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Old 03-17-2016, 07:48 PM   #29
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So far suggestions include:
in tank fuel pump, on rail fuel pump, muffler,ignition module, distributor cap, fuel filter, gas cap
changed so far:
in tank fuel pump, on rail fuel pump, muffler,ignition module, distributor cap, fuel filter, gas cap
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Old 03-17-2016, 08:40 PM   #30
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Did anyone ever test the fuel pressure? My problem with blaming the fuel pump is that nothing changed when the pump was changed if the new pump was junk I would expect it to act differently (like not run at all or run rough). I question why they changed the muffler without touching the catalytic converter did they check temperatures before and after the converter mufflers seldom cause an engine quit they usually rust out and get noisy but converters do plug up.

Sorry your still having issues I figured you had found the problem when you stopped posting. Don't give up the 460 engine is a good engine finding a fair to good mechanic is the hard part.
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Old 03-17-2016, 09:24 PM   #31
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Try simply unplugging the computer which if I can remember correctly is on the passenger side under the ac and is a knuckle buster to get to.

Look at the connections to see if dry or cruddy.

Ours dropped dead one day and this was long after computer swapped.

Just for fun we loosened the retainer and worked it up and down a few times then tightened it up and ir ran fine.

On yours what does it do or not do when it dies?

You need to look for spark and other issues asap when it fails and not wait until it cools.

Get an ir thermometer from HF as they are handy and not too much coin.

You can scan the exhaust and fuel pump as well as most everything else while running okay and warmed up then scan everything when it dies to see if something is different.

Colder means it is likely not doing anything and hotter likely overloaded or clogged.

Could be intermittent roll over switch.

That switch turns off power to fuel pump in case of an accident.
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Old 03-17-2016, 09:51 PM   #32
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My SIL had a problem with her Suburban, she would be running down the highway and it would die. She would wait ~1 hr and it would start and she could drive it again. Took it to a mechanic and he said fuel pump but wanted $$$$$ to fix.

She brought it from FL to TN and my mechanic changed the fuel pump for ~1/3 what she was quoted.

I started having trouble with my Suburban starting, my mechanic suggested fuel pump. Never changed one before but I figure what the heck. Did some checking an a new fuel pump was $35 on Ebay. Ordered it and when I got it I ran as much fuel out of the tank as practical. Backed it up on my ramps, dropped the tank, disconnected the lines, pulled the old fuel pump, put the tank back in and everything has been great since.

$35 buck for a new fuel pump, who'd a thought!!!!!
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Old 03-17-2016, 10:22 PM   #33
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thanks. i am going to mechanic in the morning to ask all the questions you folks have asked. thanks. will let you know
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Old 03-19-2016, 11:02 AM   #34
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Haven't heard anything in a while just curious, did you have any luck with your mechanic?
Are you still on the road or did you get it home?
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Old 03-19-2016, 02:41 PM   #35
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We have it

We got it home. Took it camping last week. but only 60 miles away, so not sure , as it normally breaks down at about 80 miles. Did go to the mechanic yesterday,with a list of things you guys suggested to try. He is going to redo the intank fuel pump, since for some reason, the gas guage stopped working..... is gonna check tach, and rpms...will have to wait til monday or tuesday to get it back into him.I have to head up north in less than a month, I hope something works.
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Old 03-19-2016, 06:24 PM   #36
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Fuel pumps do not stop pumping with the engine running normally. They just fail to start up when first turned on.
The three most common items that do this are the PIP sensor, ICM and the PCM Computer.
With the age on it I would say pull the PCM out, open it up and see if any of the three caps are leaking. It does not cost anything to open it up and look. I bet they are. All three caps cost about $1.00. Just remove them and solder in the new caps and the PCM will be good ~20 years.

Just make sure the replacements are the same or higher voltage and watch to make sure they go in the right way. The NEG side goes to the round solder point and the + side to the square solder point.
Over on the Ford site we replace these caps all the time on this vintage PCM Computers.
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Old 03-20-2016, 11:02 AM   #37
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I've had a similar problem with a 94 Ford 460. Sputter, stall, sometimes start right up, sometimes after a short time, sometimes long time. I finally got it fixed at Yellowstone Park. Not by a mechanic but by guess and by gosh.
I had been planing our trip and wanted the best reliability possible. With this in mind I replaced every fuse,and RELAY, in the unit. The problem was, the old fuel pump relay worked fine. The new one, not so well. Luck for me,I kept the old relays in my toolbox. After watching a mechanic beat on the fuel tank, we switched the fuel pump relay to the old, identical, relay, and no more problems.
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Old 03-21-2016, 12:41 PM   #38
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fuel pump

Does anyone know if the in-tank fuel pump assembly is different or the same in a motorhome on an E350 chassis , and a E350 van? Has anyone ever gone to Autozone or O'Reileys and got one for their motorhome?
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Old 03-21-2016, 05:34 PM   #39
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You said the all of the fuel pumps have all ready been replaced. And I told you above in post #36 the fuel pumps do not quit while the engine is running going down the road.

Did you not read my post #36 above?
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Old 03-21-2016, 06:24 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subford View Post
You said the all of the fuel pumps have all ready been replaced. And I told you above in post #36 the fuel pumps do not quit while the engine is running going down the road.

Did you not read my post #36 above?
yes I read you post. I read them all.
Haven't had time to consider pulling the PCM computer out and working on it. Sounds like something I would inclined to pay someone to fix if needed.
Thanks for the post, cuz I am open to all advise.
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Old 03-21-2016, 08:58 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subford View Post
the fuel pumps do not quit while the engine is running going down the road.
why do you say the fuel pumps do not quit while the engine is running?
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Old 03-21-2016, 09:50 PM   #42
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The problem with fuel pumps that have seen is getting them to start up. Once they are running they just keep going. That is why if you hit the bottom of the fuel tank to get them to start running they will make it to where you are going if you never shut off the engine with a bad start up fuel pump.

Of course a fuel pump can stop pumping with the engine running if it looses power to it. But what I am saying if the power is not dropped to it we have not heard of the pump itself stopping. In other words if the fuel pump stops pumping while running it is not the fuel pumps fault, it is something else.
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