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Old 05-18-2012, 01:31 AM   #1
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RV Frig

On a number of threads I have stated I didn't want to go the home use conversion for my RV.That I was going to look for a tear-out or rebuilt unit for my motor home.If I was going to look for a Norcold replacement direct from them,many of them are only two way.A/C-D/C and not propane.My M/H is a 1981 Warrior on a P30 chassis.But not wanting to be totally closed minded,I do see members speak about some home use models that they are happy with.This M/H doesn't have a on board generator or compartment for one.Just this three way Norcold broken Frig.

So this ramble above is all about where I see members talk about in transit they use dry ice or frozen ice.One thing for sure I have learned about this site,is if there is some way to do a mod,you guys will figure a way.So my question(yeah finally)is if your using say dry ice,how are you keeping it from freezing everything?.Things like say milk.Maybe someone has found a innovating way around that.That would peek my interest in a Home use Frig.Thanks in advance for your help.
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Old 05-18-2012, 02:14 AM   #2
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I would look into doing a Amish Cooling unit upgrade. I am not sure there is one for your fridge but that where I would start. The company is great to deal with and I think they really care about their customers before, during, and after the sale. Dave Force is the man you want to talk to.
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Old 05-18-2012, 06:37 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 336muffin View Post
I would look into doing a Amish Cooling unit upgrade. I am not sure there is one for your fridge but that where I would start. The company is great to deal with and I think they really care about their customers before, during, and after the sale. Dave Force is the man you want to talk to.
I agree with 336muffin, I as well have made the Amish switch, and they are 110 and propane. It was a easy swap and work better than I expected. I have to keep turning everything down, to cold inside, hard to believe but true. They have a five year warranty and you can extend it if you want to. Quality unit and built to last, unlike Norcold there is no recall things to deal with after the switch. Good Luck.
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Old 05-18-2012, 07:13 AM   #4
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On a number of threads I have stated I didn't want to go the home use conversion for my RV.That I was going to look for a tear-out or rebuilt unit for my motor home.If I was going to look for a Norcold replacement direct from them,many of them are only two way.A/C-D/C and not propane.My M/H is a 1981 Warrior on a P30 chassis.But not wanting to be totally closed minded,I do see members speak about some home use models that they are happy with.This M/H doesn't have a on board generator or compartment for one.Just this three way Norcold broken Frig.

So this ramble above is all about where I see members talk about in transit they use dry ice or frozen ice.One thing for sure I have learned about this site,is if there is some way to do a mod,you guys will figure a way.So my question(yeah finally)is if your using say dry ice,how are you keeping it from freezing everything?.Things like say milk.Maybe someone has found a innovating way around that.That would peek my interest in a Home use Frig.Thanks in advance for your help.
Hey Flea,
My experience with dry ice is that it is sold by the pound, Dry ice will freeze anything next to or under it. In out boat's ice box which is much smaller then our RV fridge, we put a pound piece wrapped in lots of brown paper in the freezer along with a bag of ice and a two pound piece also wrapped in paper in the bottom of the fridge next to a one gal bottle of frozen water and a bag of store bought ice. We kept the beer and soda above the dry ice and it was always very cold, Everything that went in the freezer stayed frozen, even the bait in zip bags. The ice would last almost 3 days. If we wanted to stay out longer there was always a big grocery store nearby where we could go ashore and buy more dry ice and bag ice. After a few years boating in the keys you get to know where to dock and get more food, ice, beer, gas and a shower even it is just a fresh water hosedown.
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Old 05-18-2012, 03:40 PM   #5
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Flea you said:
Quote:
If I was going to look for a Norcold replacement direct from them,many of them are only two way.A/C-D/C and not propane.
I believe you will find that 2 way means AC (shore power/generator) or Propane (ON battery boondocking).

3 way means AC, DC or propane.


I do not recall seeing a 2 way AC/DC unless it was one of the high end marine compressor based models.

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Old 05-18-2012, 03:49 PM   #6
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Flea you said:


I believe you will find that 2 way means AC (shore power/generator) or Propane (ON battery boondocking).

