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Old 04-01-2012, 05:26 AM   #43
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Flea, I bet you're the life of a party. If you're married, it is probably out of pity. Have you no sense of humor?

Some of us like to have fun in life and don't take everything like it's a life or death situation. We'll get this thing fixed and have some fun doing so. Did you know that the first carburetor was a soup can?
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Old 04-01-2012, 09:26 AM   #44
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The common ground in this "social forum" is the "transparent" advise given is what I thought.Errr,maybe not is what ya saying...............just bla,bla,blaI'll end my entry into this off topic venture here.

My msg to the O/P is post some pictures for me and I will take your problem seriously to try to help you out.
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Old 04-01-2012, 10:15 AM   #45
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Flea, why would you want to get serious when the OP is enjoying the, so called, off topic posts?
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Old 04-01-2012, 10:17 AM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BFlinn181 View Post
There is no such thing as suck. Higher pressure air pushes into lower pressure area, thus there is no suck, only push.
Guys, I was a science teacher for over 30 years, I had the above on a sign in the front of my room for when students exclaimed, "That sucks!" I'd just point to the sign. It also made kids think and offer up questions like, "Well then how does a vacuum cleaner work?" These questions are what teachers live for, it opens the door into a closed mind.

That being said, Let the OP change filters, run some seafoam through, and see what happens. Today its hard to find a good carb mech, they've gone the way of the dinosaurs.

jrcnlc, your suggestion of a clogged, collapsed exhaust got me thinking too. I had to nurse a Ford van 18 miles (luckily all downhill out of Togwatee Pass, WY) to a shop. Same symtoms as OP, no power past idle. Turned out the catalytic conv. had turned into nuggets that tumbled around and clogged outlet. Shut it down, they would fall away, and open it up. It would start and run ok, put gas too it again, then re-clog.
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Old 04-01-2012, 10:51 AM   #47
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I sold a Kawasaki 350 to a friend. He adjusted the auto oil injection by the book instead of where I had it for years. After a couple of months, it wouldn't even start. Turned out the exhaust baffles were plugged up with oil sludge.
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Old 04-01-2012, 04:25 PM   #48
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[QUOTE=BFlinn181;1131220]Guys, I was a science teacher for over 30 years, I had the above on a sign in the front of my room for when students exclaimed, "That sucks!" I'd just point to the sign. It also made kids think and offer up questions like, "Well then how does a vacuum cleaner work?" These questions are what teachers live for, it opens the door into a closed mind.

That being said, Let the OP change filters, run some seafoam through, and see what happens. Today its hard to find a good carb mech, they've gone the way of the dinosaurs.

jrcnlc, your suggestion of a clogged, collapsed exhaust got me thinking too. I had to nurse a Ford van 18 miles (luckily all downhill out of Togwatee Pass, WY) to a shop. Same symtoms as OP, no power past idle. Turned out the catalytic conv. had turned into nuggets that tumbled around and clogged outlet. Shut it down, they would fall away, and open it up. It would start and run ok,

Not real big a fixes in a can.At times it just masks the repair that should have been done in the first place. It still leaves us wondering if he has a TBI or carb.That is a world of difference in how to handle it.
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Old 04-01-2012, 07:13 PM   #49
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well, fleamarketer, as others have said, it's gotta be fun, and i sure do like to smell all the roses along the way, even the stinkie ones! btw, since you id'd yourself as a rant (temporary, of course), take a look at the op's very firstest post in this thread... i think the guy said right up front it was a carb, even noted the motorcraft carb tag number! also, in a number of posts he also mentioned looking at different parts of the CARB in response to inquiries from others. the teacher amongst us would have you at the blackboard for missin' all that,. huh?

btw, i know what the op had in mind, 'casue i'm sorta the op. and i do enjoy all the comments and suggestions, no matter how far afield they may be. as the man said, litenup, it's all for fun and pleasure. and i still think all of you are great for helping me out here.

am aka op
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Old 04-02-2012, 12:06 AM   #50
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Nobody on Earth knows how caburators work, except for some of the early SUs and Amal carbs of my childhood. "Carburator" is a French irregular verb that means "leave well enough alone".

I feel for your frustration, having had a 1985 460 Ford Class C with one of those devilish devices. The only advice I can offer is to get another engine with EFI, or junk the rig and buy one that had fuel injection. We managed to sell our old turkey and got a newer rig with EFI.
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Old 04-02-2012, 08:51 AM   #51
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Let me try this approach,
The $5 manual for your Holley 4180C carburator (e6jl ab) is here: Holley 4180C Service Manual
It should give you a lot of information about your carb from how it works to how to rebuild and adjust it.

The overhaul kit is here: CK304 carburetor kit for Holley 4180C

It appears to use the plastic floats that tend to degrade with time loosing their ability to "float" anymore. So replace them also: F53 Carburetor Float

One of the main sources of a loss of fuel problem is old rubber fuel line hoses which crack allowing air to enter the system. You can have 6-7 PSI of air pressure at the carb (vapor lock) rather than 6-7 PSI of liquid gas. Carb does not run on air Yes, a carb only uses 5-7PSI of pressure. Anything larger will not let the floats close the fuel inlet needle which floods the carb. The rubber hoses are used at various points to connect metal fuel lines together from the fuel tank all the way to carb. My Dodge based MH had this problem last year and the magic mark was drive 12 miles and it started dieing on me. Was no fun dropping the fuel tanks to replace hoses.

