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Old 04-02-2012, 07:57 PM   #71
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I put an after-market EFI on my 350 HP, turbo VW sandrail, and it took forever to get the transition from idle to mid-range dialed in. Going from a draw thru Weber 2 barrel to EFI with individual injectors cut my custom race fuel bill in half.

That's another option for AR. Doesn't Holley make an add on EFI or TBI?
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Old 04-02-2012, 10:51 PM   #72
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Yeah but they are like the Fast Systems.They will nickel dime you to death.At least with Edelbrock you face the bill once and your done.
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Old 04-02-2012, 11:06 PM   #73
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I used the Simply Digital System(SDS) EM-5 system. EM-5 Specifications
It comes with a hand held programmer that you can either leave on or take off.
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Old 04-03-2012, 04:45 AM   #74
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Going back to the topic at hand bud.

Any updates??.
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Old 04-03-2012, 07:28 AM   #75
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Did you see my post on page 4 (so how does a carb work, anyhow?)? Might have got lost in the off topic rant.

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Old 04-03-2012, 08:28 AM   #76
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I saw it Dave. If I remember right, it was something about a motorcycle carb. Maybe it had some commercial implications and it got hit with the "Delete" stick. It's not on any page.
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Old 04-03-2012, 08:57 AM   #77
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Here a link about EFI conversions if he wants to make that move.

EFI For Every Guy - Popular Hot Rodding Magazine
http://www.massfloefi.com/


http://www.massfloefi.com/
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Old 04-06-2012, 06:36 AM   #78
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ford used several designs of carbs. On was a variable vantura,the diaphragm that operates the slides go bad.Other than that check your floats,and buy a carb.kit and rebuild your carb. take it apart lay it out,clean it,put it back together. read the specs.and set the floats by the directions.That is critical,Do not over tighten seats,they need to be tight but not usually as tight as they come out. corrosion usually makes them tighter coming out. Good luck
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Old 04-07-2012, 12:14 AM   #79
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To replace his carb with EFI it would cost about $3,000, not including installation! The OP only drives a few miles to a local preserve, in an '88 RV. Getting a little off topic, I think.
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Old 04-07-2012, 01:04 AM   #80
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Yeah, but some people find it fun to spend other people's money.

AR, have you changed a/the fuel filter(s) yet?
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Old 04-07-2012, 01:28 AM   #81
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too many irons in the fire...

i have been burning my candle at both ends, middle and anywhere else i can find wax, so forgive me for not jumping into my repairs right away. however, your input is read and well taken. thank you. also, what i read here lingers betwixt the ears, and runs as an app in the background. when i actually do begin getting dirty, i'll probably have the solution in hand.

however, my op asked for help understanding how carbs work... here's another symptom for which i need the cause: if i don't start it about once a week it won't start as usual.

usual is to key on, count to 10, pump onct, then crank and it'll start on the first spin or so, every time. count is to allow fuel pump to get a good flow??? the pump bit is to work the accelerator pump to squirt some of what's in the carb bowl into the intake, i guess.

if i don't start for more than a week, the routine fails me, and i crank intermittently for maybe 5 or 10 mins or more, then let it rest for 5, then it starts as usual. i'm thinking after a week or so, the gas in the bowl goes away someplace.

1) so my current question is, what might be failing in the carb that allows the bowl gas to go mia?

2) i might also add, that i don't see why it would take the fuel pump so long to refill the bowl so it would start.

3) also, another question: is it typical to have to rely on the accelerator pump's first squirt to get it started, or should the engine be able to start just by sucking gas thru the venturies etc?


am
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Old 04-07-2012, 02:05 AM   #82
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I had a Rochester 2bbl on a Ford 360 that had the same easy start when ran regularly, hard start if sat too long, problem. That's how I knew it needed a new kit in the carb (sometimes called rebuild kit). Pretty sure it was a weak accel pump trying to work a dead dry fuel path after it sat, and once it started and primed the full fuel path then subsequent starts were easy. The kits were cheap, took about an hour 15, there were certain quirks about getting the hoses & small parts all back correctly that a coupla cell phone fotos woulda made much easier, but no such phones then. A friend still owns that '73; maybe I'll buy it back.

Could also be the jet needs to be cleared of dried gas or the jet path to the bowl needs cleaning. I always did a liberal carb cleaner job on that when kitting it, so coulda been either one, or maybe just the truck responding to a little love.
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Old 04-07-2012, 02:52 AM   #83
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I had a `66, 1 barrel, I6, Mustang that was the same way. It doesn't matter what make, model or year, that's just the way carbs are. The bowl is vented to the outside air and gasoline will evaporate. Now..., my Corvette rail motor is EFI and even though it hasn't been started in over 2 weeks, it is still holding 50 PSI fuel pressure. Normal operating PSI is 58 lbs.

As far as I know, carb'd fuel pumps don't have a check valve like an EFI system does. Nominal carb'd pump pressure of 4-7 pounds is probably not enough to keep a check valve totally sealed.

Just a guess, but I suspect a weak fuel pump along with a partially clogged line and/or fuel filter. Once you get fresh gas circulating, it partially dissolves whatever might be blocking the flow of fuel.

After the `stang sat for over a month, it wouldn't start at all. I couldn't poke a wire or blow 120 PSIs of air into the tank from the line that fed the pump. I had to drain what I could out of the tank, remove the bottom pick-up tube and actually drill it out. It was totally blocked with a brown crud. My front yard smelled like stale gas for weeks. After that, it would start fine, if, I started it almost every day. My bad, I didn't use Sea Foam or Sta-bil.
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Old 04-07-2012, 06:20 AM   #84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by allegroman View Post
i have been burning my candle at both ends, middle and anywhere else i can find wax, so forgive me for not jumping into my repairs right away. however, your input is read and well taken. thank you. also, what i read here lingers betwixt the ears, and runs as an app in the background. when i actually do begin getting dirty, i'll probably have the solution in hand.

however, my op asked for help understanding how carbs work... here's another symptom for which i need the cause: if i don't start it about once a week it won't start as usual.

usual is to key on, count to 10, pump onct, then crank and it'll start on the first spin or so, every time. count is to allow fuel pump to get a good flow??? the pump bit is to work the accelerator pump to squirt some of what's in the carb bowl into the intake, i guess.

if i don't start for more than a week, the routine fails me, and i crank intermittently for maybe 5 or 10 mins or more, then let it rest for 5, then it starts as usual. i'm thinking after a week or so, the gas in the bowl goes away someplace.

1) so my current question is, what might be failing in the carb that allows the bowl gas to go mia?

2) i might also add, that i don't see why it would take the fuel pump so long to refill the bowl so it would start.

3) also, another question: is it typical to have to rely on the accelerator pump's first squirt to get it started, or should the engine be able to start just by sucking gas thru the venturies etc?


am
The "1 pump" is to engage the choke on the carb.

I recently had a similar problem on my 87 (hard start after sitting a while). While working on something else, I noticed the front bowl was wet where it attached to the carb body, and the intake manifold was also wet under the bowl. Long story short, replaced the front (and rear) bowl gaskets, and accelerator pump and gasket. Just doing that made a HUGE difference in the ease of starting, idle quality, and even a little more "pep" in performance. And you can do it without pulling the carb and screwing up the linkage adjustments.

Based on everything else you have posted, I would just pull the carb and rebuild it. Sounds lie you have several issues with it, and need a complete rebuild to correct them instead of trying to figure out the cause of just 1 or 2 issues. Fix it all, fix it right, fix it ONCE.
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