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Old 03-23-2016, 06:32 PM   #43
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I got an Airtex pump for mine off Amazon. It depends on your fuel tank size and what ohm reading the sender needs to be for you gauge to work correctly. I replaced both fuel pumps and filters since I got my motorhome and also tested my fuel pressure to the injectors. My original pump in the tank quit one day. I could bump the tank and it would start but would quit again later so I just replaced it. I haven't had any fuel problems since then. You can supply voltage to a plug under the hood to check the pump to see if it runs. You must have good ground connections. Bad grounds can cause all sorts of problems. The only time mine had a reduced power or dying while driving was when the converter was stopped up. The only time it wouldn't start is when I had to bump the tank to get the pump to start. I have read many articles on this site which helped a lot. Most problems are pretty simple to fix but narrowing it down can take a lot of thought and crawling around under the motorhome.
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Old 03-24-2016, 09:29 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by azonsite View Post
I have a '91 with a 460 and have had the same problem. I noticed that it only happens when the outside temperature is high, we drove from the central plains to New England in cooler weather and had no problem, yet while in the southwest we couldn't make it from Phx to Payson without it stalling and not starting.
My '92 with a 460 had a fuel pump problem, too.

Can you hear the fuel pump when the MH is running? The in-tank pump is in the tank right behind the back axle. They squeal like a loose belt when they are dying (as subford said, they don't suddenly quit...they just pump less and less and less). You should still be able to hear the quiet whine of a new pump. If its running, your problem is probably upstream of there. There is a fuel pressure test point on the passenger side rail...have a shop connect a test gauge to it and watch it while you are driving. You should still see 25-30+psi at the rail even at WOT.

Quote:
Originally Posted by twinboat View Post
This is not the first time I have heard this. Someone said to bang on the bottom of the tank to get it going again.
So the crud in the tank can get sucked into the prefilter? haha

If you hear the pump, don't bang on the tank.
Only if you can't hear the pump and have no pressure, do you bang on the tank.

Quote:
Originally Posted by subford View Post
The problem with fuel pumps that have seen is getting them to start up. Once they are running they just keep going. That is why if you hit the bottom of the fuel tank to get them to start running they will make it to where you are going if you never shut off the engine with a bad start up fuel pump.

Of course a fuel pump can stop pumping with the engine running if it looses power to it. But what I am saying if the power is not dropped to it we have not heard of the pump itself stopping. In other words if the fuel pump stops pumping while running it is not the fuel pumps fault, it is something else.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zoom45 View Post
I got an Airtex pump for mine off Amazon. It depends on your fuel tank size and what ohm reading the sender needs to be for you gauge to work correctly. I replaced both fuel pumps and filters since I got my motorhome and also tested my fuel pressure to the injectors. My original pump in the tank quit one day. I could bump the tank and it would start but would quit again later so I just replaced it. I haven't had any fuel problems since then. You can supply voltage to a plug under the hood to check the pump to see if it runs. You must have good ground connections. Bad grounds can cause all sorts of problems. The only time mine had a reduced power or dying while driving was when the converter was stopped up. The only time it wouldn't start is when I had to bump the tank to get the pump to start. I have read many articles on this site which helped a lot. Most problems are pretty simple to fix but narrowing it down can take a lot of thought and crawling around under the motorhome.
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Old 04-07-2016, 06:49 PM   #45
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can you just buy a fuel pump assembly from O'riely, or does it have to be specifically for a motorhome?
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Old 04-07-2016, 07:11 PM   #46
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Fuel pump relay
Inertia switch ??????????????
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Old 04-08-2016, 06:53 AM   #47
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.have a shop connect a test gauge to it and watch it while you are driving. You should still see 25-30+psi at the rail even at WOT.
It may not run at those pressures.
At idle yo will have 30-33psi and at WOT about 40psi (39.3psi).
Never more than 40psi unless you are in Death valley California or have blower on it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MT4Runner View Post
If you hear the pump, don't bang on the tank.
Only if you can't hear the pump and have no pressure, do you bang on the tank.
This is a DC motor so the brushes can stick sometimes in their holders and lose contact with the commentator. Then the pump motor will not run. If you bang on the bottom of the tank you might get the brushes to make contact with the commentator again and allow the DC motor for the pump to run again for a while.
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Old 04-08-2016, 07:00 AM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldguyrich View Post
can you just buy a fuel pump assembly from O'riely, or does it have to be specifically for a motorhome?
Sometimes but only if you have the pump (FDM) and hanger it came from the factory with. So you need to find out what pump and hanger you have in the tank first by taking the old one out. Someone may have put something different in it along the way.
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Old 04-13-2016, 07:13 PM   #49
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Did you get the problem figured out?
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Old 04-13-2016, 07:42 PM   #50
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You most likely have a faulty spark control module- $25 part, common symptom for a common fail part

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Old 04-13-2016, 11:42 PM   #51
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Did you get the problem figured out?
Zoom45
no. had eye surgery this week so it will be a couple of days til i can get the motorhome back down to get it fixed/looked at again. am taking notes from all these responses with me to the mechanic, see if that helps. thanks to everyone for the help
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Old 05-05-2016, 12:36 AM   #52
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back in the shop

Ok an update. Took the Flair back to the shop. Last time it was there, they put another intank fuel pump in, but didnt put a sending unit in. ( so no gas guage) so I took it back to have that fixed. We live an hour from there, so we can just drive down and check on it every day. Called today, and the manager says " We are doing you a favor by looking at this..." and was borderline rude. he also said "We are experimenting with this now... Remember, we are working on antiquated machine here....we can't get the original parts" ...will give him til Friday norning and call him again...He didnt keep the original pump assembly, so i cant get the numbers off the pump or sending unit to try to get the correct replacement park...
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Old 05-05-2016, 06:55 AM   #53
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As noted in post #39 & post #42 I dough you have a fuel problem.
Get the RV away form those working on it as they do not know what they are doing and do not understand the systems and how the systems work on your RV.

To bad you do not live a little closer or I would take a look at it for you. But 268 miles is a little far for me to go.
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Old 05-05-2016, 11:18 PM   #54
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maybe right

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Originally Posted by subford View Post
As noted in post #39 & post #42 I dough you have a fuel problem.
.
you may be right, but since they messed up when they replaced the in- tank pump, I want them to redo it before I attempt to drive it off. In prior posts I have listed everything they changed in an effort to fix it.
Since I am in Tampa Florida, I think you are further than 280 miles from me.... I live in Iowa, but we are down here for the winter---until this thing gets fixed....
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Old 05-10-2016, 01:20 PM   #55
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time to go

Ok. The motorhome is still in the shop. Mechanic will not return my calls. I have 7 days to get to a Graduation, 1200 miles away. The motorhome is 1 hour each way away from here. The work i am waiting on is a rework of what I already paid for....I don't even know if the rv is in process of getting fixed, or because it has to be done for free (since they didnt fix it right the first time) that they have put it in the back field to work on paying jobs....
Needs a fuel sending unit, which he claims is too old, and he cant locate one,,,says he doesnt know the capacity of the fuel tank....
Short of killing the mechanic, anyone have any ideas?
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Old 05-10-2016, 01:56 PM   #56
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You do have just one big tank, do you not?
If so it should be a 75 Gal fuel tank.
The fuel sending (gauge sender) is a common part.

New Herko High Performance Fuel Level Sensor FC53 Fuel Pump Sending Unit Ford | eBay

OR
It may be like this one:
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...1997&ppt=C0025


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