I do not believe the stock configuration has a fuel return line but rather vapor return lines. There are other components to this vapor return system. If there is a "Y" in the line that may have been a previous owner mod to try and solve the problem. If so, then that is not the proper way to try to fix it. In general (yes there are a few exceptions i.e some Jeeps), they only use fuel return lines on EFI based systems. For the most part however, they only used Vapor return lines on carbs. Used to capture gas vapor while engine is not running and return it to the gas tank when engine is started. When engine is running, the vapor is consummed by the engine (not getting into the sucking or presurized topic ).

Sometimes, the vented fuel tank cap gets clogged and does not allow the tank to vent resulting in a vacuum tank. Try removing the gas cap and then drive it to see if the problem is there.

You however did say, you smell unburned fuel. Could be the floats going bad. You need to start by either rebuilding the carb or replacing it (expensive?). And make sure you have no vacuum leaks.

Google Holley 4180c for information about working on this carb. It was used in several different application (car and truck) so some stuff may not directly apply. It will however give you many insights as to how the various components fit and work together.

Hope this helps you get back on track.

Dave
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Old 04-02-2012, 09:39 AM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by allegroman View Post
well, fleamarketer, as others have said, it's gotta be fun, and i sure do like to smell all the roses along the way, even the stinkie ones! btw, since you id'd yourself as a rant (temporary, of course), take a look at the op's very firstest post in this thread... i think the guy said right up front it was a carb, even noted the motorcraft carb tag number! also, in a number of posts he also mentioned looking at different parts of the CARB in response to inquiries from others. the teacher amongst us would have you at the blackboard for missin' all that,. huh?

btw, i know what the op had in mind, 'casue i'm sorta the op. and i do enjoy all the comments and suggestions, no matter how far afield they may be. as the man said, litenup, it's all for fun and pleasure. and i still think all of you are great for helping me out here.

am aka op

I basically read/skimmed two pages of B.S. and one post there you weren't sure what you had given the fact your model comes with both systems.

So if I am to assume you have a carb,I want you to go in your house bathroom.Take the lid off your toilet.Flush the toilet and you will see a "float" drop allowing the water to enter the reserve tank.Once that tank is full the same float turns off the water.The same thing is happening in your carb.There are two floats the turn on and off as the demand are for the primary and secondary circuits demand the flow of gas.If one of those floats wt is off due to corrosion or one or both floats have a pin hole in them the engine will have a rich condition.Those float are connected to "needle and seats".It is the valve that turns the gas on and off.If one of those are gummed up,it will not shut down the gas properly.Yepper a rich condition again.The way to understand a carb is to think of the gas flow as you would for a electrical circuit with each valve in mind as to what it's function is.Example is the idle circuit controlling how rich the mixture is.It is also where the "fixes in a can" are of no value because your removing deposits on parts to operate correctly need replacing.Like a needle and seat.

The Motorcraft carbs was never Ford's strongest suit.They are rebuild-able,but you just keep doing the same things to them over and over again.The short list to replace the Motorcraft is a Edelbrock AFB.Often you can just take it out of the box and it's good to go.Edelbrock has great tech support as well for any tuning you might want to do.They are a daily driver carb that will give you tons of reliability.That is the same as any carb for long term storage.You need to treat you gas with the proper amount of Stab-bil to prevent the gas from turning into varnish.Shelf life is two to three weeks.We know that time line from manufactures recommendation in small engine business.The same applies to toady's gas for the motor homes which do see often more storage than use.

I don't recall if you have done this already,but establish a good foundation with fresh cap,rotor,plug wires,and plugs.
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Old 04-02-2012, 10:18 AM   #53
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Dave, you simply amaze me. No matter what the topic, you somehow, always come up with the right answer and links to prove it, unlike some "experts" on this and other forums. Some might say you have too much time on your hands. Thanks... Again!

I always liked the Carter AFB carbs(can you tell I'm a Cheby guy?). In fact, I have two "Carter AFB Competition Series" 4 barrels just sitting around collecting dust. One has an electric choke. No tags, but there are numbers stamped on one of the mounting flanges. The elec choke one is 9635SA 0223(The A is probably for "auto" choke) and the other is 9605S 2655. The butterflies are Primary - 2-289 and Secondary - 2-281. They sure would look good sitting atop a 6-71 puffer. Everything I own is EFI, so I don't see any immediate use for them.
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Old 04-02-2012, 10:51 AM   #54
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Our 565 RED is a 5 vent Holley on Alky.Well is started as a Holley,but is far from it now.
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Old 04-02-2012, 10:56 AM   #55
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I don't plan on taking my MH on a trip till Oct. Flea, how much Sta-bil do I need for ~50 gallons of gas? Their site recommends 10oz/25 gallons of ethanol gas.
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Old 04-02-2012, 11:02 AM   #56
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Flea, what's a 565 RED? Google came up with anywhere from a Road to a Cummins.

If you want something "Stinky", I have a `97 Dodge Ram Diesel that I call Stinky.
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