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Old 09-05-2014, 10:17 AM   #29
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To prove to yourself it's a bad ground, take a piece of bell wire (20 gauge) and connect from negative post of the battery and the engine. Try to start the engine and see how hot the bell wire is. I think you'll then hunt down the ground strap between the engine and the battery or frame and replace it.
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Old 09-05-2014, 08:33 PM   #30
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This 1988 P30 with 454 Power Distribution Wiring Diagram may help you isolate your problem.
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Old 09-06-2014, 04:52 PM   #31
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Ok folks, I think it might really be fixed this time. I went back to the beginning of this post & re-read everything. I started at the chassis battery and followed the ground path which looked good until I re-tested the chassis ground strap. I just replaced the strap a few days ago so assumed all was well but it was not. I was not getting a good connection at the point where the strap bolts to the frame. Even though I had cleaned the area with a wire brush until it looked clean, there were high spots around the hole so the cable did not have a solid connection. I ground it down flat and then was able to see a good connection through the meter. I also took some other good advice that was offered and added another ground cable from the battery negative to the engine block. I then operated the starter more than 20 times as quick as possible and my mystery wire never got hot! And no slow cranking! Before it was getting hot after 3 or 4 quick starts. I am currently at a motorcross event in SE Oklahoma and yes I did drive it here. I stopped for fuel after driving about 150 miles and had no issues restarting and no hot wire. Outside temps were in the high 90s during the drive. So it looks good so far. Thanks to all of you, I probably would never have figured this out. Thank you , thank you, thank you!!!!
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Old 09-06-2014, 05:06 PM   #32
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Glad you got it figured out and repaired. Enjoy your adventures and be safe.
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Old 09-06-2014, 06:41 PM   #33
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Yup we told you it had to be the ground strap... Glad you got it fixed.

Those kind of issues can be a major pain in the operating system.
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Old 09-06-2014, 07:18 PM   #34
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When you get home pull it back apart and add a star washer and electric grease in the mating areas and make sure it is cood n tight.
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Old 09-07-2014, 11:46 AM   #35
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Great idea on the star washer & I've got di-electric grease here with me so I'll do it right now. My daughter has about an hour til her next race so I need something to do. She just got a first place win with only one race left to end this season. Then my old heart can relax a bit! Thanks again guys.
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Old 09-07-2014, 03:27 PM   #36
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True story... Had a car once that every once in a while I had to jump start it.. Turns out the alternator was hanging in when the car was off and it sucks MAJOR amps when it's not turning.....

Started measuring voltage and somehow measured between the engine and the alternator housing.. VOLTAGE PRESENT.

Added a star washer under one of the mounting bolts and ... No more tribble.
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Old 09-07-2014, 11:48 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gnsgn1 View Post
Great idea on the star washer & I've got di-electric grease here with me so I'll do it right now. My daughter has about an hour til her next race so I need something to do. She just got a first place win with only one race left to end this season. Then my old heart can relax a bit! Thanks again guys.
It may not interfere with the ground because it will be pushed out of the way, but di-electric grease is an insulator, the opposite of what you want in this case. I would recommend paint over the connection to prevent corrosion.
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