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Old 02-09-2012, 07:52 AM   #15
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I pulled off all my roof vents, ac, etc. Removed and replaced all the rotten luan. Made corner molding to replace the abs. Covered the whole deal with three layers of fiber glass and bonded to the sides. Raised all the thru-roof fittings 1/2". The bathroom skylight is now lexan. So what I have now is a one-piece bus body sides to roof, with no thru screw holes anywhere. I eliminated the roof rack and ladder because it's too slippery to go up there. If I land in a river upside down I should float. If I get a hole, it's just a fiberglass patch. Lot's of work but I hate doing things over, this should last 30 yrs (more than me).

I'll post pictures if somebody tells me how!
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Old 02-09-2012, 08:39 AM   #16
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PeterS, you went a lot farther than I did. As I previously mentioned. I glassed the 2 front corners to cover the voids left from the leaks. Then I covered a 4ft section with the rubber membrane. On the rear, where I had some delaminating, I glued down luan sheets over the old roof, that needed repairing. Then covered it with the rubber membrane. As a precaution, I ran a 4" strip of eternalbond tape down each side where the side molding meets the roof. Additionally, I taped each seam. To finish it off, I applied 3 coats of roof coating.

It took me just over a week to do it all. But, part of the time was having to work around the weather.

BTW, would you have any documentation for your Sun Clipper?

Thanks,

Terry
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Old 02-10-2012, 06:17 AM   #17
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Nope, I have nothing. I did fiber glass because it was cheaper than edpm (if labor counts as 0) and I'm used to working on boats. Also all my side mounting screws were rusted out. I should have just left the old luan in place, killed the mold with bleach and just gone over the top.

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Old 02-10-2012, 06:40 AM   #18
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I for one would love to see some pictures of your project from start to finish. Any chance?
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Old 02-11-2012, 08:15 AM   #19
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Ok, I finally found the little paper clip to add photos...Duh! Attached (I hope) are before and after shots and one "Photoshopped" exterior. Although I do have one top side almost complete with diamond plate. When I painted the side my sloppy fiber glass work showed, so I tried to hide it with diamond plate. It's better, but not great, oh well. Never be noticed at 50 mph.
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Old 02-11-2012, 08:49 AM   #20
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Looks like a lot of fun. I'm currently living in a 79 Pace Arrow, Working on it when time and money allows. Much Fun but DW and I like the freedom of living where we are parked!
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Old 02-11-2012, 01:58 PM   #21
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A few more shots taken today. Soon I'll be able to buy the teak plywood I need to complete the interior, the corian for the countertop and I'm planning on making the leather seat and couch covers myself. The bamboo flooring is leftover from a construction job, and the kitchen redesign so far. The table will be removable in front of the couch and next to the drivers seat.
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Old 02-11-2012, 02:09 PM   #22
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Boy, this sounds like quite the project to me. Hope all turns out good. I guess the one good thing to report is there had been NO leaks inside. That's a good thing
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Old 02-12-2012, 12:17 PM   #23
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Good work guys, I like they way you both came up with very doable and lasting solutions to your roofing projects! have a couple questions.

TRD, What material did you find to make your repairs? Did you find EPDM material in the sizes you needed or did you use a alternative material. Didn't see if you posted the material you used. Also what do you plan to coat it with LR?

Peters, what glass did you use, standard mat or a heavier woven roven mat like 1806 (can recall if the is the correct #)? I would think epoxy resin would be way to costly and you used a vinylester resin? What are you planning on coating with, paint, Gelcoat?

Thanks and good luck.
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Old 02-12-2012, 05:52 PM   #24
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TDroma,

As I stated in an earlier post, I only repaired the front (about 4 ft) and the rear (about 8ft). The balance of the roof was in decent shape. The MH had been under a shed except the front and rear.

