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Old 03-10-2016, 01:05 PM   #15
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It sounds like you may be on the right track with the potential gas tank vent problem. However, you might try posting on the 460 website http://www.460ford.com/forum/index.php . They're mainly high performance guys but there are some very sharp people who regularly post there.


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Old 03-10-2016, 01:08 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by adamfolger View Post
I absolutely guarantee that it is the fuel pump. The most common engine problem with that vintage ford 350 was the fuel pump. On a trip to Phoenix Az to Sacramento Ca my sisters rig did that exact sane as you described. Changed the fuel pump and no more problems. Not a cheap pump though...
I see you already changed the fuel pump...new pump is bad also. Three more cents makes a nickel ...
This is not the first time I have heard this. Someone said to bang on the bottom of the tank to get it going again.
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Old 03-10-2016, 04:30 PM   #17
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Look under the driver side frame rail for a large round filter that may have been missed. Mine was plugged solid in 11K miles. My in tank fuel pump failed too and as mentioned this is a very common problem for those year models.
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Old 03-10-2016, 06:12 PM   #18
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You didn't say if the engine temperature gets up when it starts losing power. if it does, you have a stopped up converter that is restricting the exhaust. Your symptoms are identicle to to what mine was doing. If you are handy with wrenches just unbolt the converter and look in it. You should be able to see if it's broken up. If it is, stand it on the end and shake it, bump it on the ground or poke it with a rod or something to get the pieces out. If that's too much trouble replace it with a pipe or install another converter. It can't hurt to check it anyway. I hope your problem is that simple and good luck.
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Old 03-10-2016, 10:01 PM   #19
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no, the temp stays normal. I am not able to get down on the ground to check it out. Have to pay someone to do it. If I had to pay, and someone fixed whatever it is, I would be pleased as punch. However $2500 in repairs , by 2 companies, and nothing is fixed.... Sucks... That's why I am on this forum. More knowledge here than any of those 2 shops. Thanks
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Old 03-10-2016, 11:58 PM   #20
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Again I say it is the fuel pump. The problem is...it is in the tank so some one will have to drop the tank to get at it. There is only one fuel pump. You also have a fuel filter on the driverside frame rail. If you have not changed that, I would do so before droping the tank. You will need the filter removal tool with a new filter. Napa has them. If the tank is full of fuel it will be very heavy. You could get several fuel cans at Walmart and a siphon pump to empty the tank and then drop it and replace the fuel pump. Hope this helps...
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Old 03-11-2016, 12:06 AM   #21
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Sorry....didn't see that last post about not being able to get down on the ground. ANd that sucks because you have to have it done. It also sucks that there is no law prohibiting BOLT ON MECHANICS who have no clue.
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Old 03-11-2016, 12:18 AM   #22
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Quote:
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You asked for ideas.

If all of this work is being done in one shop, it's time to find another.

Points ? Not in a 1990 engine.
And that makes the entire repair bill suspect and who knows if they actually did replace the fuel pump.
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Old 03-11-2016, 05:53 AM   #23
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My wife's car did that, bad convertor, they should be able to tell with a infrared thermometer. I hate when supposed professionals throw parts at a vehicle because they are not good trouble shooters! Hey, I can do that myself with the help from autozone. Make them guys refund some of your money back, if you used a credit card, you might be able to do that. You didn't get what you paid for, just irks me. Wish you well
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Old 03-11-2016, 08:56 AM   #24
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Buy a can of starting fluid and keep it in the unit.

Pop the hood and locate the air intake.

While engine is running squirt just a tiny shot into it to confirm the engine reacts to it but only a confirmation shot.

Next time it fails quickly grab that can and while a helper cranks the unit squirt it into the intake and if it starts up and runs while squirting and stops when you stop it is a fuel problem.

If not it is ignition problem.

We had a 1989 ford that had intermittent controller did same and injectors would not work.

Did above to confirm fuel delivery was problem and confirmed fuel pressure at engine before swapping computer.

Tossing parts not correct process.

Part needs to be swapped only after confirmed bad or if can be test swapped that is okay.

Test swap is when a part can be placed then removed if not needed but often labor place trumps this.

Codes difficult with pre OBDII units but some are possible.
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Old 03-17-2016, 02:42 PM   #25
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I have a '91 with a 460 and have had the same problem. I noticed that it only happens when the outside temperature is high, we drove from the central plains to New England in cooler weather and had no problem, yet while in the southwest we couldn't make it from Phx to Payson without it stalling and not starting. I have found online a remedy for my problem. What was the outside temp when you had the problem?
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Old 03-17-2016, 06:56 PM   #26
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Mine is a '90 w/351 windsor, same symptom. bought it 2yrs ago, replaced everything, to enclude both fuel tanks, fuel selector valve. drove it to FL & back. Got back home , symptom started again...now have fuel into rail pump, nothing out. Another new pump inside van but not installed as yet - bought a '92 Foretravel grand villa - don't need the class B now!!! Put another pump on yours.

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Old 03-17-2016, 07:40 PM   #27
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Quote:
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I have a '91 with a 460 and have had the same problem. I noticed that it only happens when the outside temperature is high, we drove from the central plains to New England in cooler weather and had no problem, yet while in the southwest we couldn't make it from Phx to Payson without it stalling and not starting. I have found online a remedy for my problem. What was the outside temp when you had the problem?
A bad fuel pump will act just like vapor lock. Hot weather, hard hill climbs, running the generator sucking fuel from the tank, thing begins to falter, lose power, and then stalls. Let it cool for 30-60 minutes and it will start right up. Especially if the tank is down to 1/2 or a bit lower.

Save yourself some misery and change the in tank fuel pump and find all of the filters. Mine had one along the frame beneath the driver. It was supposedly good for lots more miles but I did not drive that many and it just plugged up.
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Old 03-17-2016, 07:41 PM   #28
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Never was hot.December-February in Northern Florida....
.What solution did you find online?
What sucks is with all the great responses here, I still can't find the answer.....Still can't take the camper anywhere farther than 100 miles....love the motorhome, but can't put up with this...will junk it if we can't figure it out....
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