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Old 02-15-2012, 03:57 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by PeterS View Post
I painted my bus with Rustoleum, cheap, good solids and white. I'm having trouble getting the mixture right, but will try again when it warms up.
Are you spraying the thinned Rustoleum or using the roll-and-tip method?

We used Interlux Brightside marine Paint thinned 15% with their own thinner (MEK will work, too) on our coach and were very pleased with it.

We had thought about the 50/50 Rustoleum method, but it seemed like too many coats/too much wet-sanding.
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Old 02-15-2012, 07:55 PM   #30
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Are you spraying the thinned Rustoleum or using the roll-and-tip method?

We used Interlux Brightside marine Paint thinned 15% with their own thinner (MEK will work, too) on our coach and were very pleased with it.

We had thought about the 50/50 Rustoleum method, but it seemed like too many coats/too much wet-sanding.
While I know nothing about the Rustoleum products I agree with the use of Interlux Brightside. I used it on several of my boating projects (above the water line) and it is a very good product. I use the MEK thinner. I must say I have a great fiberglass supply house who are very helpful to me just a few miles away. So they have been a great assistance on all my fiberglass projects.
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Old 02-15-2012, 07:57 PM   #31
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Also (FYI) I rolled and tipped mine.
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Old 02-16-2012, 04:12 AM   #32
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Funny! I was going to full-time it on my boat for retirement, but the cost of slippage doubled in the 00's. I renovated a 38ft ketch, new engine, bottom down to glass, new fuel tank, all new teak and stainless. It would have cost me $120 a night to tie-up. So, back to busses. I rolled and tipped the nose with Awlgrip (didn't level well), I'll redo it eventually. My roof is brightside and the sides I sprayed with Rustoleum, but I couldn't get good coverage even at 50%. I'll retry in the spring, at least it looks better white. I'll try again with brightside, (The diamond plate trim makes my surface is 50% smaller). In five days my SS starts, then it's all new appliances and propane tank. And start to finish the interior, lot's of teak. I thought MEK was an epoxy thinner, I can't stand the smell, so I've never used it. Acetone is bad enough and Awlgrip thinner is deadly.
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Old 02-16-2012, 09:02 AM   #33
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Beautiful boat! (Can you feel the envy?)

MEK is serious stuff, but its advantage to us was cost over the proprietary thinners. I just have to be extremely careful not to breathe the fumes or let it touch skin while mixing, or I'll spend the next four days in bed with a migraine.

Just FYI, we got excellent coverage and great leveling with the Brightside on vertical surfaces in 2 coats with minimal wet sanding. It wasn't necessary for us to have a mirror finish, of course. Made it pretty economical, even at $24/qt.
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Old 02-23-2012, 09:23 AM   #34
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Check out my blog, I used liquid rubber over a year ago and very happy with it.
Great blog. When it's time I'll probably go with your method.

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Originally Posted by PeterS View Post
IAll my vents are stuck on with 3M 5200 and 1/2 stainless screws, so in theory no screws penetrate the roof. The old caulk I pulled off was crap, the 5200 is permanent, it has to be cut off. All my windows are glued in with 5200
Thanks for posting the pictures. I hope you never have to remove a vent or window having used 5200 because your'e right, it's very permanent. I believe I would have went with 3M UV4000.

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Beautiful boat! (Can you feel the envy?)

MEK is serious stuff, but its advantage to us was cost over the proprietary thinners. I just have to be extremely careful not to breathe the fumes or let it touch skin while mixing, or I'll spend the next four days in bed with a migraine.

Just FYI, we got excellent coverage and great leveling with the Brightside on vertical surfaces in 2 coats with minimal wet sanding. It wasn't necessary for us to have a mirror finish, of course. Made it pretty economical, even at $24/qt.
Yeah, I really like the brightside paint as well.
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