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Old 04-01-2012, 04:43 AM   #15
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Where did you get this information?

The fuel pressure regulator does not turn off the pump.
when you rotate the key to the Run position, the ECM energizes the fuel pump relay, for a few seconds, to raise the pressure in the fuel rail, to aid starting. The fuel pressure regulator, is very mechanical in nature, where it uses a spring loaded diphragm on a steel plate over a tube. the fuel pressure that overcomes the spring pressure, escapes and returns to the tank. (this is only true for older system, as the new system do not return fuel to the tank from the engine side of the line, enter the EPA) Anyway, "Clear Flood" is a strategy, written into all factory fuel injection systems, (and some aftermarket too) since the mid 80's, when this stuff started to appear. "Clear Flood" is entered when, Engine RPM is at or below 350RPM and Throttle Posistion is over 95% or Full Throttle. It was engineered that way, because the people driving cars with carbs, learned it that way. The Actual RPM varies by manufacturer, but the point is, it's cranking speed not running speed.
Information is wonderful stuff, if it's accurate.
K.
K-not going to crowd her thread in a debate.Key on two seconds-pump off.If not regulator is seeping pressure.
Your right about info.
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Old 04-04-2012, 11:29 AM   #16
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So the mechanic calls me yesterday... it is worse than I thought, and not what I was guessing at all... he had to put a new starter relay on to get it to start... but it was missing badly, 2/8 cylinders were not firing, he thought 2 fuel injectors were either not functioning or something...it was allowing raw fuel out the back end, a smell I had noticed but assumed DH had spilled gas on the ground in that corner(exhaust) when he had put fuel in it from the gas can.. the Ford dealer we had take care of the exhaust manifold issues did a careless job in that a plug was not in all the way and a bolt was missing, he said he didn't know if mice had been having a heyday in there or what, someone apparently had replaced the wiring harness on the drivers side, but there were shorter 3-4 inch wires left over that weren't hooked up, he wasn't sure if mice did that or they didn't clean up the old wiring.... So anyway, being the way they are built with nothing being easy to get too... it will be awhile while they disassemble stuff to get down to the fuel injectors to check that out and I think he said the computer is buried a ways under the battery.... not fun in close quarters for them, but that's what they get paid for. I think he might have been leaning to the injectors being the problem, but also was considering if the computer was the culprit...and even at that, it could be something else, one of those and who knows what else! Don't think I'm gonna make it out this weekend. :( . What I don't get is that, from what I could tell by hearing and feel, it ran just fine before it just stopped .
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Old 04-04-2012, 12:04 PM   #17
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So the mechanic calls me yesterday... it is worse than I thought, and not what I was guessing at all... he had to put a new starter relay on to get it to start... but it was missing badly, 2/8 cylinders were not firing, he thought 2 fuel injectors were either not functioning or something...it was allowing raw fuel out the back end, a smell I had noticed but assumed DH had spilled gas on the ground in that corner(exhaust) when he had put fuel in it from the gas can.. the Ford dealer we had take care of the exhaust manifold issues did a careless job in that a plug was not in all the way and a bolt was missing, he said he didn't know if mice had been having a heyday in there or what, someone apparently had replaced the wiring harness on the drivers side, but there were shorter 3-4 inch wires left over that weren't hooked up, he wasn't sure if mice did that or they didn't clean up the old wiring.... So anyway, being the way they are built with nothing being easy to get too... it will be awhile while they disassemble stuff to get down to the fuel injectors to check that out and I think he said the computer is buried a ways under the battery.... not fun in close quarters for them, but that's what they get paid for. I think he might have been leaning to the injectors being the problem, but also was considering if the computer was the culprit...and even at that, it could be something else, one of those and who knows what else! Don't think I'm gonna make it out this weekend. :( . What I don't get is that, from what I could tell by hearing and feel, it ran just fine before it just stopped .
Starter relay, why??? Was the engine not cranking over at all whe you turned the key??? You mentioned it would not start, you did not say it would not turn over or did I read your posts wrong.

