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Old 08-23-2014, 11:16 AM   #15
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Did you measure any voltages first?

What dif the old ones look like?

Photos please
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Old 08-23-2014, 11:22 AM   #16
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Forget the solenoid, it's good, the ground strap was your problem

or better yet (on the solenoid) if you are concerned get one and put it in your spares box. Attach the reciept.. That way .. IF yours does go bad it's quick to replace (no run to store needed) and if your neighbor's goes bad.. You can re-sell for cost and pick up a new one later.

By the way.. The idea about the engine ground strap or battery negative cable came from some Ham Radio manuals.. The question was asked "Why do they put fuses in BOTH Positive and Negative leads?".. The answer was basically.. In case what happens to you happens.
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Old 08-24-2014, 09:26 PM   #17
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Well I spoke too soon!! I really thought it was fixed--not!! I spent the last two days doing a rear brake job since I thought the other issue was fixed. I started her up today and had the same problem, starter turned very slowly and burned the new wire. I only have one more day off so tomorrow will be spent going back through this thread and trying all the tests as suggested. I'll post what I find. Gotta recover from the brake job, holy crap that sucked!
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Old 08-24-2014, 09:36 PM   #18
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Wiggle nothing as you have an intermittent that as you discovered can fix on their own.

Get someone to help you and take notes snd make a diagram as you go.

Sewing needles are great for punching into a wire to test it.

Take your time and sneak up on it.
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Old 08-25-2014, 01:51 PM   #19
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Unfortunately I have to get back to the west Texas oil fields. I didn't have a chance to do any further testing on this. I'll get back to it when I get back in a week or so. I just wanted to say thanks again for all the suggestions and I will be trying all of them as soon as I can. Hope you all have a good holiday weekend and stay safe!!
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Old 08-25-2014, 03:07 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gnsgn1 View Post
Unfortunately I have to get back to the west Texas oil fields. I didn't have a chance to do any further testing on this. I'll get back to it when I get back in a week or so. I just wanted to say thanks again for all the suggestions and I will be trying all of them as soon as I can. Hope you all have a good holiday weekend and stay safe!!
Have you checked the connections on the starter and starter solenoid? I doubt if the solenoid up behind the alternator would be drawing all those amps to fry the wire. If the connections to the starter were bad, then they could certainly fry the ground wire you just replaced.
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Old 08-25-2014, 03:35 PM   #21
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I will stick with the negative cable and the chassis to engine cable, those are the only suspects.

Good luck.

NOTE: I had a problem with power to my electric freezer a while back, Traced it to a wire, not the connectors on the ends but the wire itself was bad.. Excised the bad spot, soldered and sealed, all good now.
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Old 08-25-2014, 09:37 PM   #22
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Hey guys, my departure for work has been delayed so I went back to the issue again. I have found something I can't explain. I decided to start with the basics, checking battery voltage. I have the chassis battery and house battery. I checked both and both read good @ over 13 volts when checking post to post. The strange thing is on the chassis battery when checking from positive post to ground it shows zero voltage. when checking from house battery positive to the same ground shows over 13 volts. Here's the really strange part. When checking the chassis battery from negative post to the same ground I have over 12 volts. I have verified this by checking several times and even had my neighbor check and he found the same thing. It seems like the chassis battery has reversed polarity. Doesn't make sense at all to me. Possible for a battery to maybe be connected wrong causing reverse polarity??
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Old 08-25-2014, 09:59 PM   #23
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No the connection is open.

That is why I advised post to post then work back.
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Old 08-25-2014, 10:10 PM   #24
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Let me try to help you and try not to confuse myself why I am at it.

Get pencil and paper and draw 2 squares and place a +&- on each.

Connect both + together and write +12

There would be switches but for now this is all needed.

Place a circle near each -

Connect the circles and write chassis ground.

Draw a line connecting one circle to one of the -

Now imagine connecting your volt meter to the other circle and the remaining -

What happens is the battery will act as a resistor and transfer the 12 volts from the other battery to the negative post.

This is a general description but it explains what you describe.

This indicates the ground connection is no good on the odd one.

So stay focused on that one and carefully continue working back to the frame.

You have an open connection someplace.

DO NOT WIGGLE ANYTHING as you may have intermittent connection.
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Old 08-25-2014, 10:57 PM   #25
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"When checking the chassis battery from negative post to the same ground I have over 12 volts. I have verified this by checking several times and even had my neighbor check and he found the same thing. It seems like the chassis battery has reversed polarity. Doesn't make sense at all to me. Possible for a battery to maybe be connected wrong causing reverse polarity??"

No, since you have a bad ground connection between the negative post and the frame of the RV, when you bridge this gap with your meter you are providing a path for electricity. Remove the ground cable on the battery and test to see if the cable is good. Then wire brush and make sure both ends are cleanly and firmly connected to bare metal when reconnecting.

If you are using the top SAE posts in the shape of truncated cones, positioned on the top of the battery, they are of slightly different diameters and the clamping cables only fit one way. If you're using the 3/8" threaded side post connections, you could wire the battery reverse polarity.
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Old 09-05-2014, 12:04 AM   #26
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Hey guys, back again with an update. Still have the same problem but a few more details. I traced my burned wire through the floor and back toward the engine. It is connected to five other black wires that go off in several different directions. They were connected by a crimp type device taped up inside the harness. I cut the wires loose and stripped all five wires back about a half inch and all five look burned on the inside but normal on the outside. I soldered them all back together and tried starting the engine. It started easily several times but then the slow cranking came back and the same wire got very hot again. The other five that are connected felt warm too but not as hot. I have changed several parts which include : new starter with solenoid, starter relay, all battery cables except positive to generator, engine ground strap and chassis battery. These would have been changed even if this problem didn't exist so I'm not just throwing parts at it. Someone suggested running battery negative directly to engine block instead of the frame. Or maybe running a ground cable from the engine block to the frame where the battery negative is connected. Could anyone elaborate on this? Or any other ideas what is causing this. Thanks again guys.
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Old 09-05-2014, 02:02 AM   #27
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The starter is the heaviest draw on battery power and requires the best, connections power and ground.
Usually the battery is grounded to the engine first then a secondary ground wire from the block to the frame to by-pass the insulating factor of the rubber motor mounts, for lighting and other 12v functions.
Your problem continues to sound like bad ground, if your battery is not grounded directly to the engine block , there should be a cable of equal size between the frame and block.
MY coach the main battery ground goes directly to the starter and a secondary ground goes from there to the frame.
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Old 09-05-2014, 09:46 AM   #28
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What has your voltmeter indicated?

Have you traced the path from battery to starter?

The issue is not anywhere near the burned wire as it is the alternate path.

Leave it alone until you find a defect on a wire the size of your finger and confirm it via pre and post measurements.
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