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Old 04-10-2013, 05:04 PM   #1
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Running Genny while driving

I've looked at a lot of comments on running the genny while driving and most have said they do it in extreme heat when cab air isn't enough to keep it cool.
I have a 1979 Chevy G-30 coach. Today I tried it and found out my genny will not start while engine is running. When I stopped, I of course checked out my genny and it started right up and ran perfect.
My A/C in the cab is down and requires the old refrigerant, of course, R-12 which you can still get but illegal to do so, from what I read. And from all I'm reading, not here, yet, but it says not wise to purge the system and put in the new legal stuff, as might do harm to the compressor and hoses and all kinds of bad stuff might happen.
Looking for ideas here, my cab a/c is still working, but with only cool air, not enough to really be comfy in the heat.
Thx for any ideas. This site has been a great help so far, and have got a lot of good info here.
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Old 04-10-2013, 05:48 PM   #2
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I can't think of any viable reason that you couldnt run the genset when the chassis ignition is on... does yours have a transfer switch that automatically switches to generator or shore power when you plug it in or run the genset.. or does yours have a seperate outlet that you have to plug the genset into the coach?
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Old 04-10-2013, 05:53 PM   #3
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Don't know where you have heard to not change your A/C over to the new freon. I had a 90 model Ford that was changed over and now have a 96 Chevy that was changed over and both work great.
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Old 04-10-2013, 07:03 PM   #4
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i can chime in on both subjects, first we run our gen set going down the road almost constantly if needed i think it was actually cheaper on my rig to use the overhead air then the dash air just using the dash air when really warm.
as far as the conversion to the new freon 134-a it is a pretty straight forward process recover the r-12 from the system if possible i have done it both ways vented it and had it recovered depends on your resources but recovery is greener and more legal.
purchase a new dryer , orifice tube , o rings , conversion fittings and pag oil drain the oil from the compressor and install the new oil and parts,replace all the o rings you can reach to fix reason you are losing refrigerant.
reassemble and have the unit vacuumed down if possible to remove moisture and check for leaks and then add the first can of freon with sealer then charge with 2/3 the amount of 134 with no sealer as it calls for using r-12 freon remembering the can with sealer. it will still work if you can't get it vacuumed .run the unit and add just a small amount at a time if needed but don't exceed 250 psi on the high side setting still.then check the new fittings for leaking after done if leaking remove put in a baggie for later use and reinstall the old caps. another thing is to make sure the fan clutch is working perfectly as this will greatly affect the pressures.
this just a basic overview of how to do a conversion, some people will tell you to just mix the refrigerants Don't do this as it will fail sooner or later.
i have done many conversions and have had really good success when done correctly
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Old 04-11-2013, 12:13 AM   #5
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94 Newmar, I have the switch that goes from gen to bat to shore. I put the switch on gen before hand. I hit the pushbutton in the coach, nothing, also have a push button start on the gen itself. 'nadda' on both. The only thing I haven't tried is starting up the gen, then trying to start the engine. Maybe it was rigged so it's not supposed to run both at same time, I don't know.
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Old 04-11-2013, 12:18 AM   #6
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Yike PWF, I'm a 70 yo broad, I can do a lot of stuff myself, doing all that ain't in my expertise, . I'm thinking I'll just get a couple or more cans of R-12 while I still can, and do a little at a time. It works, I can hear the compressor kick in and out and it does have a 'little' cool left.
As far as the gen goes, I would run it, but it wouldn't start while engine was running, that was the problem.
Thx.
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Old 04-11-2013, 06:34 AM   #7
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You should be able to run the generator while driving. Here you can get the legal R-12A for $13 a can that is what I run it is also on eBay no license required
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Old 04-12-2013, 12:26 AM   #8
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Whem2, I tried ebay today, but could not find any, except where you needed license, if you find, can you link me? Thx.
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Old 04-12-2013, 05:45 AM   #9
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will do
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Old 04-12-2013, 07:16 AM   #10
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looks like you are correct there use to be a lot this is who i use locally Compressor World 817 790 0110 ask for R-12A its called something like Freeze...
let he know what they say its 5 miles from me
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Old 04-12-2013, 05:45 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whem2fish
looks like you are correct there use to be a lot this is who i use locally Compressor World 817 790 0110 ask for R-12A its called something like Freeze...
let he know what they say its 5 miles from me
Whem2fish, the stuff you're thinking of is Freeze-12. I've used it in a couple of restoration projects, but it was discontinued last year. Too bad as it worked well and cold. There's another r-12 replacement called ES-12a. I haven't tried it, so I can't tell you how well it works. I have also tried doing 2 R-134a replacements. The systems did not get as cold as with R12 and one resulted in a very expensive compressor failure. Regardless of which way you go, you will need to get the system purged before adding new refrigerant and oil, and you need to pull a vacuum on it as part of the filling process.

Probably the cheapest way to go is to go to an AC shop and get your R-12 topped off. No need or requirement to empty or purge the system - although some shops will try to tell you that it's necessary.
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Old 04-12-2013, 05:56 PM   #12
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Ill go by and see what they have Monday or wendesday
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Old 04-13-2013, 12:18 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeOrellana View Post
Whem2fish, the stuff you're thinking of is Freeze-12. I've used it in a couple of restoration projects, but it was discontinued last year. Too bad as it worked well and cold. There's another r-12 replacement called ES-12a. I haven't tried it, so I can't tell you how well it works. I have also tried doing 2 R-134a replacements. The systems did not get as cold as with R12 and one resulted in a very expensive compressor failure. Regardless of which way you go, you will need to get the system purged before adding new refrigerant and oil, and you need to pull a vacuum on it as part of the filling process.

Probably the cheapest way to go is to go to an AC shop and get your R-12 topped off. No need or requirement to empty or purge the system - although some shops will try to tell you that it's necessary.
Deorellana, I wish it was as simple as getting the R-12 topped off, but the stuff is not legal anymore, so any places I would go would not do it, dammit.
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Old 04-13-2013, 12:20 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by whem2fish View Post
Ill go by and see what they have Monday or wendesday
Thx, When2Fish, appreciate the comeback. If they do have the original R-12 it would be great!
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