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Old 04-13-2009, 04:44 AM   #15
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Yepper-Lorna knows roof reseals.
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Old 04-13-2009, 10:08 AM   #16
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Wow, Lorna. It must be thick stuff, huh? We had some rain here this weekend and wind so I am still working on removing old caulking--what a painstaking job. That's ok because when I'm all finished I'd better not have a leak for a very long time!
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Old 04-13-2009, 10:25 AM   #17
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It warranted against leaking as long as you follow the directions.
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Old 04-16-2009, 01:30 PM   #18
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Oh, I can follow directions alright. Oldest of twelve, Catholic schools, seven years in the Army...

Approximately half the roof caulking is done. We have had enough drizzling rain here to keep me off the roof so I am working on other stuff. I've removed both fender skirts, cleaned up what was left of the putty tape (now hardened and missing in places) washed em up and repainted. Easy fix. Working on repainting the old, worn off striping but think I may just buy some striping for the rest of it.

So, whilst I was inside looking at what else I wanted to tackle while we have the wet weather (supposed to storm here for next three days!) I noticed a soft spot on the ceiling in the overhead bunk. So, smart me sticks my finger right on through the wallpaper and what do I see? You guessed it--dry rot in the ceiling! Old stuff, not new. That's what I get for feeling just a bit too confident about having had no leaks. The rest of the ceiling feels sturdy, so maybe it's limited in area. Problem is, there's only one way to find out and I don't know if I want to go there. 'specially after what you are still going through, Gary.

BTW I'm finally caught up on your "Baby's" progress. What a chore! I guess the whole thing is about patience and doing it right and it's gonna take whatever time it takes to get it done. Will continue keeping up with the saga.

Anyone know if dry-rot will spread or will it be confined to the area originally affected? Brother!
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Old 04-16-2009, 01:32 PM   #19
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A few gallons? Applied in several coats, I assume? MH needs to be level? Do you pour a gallon on the roof and then smush it around or split it up for a thin, even coat and repeat?
It takes a couple gallons to do the whole roof with a coat thick enough to actually make a seal. For around vents, I usually use an old detergent scoop to ladle it out, then use a paint brush to spread it even.

My roof already started out with several layers of older snow roof on it, so mostly, I'm just patching areas where I've removed it to make changes to the roof vent assemblies.

There's about an 1/8" worth of elastomeric rubber on the roof of my camper at this time and it does do a nice job of cutting down the noise from rain.
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Old 04-16-2009, 08:50 PM   #20
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Oh, I can follow directions alright. Oldest of twelve, Catholic schools, seven years in the Army...

Approximately half the roof caulking is done. We have had enough drizzling rain here to keep me off the roof so I am working on other stuff. I've removed both fender skirts, cleaned up what was left of the putty tape (now hardened and missing in places) washed em up and repainted. Easy fix. Working on repainting the old, worn off striping but think I may just buy some striping for the rest of it.

So, whilst I was inside looking at what else I wanted to tackle while we have the wet weather (supposed to storm here for next three days!) I noticed a soft spot on the ceiling in the overhead bunk. So, smart me sticks my finger right on through the wallpaper and what do I see? You guessed it--dry rot in the ceiling! Old stuff, not new. That's what I get for feeling just a bit too confident about having had no leaks. The rest of the ceiling feels sturdy, so maybe it's limited in area. Problem is, there's only one way to find out and I don't know if I want to go there. 'specially after what you are still going through, Gary.

BTW I'm finally caught up on your "Baby's" progress. What a chore! I guess the whole thing is about patience and doing it right and it's gonna take whatever time it takes to get it done. Will continue keeping up with the saga.

Anyone know if dry-rot will spread or will it be confined to the area originally affected? Brother!

