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Old 06-24-2019, 01:23 AM   #1
FFG
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Solar panel install - drill the roof or something else?

Got all the parts now to complete my solar install - Eco Worthy 100w fixed mono panel, charge controller (Epever 20a MPPT), fuses, cable, MC4 connectors, panel roof mounts and entry gland, MT50 controller and temperature sensor, plus a 600w inverter. Its going on an aluminum roof in a 1995 Itasca Passage. My concern is drilling a hole for the wire entry in the roof as I have no idea where any of the services (wires/pipes etc) are under the roof skin. Or do I get the cables inside via an alternative method, suggestions much appreciated?
I was gong to run the wires temporarily through the roof vent in the toilet but this wouldn't be a permanent solution so may as we;ll just go with the end game to start with.
I'm planning on securing with 3M VHB and some Sikaflex 221 around the brackets. Also thinking of an angled piece of aluminum (v shape) to sit in font of the panel to deflect the wind over the panel as this could easily be replaced if it comes off.
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Old 06-24-2019, 09:02 AM   #2
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I'd think twice about blocking air flow to the panel. These panels produce less power when they heat up so you want that air flow under them.
Most people go through the roof vent for the fridge. I once went down the side of the coach using screw clips and then some caulk to hold them securely. The mist resent time I did it I had no fridge roof vent so I did go through the roof. Is is taking a chance that you will damage some wires or AC venting. I was able to see that all of my vents were in a line and so safely choose a spot. There aren't a whole lot of wires up there so I just drilled. It worked out fine. If you have a control panel you can go through the top of that compartment. You can then push the wires through the floor where the others go without drilling the floor.
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Old 06-24-2019, 10:31 AM   #3
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The panel will be on supports so will have airflow but I'm adding a piece in front of it to deflect the wind when driving so it doesn't want to take off. I resealed the fridge vent yesterday and it only occurred to me today that I should have gone through that as it is raised and I could angle the cable up so water runs away. I did feed a cable through that void so I can put an LED strip light in the wardrobe - didn't want to drill blind before as had no idea what was behind there.
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Old 06-25-2019, 06:55 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FFG View Post
The panel will be on supports so will have airflow but I'm adding a piece in front of it to deflect the wind when driving so it doesn't want to take off. I resealed the fridge vent yesterday and it only occurred to me today that I should have gone through that as it is raised and I could angle the cable up so water runs away. I did feed a cable through that void so I can put an LED strip light in the wardrobe - didn't want to drill blind before as had no idea what was behind there.
If you have that fridge vent then that is the best. Drilling blind is always a risk.

I did have a panel sail away once. I watched as a Prius dodged back and forth and avoided it. I was doing 60 into a 40mph headwind in 114f heat and the combination was just too much for the factory supplied fitments. I redid the mounting brackets with oversized and it was fine after that. The panel survived! It produces electricity to this day! I think if you use the suggested 3M adhesive tape and a screw each in the front you will be fine.
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Old 06-27-2019, 05:45 PM   #5
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I ran all my wires down the fridge vent. Best to keep them away from the side with the boiler if you can. I ran mine in flexible conduit but it was a pain to do.
I mounted my Renogy panels to the roof with their mounts and screws. I did use Gutter adhesive/sealant from Home Depot after cleaning each mount location with alcohol. I would position the panel and mark where the mounts were then drill one mount hole. Then I would move the panel and put a thick layer (3/8" or so) of the adhesive over the entire footprint of the mount. I would squirt adhesive into each drilled screw hole then put the screw in just barely tight. Then a thick layer of adhesive over the top of the mount and screws. Let harden thoroughly before driving.
I drove last year in 70 mph winds and had to rope the slide topper in place but the panels were fine.
I should include I have a fiberglass roof.
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Old 06-27-2019, 06:45 PM   #6
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Old 06-29-2019, 10:13 AM   #7
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Solar panel wiring down through gray water tank vent pipe

I'd already extended the black ABS vent pipe up through the roof of my trailer a little bit farther than they had been. And I'd already added ABS "tee" fittings to provide better odor removal than the stock vent pipe covers provided. I ran the solar cable into the tee fitting for the vent pipe, and then brought the wire out of the vent pipe under the coat closet. From there it was an easy run to the charge controller. To bring the 10 gauge 2-conductor solar wiring out of the vent pipe I first made a tap out of a 4-inch long 1/2" diameter galvanized pipe nipple. I cut a 2" ABS slip fitting in half, and drilled a pilot hole through it and then tapped it with my home-made pipe tap. I glued the half-slip fitting onto the vent pipe, and then drilled on into the vent pipe once the glue had dried. I used the homemade tap again to continue the threads on into the vent pipe, and then installed a 1/2" plastic cable gland seal to secure the solar cable. Worked great!
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Old 06-29-2019, 01:15 PM   #8
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I would not have used the vent pipe. This is an area that corrosion can happen due to the chemicals, contents of the tanks and the moisture. I know your wire has insulation on it but not a good idea in my thinking.
I have worked on trucks in my job that carried sewage and they do corrode at a surprising rate even here in Arizona.
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Old 06-30-2019, 08:15 AM   #9
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@leadman I agree! I used the bathroom gray water vent pipe, not the black water one. So just soapy water in that tank.
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Old 07-05-2019, 07:15 PM   #10
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Solar panel install - drill the roof or something else?

To the OP do you have a antenna on the roof I would try to find a way down or around that. You know where that comes in go inside and scope it out. Ideally you want to come thru for the easiest route to you batteries. Why can’t you drop thru into a cabinet?
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