3 way means AC, DC or propane.


I do not recall seeing a 2 way AC/DC unless it was one of the high end marine compressor based models.

Dave
Yeah Dave I believe your right now that you brought it up.Been awhile since I last looked at that.

I don't know what a Amish cooling unit is guys.Maybe someone could explain and or leave me a link to look at.
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Old 05-18-2012, 05:53 PM   #7
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Amish info - The Only Real Cure for an Norcold RV Refrigerator "Problem"

Heavier duty hardware

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Old 05-18-2012, 06:18 PM   #8
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Flea, Get a inverter to switch from 12 v. to 110 and run that on the engine battery. Only when u travel. Any regular model Fridge will work on it. Just need to know what the wattage is so you can get the right inverter. Dan
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Old 05-18-2012, 06:48 PM   #9
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Flea, Dry Ice needs special handling, as already pointed out. It is also expensive. Here's a link to the 'Amish' replacement coils for RV fridges.

RV Cooling Unit Warehouse LLC Home Page
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Old 05-19-2012, 02:28 AM   #10
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Quote:
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Amish info - The Only Real Cure for an Norcold RV Refrigerator "Problem"

Heavier duty hardware

Dave
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wallaby Dan View Post
Flea, Get a inverter to switch from 12 v. to 110 and run that on the engine battery. Only when u travel. Any regular model Fridge will work on it. Just need to know what the wattage is so you can get the right inverter. Dan
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Flea, Dry Ice needs special handling, as already pointed out. It is also expensive. Here's a link to the 'Amish' replacement coils for RV fridges.

RV Cooling Unit Warehouse LLC Home Page
Guys.Thank You for the ref's.Sure does give me food for thought.I don't recall where I heard this,but I think it was from a frig repairman telling me those old ammonia frig's even after replacing the coils would pop a leak somewhere else and you end up chasing leaks forever.Could be he is full of it.I am going to contact the ref's given and see what I can do to find a solution.Either way during my remodeling I need to move the ref closer to the side door giving me more room for a bed and enlarge the bathroom/shower.Hate tight shower areas.Got one in my rented apartment now.

Dan,remember how I added a second dry cell large house battery and one of them got stolen?.I would think that might be the circuit I would want to tap into with a inverter.We built a battery tray for the engine battery on the wheelwell and move it to there and then used the location of the original engine tray for the second house battery in parallel with the other big house dry cell battery.I could leave them unused for months and still had tons of power in them when I had two.







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Old 05-20-2012, 12:11 AM   #11
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Guys-I have been involved in a week long struggle resolving some problems on my shop truck/daily driver.I think i got it fixed and have my fingers crossed.So i have had time to read you posts to ref's,but not time to follow threw and contact them.I'll let you know how I did once I have called them.Again thanks for the help.

Gary
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Old 05-20-2012, 08:05 PM   #12
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Hey flea
Go to the norcold website and see if your model is on the recall list for free replacement parts. I just did and mine is there for the combination control.
Gotta check it out more tomorrow or tuesday
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Old 05-21-2012, 12:30 AM   #13
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Hey flea
Go to the norcold website and see if your model is on the recall list for free replacement parts. I just did and mine is there for the combination control.
Gotta check it out more tomorrow or tuesday
Thanks for the heads up.I got to go back threw my notes again and find the model number.I do remember they listed a replacement number for it that was expensive.I guess I'll write down the number tomorrow too because I'm going to the shop where it's parked.Either way sounds like a good starting point would be for me to measure the side door opening to see what the possibilities could be.

Gary
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Old 05-21-2012, 07:07 AM   #14
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Thanks for the heads up.I got to go back threw my notes again and find the model number.I do remember they listed a replacement number for it that was expensive.I guess I'll write down the number tomorrow too because I'm going to the shop where it's parked.Either way sounds like a good starting point would be for me to measure the side door opening to see what the possibilities could be.

Gary
You will need the model number and the serial number both
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