Normally the water damage travels a long distance from the source of the leak.Kind of works like this.A leak occurs and the insulation(blue board) acts like a sponge.It transfers the water all over the ceiling.(well a long,long way from the leak)Dry rot happens over time with hot and cold temps over the yrs.Mine started at the roof vent over the shower and traveled threw-out the whole ceiling.Spot repairs almost never work for the long term.I think yrs ago Lorna told me her and her hubby tried to spot repair theirs and they ended up doing the whole thing too.Alot depends on at what time you catch the leak and repair the ceiling.As Lorna told me long ago,"you got to understand these RV's are built from the ground up",so to I.D. the leak source is really hard without removing the ceiling.The other thing to consider is over the yrs the glue that hold all this ceiling materials in place has baked in the sun on the roof and even if it is dry rotted,it doesn't come off very easily.For me I wanted to scrape off the blue board too because of a concern about mold.BTW-no heat should be applied to get the glue loosen.If the blue board catches fire it gives off toxic flumes.Just hard work that takes time.Honestly-many have done this job tons faster than me.I haven't been on this job as much as I should have been.The only excuse is I do have a number of projects going on at the same time for my business interstuckor(sp) rebuild.
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Old 04-16-2009, 09:36 PM   #21
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...I think yrs ago Lorna told me ... As Lorna told me long ago...
Okay, I've been posting way too long! Guess what... We will probably buy a school bus to haul our junk out to NM in. Guess what... We might have found a 40 ft long Bluebird diesel. Guess what... IF, IF, IF we get the 40 ft Bluebird school bus... I plan on converting it into an RV! Am I a glutton for punishment or what?
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Old 04-17-2009, 08:00 AM   #22
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Okay, I've been posting way too long! Guess what... We will probably buy a school bus to haul our junk out to NM in. Guess what... We might have found a 40 ft long Bluebird diesel. Guess what... IF, IF, IF we get the 40 ft Bluebird school bus... I plan on converting it into an RV! Am I a glutton for punishment or what?

Just a ref as part of this old guys learning curve..Certainly no disrespect meant.
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Old 04-17-2009, 05:54 PM   #23
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Okay, Guess what... IF, IF, IF we get the 40 ft Bluebird school bus... I plan on converting it into an RV! Am I a glutton for punishment or what?
yeah!!!
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Old 04-17-2009, 09:25 PM   #24
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Ok, I'm getting a clearer picture now, thank you. I guess I was thinking it was going to be thick, like an inch or so. We had some really good rain here today and supposed to get some more tonight and tomorrow. The good new is that where I've cleaned up the old caulking and replaced with new, no leaks! Bad news is now I see that water has gotten into the back wall! I hadn't made it back that far yet in the repairs. Had a break in the weather this pm so I headed up to try and repair before next downpour.
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Old 04-18-2009, 05:15 AM   #25
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Wow,I'm glad I read this thread! I got my 74 Norris TT out of storage last month and saw where I'n gonna have to reseal the roof and replace a couple of panels in ceiling. Thanks for having your problems first,so I know what to buy and do!
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Old 04-18-2009, 08:02 AM   #26
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It takes a couple gallons to do the whole roof with a coat thick enough to actually make a seal. For around vents, I usually use an old detergent scoop to ladle it out, then use a paint brush to spread it even.

My roof already started out with several layers of older snow roof on it, so mostly, I'm just patching areas where I've removed it to make changes to the roof vent assemblies.

There's about an 1/8" worth of elastomeric rubber on the roof of my camper at this time and it does do a nice job of cutting down the noise from rain.
I was told by a RV friend tech from Canada that the better RV repair shops after resealing a roof close off all the openings in the roof and pressurize the RV checking the roof for leaks by soaping the roof and looking for bubbles.I am not sure how a do-it-yourself-er would do that.
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Old 04-18-2009, 02:05 PM   #27
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It takes a special shop with more than normal shop type tools. And thats why there is not too many around the country....
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Old 04-18-2009, 03:38 PM   #28
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Can I get elastometric(sp?) caulk at Lowes or HD,or do I have to go to a place like Camping World?
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