Suspension Question

[TRD]

I have been reading the thread "Cheap Handling Fix". I find the information interesting and the procedure seems rather straight forward.

However, I have 2 problems with it. 1. This is for a Ford Chassic. 2. I don't have a Ford Chassic. I have a 1989 C-30 Chevy chassic. The rear bar does not have any type adjustment. It is attached by 4 bushing in metal clamps. 2 of these bushing are connected midway across the bar and the remaining 2 are connected at each end of the bar.

Now, my question. First, I am planning to replace all 4 bushing if spring ever arrives. The 2 bushing at each end of the bar are fastened to a bracket that is connected to the frame. By placing a 1/4 piece of steel plate between the bushing housing and the frame bracket will in an essence, put a 1/4" of additional preload on the bar. Granted, 1/4 inch is not much, but the bar is 1 3/4" (1.75) so in my mind, moving the bar any should help. Question is, will it add enough pre-load to help the sway?

Comments and suggestions are appreciated.

Terry

[Excell]

No you have to get a thicker bar on those. On the Fords we are moving back about two inches .
This is just my opinion I was an auto mechanic for 45 years so it might be a good one .

[ahicks]

Maybe I'm just not following your line of thought, but I don't think shimming the sway bar is capable of adding or subtracting preload? The sway bar is free to pivot at the frame mounts. To reduce roll, you would need to do something that would effectively shorten the arms on the sway bar so body motion would twist the bar more than it does now. Or install a larger diameter bar...

[TRD]

Ahicks, by shimming the end bushing, on each side, in an essences you would be pressing down on the sway bar increasing the pre-load. I'm incline to agree with Darrel a 1/4" would add some additional preload, but most likely not enough. The end results would not justify the effort.

I have ordered new bushing and will replace them. Later I may go to a larger sway bar. I race motorcycles and 99% of the time I am pulling a 16ft enclosed trailer. With the trailer, the sway from passing trucks is not bad, but it increases if I don't have the trailer.

Terry

[pwf16129]

have you thought of using air bags to help the sway? I have a 26 ft class c
and the truck passing induced sway was bad, got my air ride working and figured out the proper pressure for each side and it made a world of difference. hoping in the future to add air ride to front when the budget allows. just a thought

[spritz]

I had AirLift bags put in the coil springs on the front and had AirLift Bags installed on the rear Last season. It made all the difference it still is not prefect but at least 75 percent better, I am having trouble with them keeping air in them this season so far but have notified the installer what was happening and he told me to bring it back in and he will take a look.
I also know that the shocks (they look like original) need to be replaced and I would like to get Koni's installed this season.
I have read allot of good things about them from these forums.

[ahicks]

Originally Posted by TRD

Ahicks, by shimming the end bushing, on each side, in an essences you would be pressing down on the sway bar increasing the pre-load.

Terry

What is there that prevents the sway bar from simply twisting a bit in the bushings holding it to the frame rails?

[BA-in-Mich]

I have replaced the rear springs on mine. ( they were sagging ) Last year I put on Air Lift air bags on the rear. Helped big time but with a short wheel base still not a winner, I am looking into this...Oemy's Web Site - DIY Trac Bar If I have the time I'll build instead of buying one.
One thing with the air bags it will raise the rear a couple of inches which will load the rear sway bar more.

[TRD]

Ahicks, I'm not sure I understand what you are asking. Unlike the Ford chassic which has 2 setting for the rear sway bar, the Chevy P30's has only the mounting point. The end of the bar connected to the frame via a bushing and bracket. In my mind, by adding shims between the bushing and the frame applies downward pressure on the end of the sway bar resulting in more pre-load. But, as someone pointed out, the changes made on the Ford sways bars equal to 2" or more and my DIY fix for the p30 amounted to 1/4 to 1/2 inch. Most likely not enough to notice.

As I said in an earlier post, I am going to replace the bushing since mine are 22years old. Only 46,000 miles, but still 22 year old.

Thanks for the reply

Terry

[ahicks]

When you replace those bushings, if you'll drop both the frame brackets at the same time, I think you'll see what I'm talking about?

Relocating the brackets along the frame - closer to the axle - would have the effect you're looking for I believe?

[PushedAround]

Just kind of stumbled into this thread because it said "suspension" and I have worked on race car suspensions for 40 years. I would like to see a picture of your sway bar, because if it is like a typical unit, there is no "pre-loading" done by raising or lowering the vehicle. Sway bars only get pre-loaded from side to side, and except for circle track racing it is usually not a desireable thing.

That said, a sway bar will not affect the springing of a vehicle, and only acts when it leans, which twists the bar causing a resistance to that lean. It has no effect at all on 2 wheel bumps, or where the vehicle moves up and down.

[spritz]

Originally Posted by spritz

I had AirLift bags put in the coil springs on the front and had AirLift Bags installed on the rear Last season. It made all the difference it still is not prefect but at least 75 percent better, I am having trouble with them keeping air in them this season so far but have notified the installer what was happening and he told me to bring it back in and he will take a look.
I also know that the shocks (they look like original) need to be replaced and I would like to get Koni's installed this season.
I have read allot of good things about them from these forums.

I took it in yesterday and they worked on it while I sat inside reading a boating Magazine (already read my MH magazine). WOW95 percent better, Better ride, Better handling, don't get much sway at all. I drove it over 100 miles after leaving the shop, just couldn't believe the difference and I wanted to hit the road. I am running 70 lbs in the front and 70Lbs in the back. I would highly recommend this shop to everyone. They are a great set of Guys & Gals, NO bull, they look at everything and only recommend when something needs to be done. Not pushy at all. They also redid the exhaust on the MH from the mufflers to the tail pipes looks great and sounds even better. I have had them work on my 1964 deville also, they changed the exhaust from single to dual and had to make all the piping. they did it in Stainless all welded together have had no problems with anything they did. Now I have to get those Koni's.
If your ever in the Twin Cites and have problems give them a call.
Tim, A Happy Camper



13476 Hanson Blvd. NW
Andover, MN 55304
ph: 763-755-4460
fax: 763-755-9858
info@andoverwheelandframe.com

[BA-in-Mich]

Originally Posted by spritz

I took it in yesterday and they worked on it while I sat inside reading a boating Magazine (already read my MH magazine). WOW95 percent better, Better ride, Better handling, don't get much sway at all. I drove it over 100 miles after leaving the shop, just couldn't believe the difference and I wanted to hit the road. I am running 70 lbs in the front and 70Lbs in the back. I would highly recommend this shop to everyone. They are a great set of Guys & Gals, NO bull, they look at everything and only recommend when something needs to be done. Not pushy at all. They also redid the exhaust on the MH from the mufflers to the tail pipes looks great and sounds even better. I have had them work on my 1964 deville also, they changed the exhaust from single to dual and had to make all the piping. they did it in Stainless all welded together have had no problems with anything they did. Now I have to get those Koni's.
If your ever in the Twin Cites and have problems give them a call.
Tim, A Happy Camper



13476 Hanson Blvd. NW
Andover, MN 55304
ph: 763-755-4460
fax: 763-755-9858
info@andoverwheelandframe.com

Did you put Koni's all the way around?

[spritz]

No not yet, I did find them almost $100.00 bucks cheaper this winter (still can't believe that, maybe closeout) for the fronts but not that lucky on the rears. with the air bags working I'm not in a hurry to get them now but I will get them this season.

1982 Pace Arrow 29ft. 454 4bbl 48,000 miles 200hrs on the Owens no headers, toad 1999 deville concours. The guy @ Andover wanted to put headers on but I decided to wait because I feel it has enough power already.
Your rig looks nice and clean.
Tim