I did the front piece first and learned a lot from it, resulting in my doing the rear a little different. The front, as I removed the old EPDM, it delaminated the top section of the wood. and I had 2 holes in the front corners. After removing the rotted wood from the corners, I cut a section of luan and fitted it in and glassed over these parts and then used glass to smooth out the delaminted areas. For the rear, I applied 2 sheets of luan over the old roof and didn't remove the old EPDM.

Then, I applied new EPDM using Weathbond LC-60 adhesive, over the repaired areas. The molding down each side (not sure what it is called) was coming loose. I didn't remove it, but used stainless steel staples to re-attach.

After I applied the EPDM, I run strips of 4" eternalbond seaming tape down the full lenght on both sides covering the rounded molding and over lapping on to the roof. Then, I used the seaming tape to tape all seams or/or joints. I then applied 3 coats of Roofmate Hi Tensile, Acrylic Elastomer Liquid Roofing membrane. The last coat being very heavy

Finally, I went back with M-1 roofing caulk and run a bead on all my taped, seams. This was probable over kill, but I knew it wouldn't hurt doing it.

That job is finished and I am proud to say, it has not leaked at all. However, it hasn't rained yet either .

Terry (TRD)
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Old 02-13-2012, 05:04 AM   #25
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I used 6oz woven which was too light ergo the three layers. I was trying to get it flat and finally gave-up, who's going to see it aside from birds. (Mat is too stiff to round the edges, I bought a big roll of woven on ebay) I used Home Depot bondo epoxy(3-4 gallons), $35 a gallon, dash patch to level the seams and a little bondo to flatten it out. The mistakes I made were: Be very particular when attaching the curved edge pieces (which I made), if they're perfect, you're done. If they're off it's a real PIA when you paint. I added 1/2" bases to all the thru-roof vents. They are epoxied over the first coat of glass, then covered with two more coats of glass. All my vents are stuck on with 3M 5200 and 1/2 stainless screws, so in theory no screws penetrate the roof. When almost done I injected foam into the hollow round edges for support, Then covered the whole business with diamond plate. Second mistake: Rerun whatever wires you might need before sealing up. And most adhesives dissolve the foam insulation. Once you start with the glass everything has to be sanded and blended together, no edges. I remade my stern corners the same way. Paint I used boat brightside, but I don't think it matters as long as you use oil based. Edpm you can find on ebay, it's expensive and heavy and rips, mine was 1/16th in some places, gone in others. The old caulk I pulled off was crap, the 5200 is permanent, it has to be cut off. All my windows are glued in with 5200
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Old 02-13-2012, 07:51 AM   #26
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PeterS like how you did the raised rails around the vents and skylights may have to try that on the old tc roof as it is molded fiberglass....
curious on the roof how well is it working had thought about doing something like that for the exterior of the side walls on the tc
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Old 02-13-2012, 06:45 PM   #27
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TRD, Peters,
Thanks for the very detailed replies, just what I was looking for! This info may come in handy for my future project. I like both methods, EPDM is a very proven product and I am very familiar with fiberglass work from my boat projects. Just wanted the additional info because knowledge is power and means less mistakes. BTW Peters I hate working with gelcoat, never got the hang of it! I agree for this type of roofing application it is not really needed.

I don't get my MH until the 24th at earliest and not sure what kind of existing roof system it has now, but believe it will need to be addressed.

Thanks again for the replies!
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Old 02-14-2012, 04:11 AM   #28
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Gelcoat is a PIA to work with, (plus it's porous). It needs to cure in an airless environment, which is created when you spray it into a polished mold. Chop gets sprayed over it eliminating the air. After it sets up you pull out a shiny finished surface that's hard to repair. To do a repair you need to clean the crack, apply the gell coat mix and cover it with saran wrap (no air) to cure, then sand and polish it to match. I prefer Awgrip, but it's very expensive, very hard to work with, explosive and highly toxic! But deep color, very shiny and lasts forever. I painted my bus with Rustoleum, cheap, good solids and white. I'm having trouble getting the mixture right, but will try again when it warms up.
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