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Old 02-08-2011, 12:58 PM   #29
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Seek the experts!

Many comments here, the short of it is that you get exactly what you pay for.

That being stated, one should never use peel and stick anything in an unstable environment.

Your best option would be to re-read everything in this thread, then search floors on this forum and and collect some notes.

Then go to a flooring specialty store, NOT Home Depot like stores, you need to find a place where they do this for a living and ask them for their input.

They would know exactly which products they have would meet your needs and how to prepare the trailer for the install.

I would prefer a wood floor, but that is me, others would prefer a single sheet of material, it is upto your taste, and there are many suitable products as well as many UNsutable ones.
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Old 02-08-2011, 05:23 PM   #30
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I have a client that went to Lowes and picked out some engineered wood. I called my wholesaler and gave them the selection. The supplier said the material at Lowes is "cabin" grade. Cabin grade has many imperfections and is not the quality as you get when you go to a regular retailer. So if you want quality~
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Old 02-12-2011, 09:39 AM   #31
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sleeping beauty allergic to vinyl

Quote:
Originally Posted by Linerpro View Post
Hi all. This is a valuable discussion for me, as I am months behind Made2care on my Manor restoration. When referring to wood floors, is the reference to traditional tongue and groove, installed with air nail gun or the engineered snap together floor? Weght is certainly a major consideration. As well as the movement of the trailer. I guess the question would be, what do the manufacturers use in wood floored RVs...no need to reinvent the wheel.
Rob in CT
I would definitley go with engineered wood , which can be nailed into place. These vinyl self stick tiles are a joke!!!! Do not go that route!!
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Old 02-12-2011, 12:05 PM   #32
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I glue all my engineered wood jobs to the floor. I use premium urethane adhesive. no callbacks
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Old 02-12-2011, 12:27 PM   #33
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Wrong !on the laminate it will pucker up on the edge's with just a little damp mop and you will have to mop , it is just the worst junk ever made , here are your options !
1- re-glue the flooring you have now and if you do use a trowel to spreed the
the glue it will hold up for a short time ,
2- install sheet flooring but purchase good stuff
3- install wood
4- carpet?
5- they do make a vinyl plank that floats ,each piece glues to other BUT!
if it were me i would go with the sheet flooring , it's low cost , easy to lay down and holds up good ,just make sure you buy a big enough piece so you don't have to seam it . just my 2 cents
WRONG!! The newer laminate WILL NOT pucker up with just mopping. In fact, I have had full pans of water dropped on it, dogs peeing on it, mud and snow sitting on it, etc, etc, etc with absolutely NO problems. Granted, this is Pergo, but its still a snap together, cushion backed, full floating 5/16" laminate.
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Old 02-12-2011, 04:22 PM   #34
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When Pergo came out with their flooring years ago, it was inferior. The newer Pergo is much better. They made some great strides in improving their product.
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Old 02-12-2011, 04:27 PM   #35
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Ya.. alot of them were bad back then.. this floor is about 7 years old and still looking good.
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Old 02-12-2011, 10:58 PM   #36
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Might want to call the manufacturer of your peel and stick and ask if you can use a convential glue to stick it down with .You would have minimal expense then, and about the same amount of additional labor.
As I stated in a previous thread of yours I have had little success with peel and stick.

sorry you are having problems as I know you have been working very hard on this restoration. I'm sure you will overcome this problem.
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Old 02-12-2011, 11:56 PM   #37
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most engineered wood will scratch...good laminate does not..take something like your key and lightly draw it across engineered wood and you will usually get a scratch, do this with good laminate and you want get a scratch. most engineered wood has only a thin layer of real wood and it can't be sanded to remove the scratch and refinished as regular 3/4 inch wood can. if you sand it you will be down into regular plywood.
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