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Old 03-18-2014, 12:17 PM   #15
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ONO, I just secured the ceiling of the Shower Stall back up to the Ceiling. Along the top above the shower curtain was hanging down by about 1"-2"inches. I sprayed a foam type adhesive .As far back as I could reach, and then a couple bead's of Liquid Nails along the edge. Then wedged a board from the shower stall bottom to the top, re-mounted the metal strip. I believe that the shower was never used, except for storage.
I hope it wasn't that way for expansion The P-Trap wasn't hooked up either. I'm fixing it because we plan on going Full time next fall and will want to use it.
I hope it wasn't that way for expansion, because it won't move now
???
tb
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Old 04-12-2014, 09:03 AM   #16
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Refurbished shower stall

Decided to keep the shower surround and tub due to cost of new one plus shipping was not even close to cost effective.

Pulled both the surround and tub out, fixed the cracks in the corners with plastic repair "glue" and some fiberglass repair cloth as recommended from earlier post on this thread and it came out better than expected and then bought plastic paint and sanded and painted both the surround and tub and reinstalled with a new drain for the tub, new faucet and hose.

Got rid of the "accordian" style shower door and installed the fold away shower rod and a new shower curtain.

The other pics are from the bathroom, the old yellow sink was removed and painted and reinstalled with a new faucet and the counter was recovered with "faux" marble and I installed new trim around the counter top and the wife painted the walls and cabinet doors, trying to give the old girl a new life, the MH not the wife....
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Old 04-12-2014, 01:01 PM   #17
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Nice job!
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Old 04-15-2014, 12:44 PM   #18
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Looks amazing. Makes me want to rip mine out and do the same thing. Too bad I'm low on funds. Will take donations. lol
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Old 04-15-2014, 01:45 PM   #19
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Nice job Gary! Working with that plastic is kinda tricky, as far as trying to get anything to stick to it long term. I've used the melted plastic trick with pvc by mixing shavings and pvc cement, and it seemed to work pretty well. I've never tried painting anything that big with plastic paint, but you did all the proper prep work, so it should stick well. What type of "faux" granite did you use...the honeycomb lightweight RV type, or regular counter top type?
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Old 04-15-2014, 01:46 PM   #20
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Didnt cost much

Actually the cost is minimal, I removed, repaired, sanded and painted and then reinstalled the shower surround and tub, the only thing I had to buy was paint and sealant. The shower curtain was maybe $9, the shower rod was about $30 from CW and I put stainless stell screws back in and they were about $10 for 2 boxes, so I may be be into it money wise about $50.

The repair materials for the surround crack was only a few dollars.

The bathroom walls were painted with paint from home depot, the fake marble also from home depot. So between the shower and bathroom I may have spent $75-$80 total. Of course my time was involved but I enjoyed the work and have the satisfaction of a job well done.

Oh I forgot the 2 sided tape to stick the surround to the walls, also from home depot, so maybe I am into the job about $100 over several a week timeframe.
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Old 04-15-2014, 01:49 PM   #21
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bathroom

I used the counter type fake marble from Home Depot, comes in a roll, more than I needed but it only came in 1 size and width, a little tricky to use because I left the counter installed and the back is REAL sticky so you have to be careful because when it sticks it really wants to stay put.
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Old 05-05-2014, 09:58 PM   #22
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I'm jealous. I just got my new Fold-A-Way shower rod. I think I will be very happy with it if I ever get it installed. I guess it's the old story of ' if it ain't broke don't FIX it'. I was in the process of making a bowed shower curtain rod like the bow that Taylor Made Co. uses for holding a nice big curve in a tarp covering a small open boat. My plan was to simply mount the bow high enough that it would not be in the way, and then slide the shower curtain to one end when not in use.
I pulled out the old space wasting accordion door & frame. Then I saw the Fold a way. I scraped my plan ordered & received the new bar only to find to my horror that my 2000 Winne Adventured has nothing behind the plastic surround to which I can screw the new bar. Well I shouldn't say nothing, there is some air space. I just have not figured out yet what will hold my new rod screws to air. Unless one of you smart folks has a solution I may have to go back to plan A.
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Old 05-07-2014, 12:19 PM   #23
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Something I have wondered, but never seen anyone do is buy a tank from a place like TankDepot, and then cut the top out and use it for a shower pan/tub. There is wide variety of tank shapes you can get in a variety of sizes. Since they will install fittings anywhere you need them, it would be easy to have a drain installed.

I remember on my parents old Concord, my dad ripped the shower pan out and made a new one out of aluminum. Folded the edges up and welded them. Welded in a drain fitting. It worked very well, but the aluminum was always cold on bare feet.
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Old 05-07-2014, 12:39 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daveinet View Post
Something I have wondered, but never seen anyone do is buy a tank from a place like TankDepot, and then cut the top out and use it for a shower pan/tub. There is wide variety of tank shapes you can get in a variety of sizes. Since they will install fittings anywhere you need them, it would be easy to have a drain installed.

I remember on my parents old Concord, my dad ripped the shower pan out and made a new one out of aluminum. Folded the edges up and welded them. Welded in a drain fitting. It worked very well, but the aluminum was always cold on bare feet.
A cut down tank wouldn't be sloped for drainage or support your weight standing in it.

I've learned over many years of DIY, do it right and you extend the time before you have to do it again.
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