitely where my leak is, I can see it leaking when I connect the hose to my water supply and turn it on. But what's good about it is I thought I had a leaking holding tank or something outside, because the dripping water was showing up first by dripping from the rear bumper, but that's because it was seeping through the floor inside. So it was good to be able to actually find the source of the leak. (It's a 90 degree fitting that the sealant must have come loose).
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Old 12-06-2009, 02:04 AM   #9
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I used the metal mesh jacketed lines where ever I replaced a hose in mine, granted this was mainly for the hot water side since the primary pipe they connect to is galvanized steel.
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Old 12-06-2009, 03:41 AM   #10
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I guess because since we both have '87 Fleetwoods there's a lot of similarities even though the models are different. Mine also has an access panel for the bathtub/shower plumbing, but the space between the rear wall and the tub is too small to fix my leak there
Thanks for the info,quite intriguing the similarities between certain ages of the same brand ..hearing that im now going to open that very panel let you know if theres the same lack of room behind it.

RedneckExpress I will be investing the metal braided/jacketed lines for the heater connections and all the faucet lines too. After reading a thread over at RV.net about a renovation of a vintage coach that used metal braided lines for all the same connections,looks so much nicer and probably more reliable. The member used sharkbite connectors which look really good,so a trip to home depot beckons.

Oh and due to very cold/freezy conditions the shureflo water pump lines leaked so its looking like most if not all the plumbing is going to be replaced.The pipe from the pump had been botched with just hose pipe connecting to the original grey piping.
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Old 12-10-2009, 04:34 PM   #11
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Sharkbite connectors are something new to me so I Googled 'em... pretty cool. I assume they come in various lengths? Probably expensive for a long one, huh.

Bob
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Old 12-11-2009, 05:48 PM   #12
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Sharkbite connectors are something new to me so I Googled 'em... pretty cool. I assume they come in various lengths? Probably expensive for a long one, huh.

Bob
They come in several diameters 1/2 " 3/4" and 1 " for those size pipes,able to connect copper,PEX, and others together. From reducers to on/off valves all the way to 90 degree bends.

Update time, have now got hopefully all the stuff needed for the plumbing although theres always 1 you either forget or end up needing!
Pictures on the way for those , plus will now be replacing the bathroom sink & faucet plus the drain pipes too.As they are 22 years old and might aswell renew them along the way. Removing the cabinet that the sink is in will also allow access to the rear inner wall of the coach that is all crunchy at the bottom.

You can also see the very inner surface wood has slipped down from a main seam , so the plumbing and wall will be tackled at the same time.
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Old 12-11-2009, 08:45 PM   #13
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We connected our replaced water heater with the reinforced hoses instead of the metal ones. We have also upgraded part of our plumbing with PEX (we had all the connectors and the tool that crimps on both sizes of connectors). We replaced our kitchen faucet with a house type faucet as well. We swapped a lot of "RV" stuff out with standard house stuff. We did this because it is easier to find a Lowes or Home Depot than an RV store where we used to live. And a great deal of RV stuff is expensive junk. So it is either house type stuff or marine.... I love West Marine catalogs.
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Old 12-12-2009, 02:19 PM   #14
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We replaced our kitchen faucet with a house type faucet as well. We swapped a lot of "RV" stuff out with standard house stuff. We did this because it is easier to find a Lowes or Home Depot than an RV store where we used to live. And a great deal of RV stuff is expensive junk.
Was actually thinking that ourselves, looking at how much more expensive anything with the "RV" tag on it is!

While I'm building up confidence to tackle the rear wall and all the plumbing heres a shot of one of our earlier mods. As the original Norcold 3 way fridge bit the dust we put in a regular household one from Lowes.Yeah not a 3 way and not true RV but it fits and works very well.

Also heres the shot of the rear inner wall of the coach.See how the inner panel has dropped and needs sorting out. Vanishes behind the cabinet & sink *yay*. Luckily we want to replace the original/tired sink and a nicer looking cabinet, so will be making a new one.





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