BTW a starter relay (solenoid) at advance autoparts is 15.00 a really good one from NAPA is 30.00 I know I just bought One and it takes about 15 minutes to change one. What did they charge you for that?
If it was running great and then stopped I am wondering why suddenly two injectors are not working and wires are too short or disconnected,and now they are talking computer, plus I never heard of mice disconnecting wires, they chew thru them. I suspect that shop saw you coming and has dollar signs in their eyes.
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Old 04-04-2012, 12:30 PM   #18
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No, there was previous owners who did funky things. The engine would attempt to start... would crank but not catch.
I doubt the mechanic has dollar signs, he seemed weary to have to work on it because it is time consuming and tight quarters, and he has a lot of work as he is the only good guy in town left. Referrals from the RV fix it place and from the tow fellas who won't work with the other guys in town because they are rude and don't fix stuff right. Small town, word gets out real fast if you got screwed over someplace.
As for the wires, either previously mice had a hey day and the previous owners replaced the wiring harness without cleaning up the old stuff, or didn't get things all back like they should... but I don't think it would have driven as well as it did if that were the case. He is just trying to puzzle out the history of what's been done on the old lady and where to start digging in. I have to trust him until he proves untrustworthy, I have no other recourse. He hasn't charged me anything yet.
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Old 04-04-2012, 08:30 PM   #19
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May not be your problem, but I ran into a similar situation on another vehicle one time. Turns out the motor mounts were bad and when the engine was "gunned" to go up an incline in reverse it pulled on some wiring that had been made too short by a PO.
Electric fuel pumps will only run for a few moments if the engine does not start to prevent fuel leaking out after a collision.
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Old 04-05-2012, 02:09 PM   #20
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Turns out there were some wires going to the fuel injectors that were stuck open, with no insulation (mice?) and had gotten grounded- holding the injectors open.
Yeah! get to go camping this weekend! I don't care if it is cool and going to rain!
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Old 04-05-2012, 02:29 PM   #21
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Cool.. easy fix.

Have fun!
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Old 04-08-2012, 10:49 PM   #22
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Wish it were...LOL... we took her out and spent the weekend in her and on the way home, she started knocking really badly and her oil pressure started to go down some.
She is kind of like me, never can seem to get all my parts working well at the same time, but when I do, I can give ya a hell of a time! LOL!

Here is a pic of us 2 old gals out at the campground.




Found a few other things to fix/tinker with so I'll be asking questions again pretty soon.
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Old 04-09-2012, 05:01 PM   #23
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OW! Knocking and loss of oil pressure is NOT a good sign!
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Old 04-10-2012, 05:01 PM   #24
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Well, apparently is was bad against my hopes...spouse says 'Internal bearings, mechanic’s looking for a replacement engine.'
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Old 04-11-2012, 12:06 AM   #25
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Well, apparently is was bad against my hopes...spouse says 'Internal bearings, mechanicís looking for a replacement engine.'
Thats about it.. sorry for your troubles.. dont give up though!
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Old 04-11-2012, 04:10 PM   #26
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Well, apparently is was bad against my hopes...spouse says 'Internal bearings, mechanicís looking for a replacement engine.'
A heavy knock knock knock that increases and decreases with rpm is 9 times out of 10 a connecting rod bearing failure, a decent mechanic should be able to change a rod bearing or bearings without replacing the motor, providing it did not throw the rod. My neighbor across the street did that with his Wife's Explorer. He did it from under the SUV, He changed all the rod bearings while he had the oil pan off. 500 bucks or so vs a few thou, if you can get another good motor and install it that cheap. The problem with a used motor is that you really don't know what you are getting until it is all done and you take it for a drive.

A year or so ago I had the 5.8 motor in my boat rebuilt, cost almost 2 thou just for the machine shop then there was all the accessories and assorted stuff I did not expect to change, we pulled the motor and brought it to the shop and then we re installed it saving all that labor
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Old 04-11-2012, 06:55 PM   #27
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Problem is that the crank's rod journal is toast now too.. And with the drop in oil pressure...

However, I agree with a lower end rebuild if the block and heads are ok, though it might be easier/cheaper to just get a reman through a place like Jaspers..
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Old 04-11-2012, 07:21 PM   #28
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Could the bearings have failed because the oil in the crankcase was polluted with gasoline from the injectors being held open as the result of mice stripping the wires? Did anyone check the oil after discovering the injector problem?
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