Go Back   iRV2 Forums > iRV2.com COMMUNITY FORUMS > Vintage RV's
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 03-26-2013, 01:01 PM   #1
TRD
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Alabama
Posts: 104
Suspension Question

I have been reading the thread "Cheap Handling Fix". I find the information interesting and the procedure seems rather straight forward.

However, I have 2 problems with it. 1. This is for a Ford Chassic. 2. I don't have a Ford Chassic. I have a 1989 C-30 Chevy chassic. The rear bar does not have any type adjustment. It is attached by 4 bushing in metal clamps. 2 of these bushing are connected midway across the bar and the remaining 2 are connected at each end of the bar.

Now, my question. First, I am planning to replace all 4 bushing if spring ever arrives. The 2 bushing at each end of the bar are fastened to a bracket that is connected to the frame. By placing a 1/4 piece of steel plate between the bushing housing and the frame bracket will in an essence, put a 1/4" of additional preload on the bar. Granted, 1/4 inch is not much, but the bar is 1 3/4" (1.75) so in my mind, moving the bar any should help. Question is, will it add enough pre-load to help the sway?

Comments and suggestions are appreciated.

Terry
__________________

__________________
TRD is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 03-29-2013, 12:41 PM   #2
Senior Member
 
Excell's Avatar
 
Ford Super Duty Owner
Georgie Boy Owners Club
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Winnipeg Manitoba
Posts: 315
No you have to get a thicker bar on those. On the Fords we are moving back about two inches .
This is just my opinion I was an auto mechanic for 45 years so it might be a good one .
__________________

__________________
Excell
1999 Georgie Boy Landau 3512 on Ford F53
2006 Mazda Tribute ,2001 Goldwing
Excell is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-30-2013, 08:35 AM   #3
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Snowbird - Waterford Mi and Citrus Springs Fl.
Posts: 3,609
Maybe I'm just not following your line of thought, but I don't think shimming the sway bar is capable of adding or subtracting preload? The sway bar is free to pivot at the frame mounts. To reduce roll, you would need to do something that would effectively shorten the arms on the sway bar so body motion would twist the bar more than it does now. Or install a larger diameter bar...
__________________
1997 37' HR Endeavor, 275hp Cat, Freightliner
03 CR-V Blue Ox, Ready Brake
ahicks is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-30-2013, 09:29 AM   #4
TRD
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Alabama
Posts: 104
Ahicks, by shimming the end bushing, on each side, in an essences you would be pressing down on the sway bar increasing the pre-load. I'm incline to agree with Darrel a 1/4" would add some additional preload, but most likely not enough. The end results would not justify the effort.

I have ordered new bushing and will replace them. Later I may go to a larger sway bar. I race motorcycles and 99% of the time I am pulling a 16ft enclosed trailer. With the trailer, the sway from passing trucks is not bad, but it increases if I don't have the trailer.

Terry
__________________
TRD is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-30-2013, 10:19 AM   #5
Senior Member
 
pwf16129's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 267
have you thought of using air bags to help the sway? I have a 26 ft class c
and the truck passing induced sway was bad, got my air ride working and figured out the proper pressure for each side and it made a world of difference. hoping in the future to add air ride to front when the budget allows. just a thought
__________________
pwf16129 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-30-2013, 02:10 PM   #6
Senior Member
 
spritz's Avatar


 
Vintage RV Owners Club
Fleetwood Owners Club
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: c above
Posts: 4,952
82 Pace arrow,48,000 miles

I had AirLift bags put in the coil springs on the front and had AirLift Bags installed on the rear Last season. It made all the difference it still is not prefect but at least 75 percent better, I am having trouble with them keeping air in them this season so far but have notified the installer what was happening and he told me to bring it back in and he will take a look.
I also know that the shocks (they look like original) need to be replaced and I would like to get Koni's installed this season.
I have read allot of good things about them from these forums.
__________________
spritz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-30-2013, 03:24 PM   #7
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Snowbird - Waterford Mi and Citrus Springs Fl.
Posts: 3,609
Quote:
Originally Posted by TRD View Post
Ahicks, by shimming the end bushing, on each side, in an essences you would be pressing down on the sway bar increasing the pre-load.

Terry
What is there that prevents the sway bar from simply twisting a bit in the bushings holding it to the frame rails?
__________________
1997 37' HR Endeavor, 275hp Cat, Freightliner
03 CR-V Blue Ox, Ready Brake
ahicks is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-30-2013, 07:01 PM   #8
Senior Member
 
BA-in-Mich's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 472
I have replaced the rear springs on mine. ( they were sagging ) Last year I put on Air Lift air bags on the rear. Helped big time but with a short wheel base still not a winner, I am looking into this...Oemy's Web Site - DIY Trac Bar If I have the time I'll build instead of buying one.
One thing with the air bags it will raise the rear a couple of inches which will load the rear sway bar more.
__________________
1990 28' Georgie Boy, 454, 4bbl, Thorley Headers, Recurved Distributor, 8.75 mpg. RVM 76
BA-in-Mich is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-30-2013, 07:20 PM   #9
TRD
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Alabama
Posts: 104
Ahicks, I'm not sure I understand what you are asking. Unlike the Ford chassic which has 2 setting for the rear sway bar, the Chevy P30's has only the mounting point. The end of the bar connected to the frame via a bushing and bracket. In my mind, by adding shims between the bushing and the frame applies downward pressure on the end of the sway bar resulting in more pre-load. But, as someone pointed out, the changes made on the Ford sways bars equal to 2" or more and my DIY fix for the p30 amounted to 1/4 to 1/2 inch. Most likely not enough to notice.

As I said in an earlier post, I am going to replace the bushing since mine are 22years old. Only 46,000 miles, but still 22 year old.

Thanks for the reply

Terry
__________________
TRD is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-30-2013, 07:45 PM   #10
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Snowbird - Waterford Mi and Citrus Springs Fl.
Posts: 3,609
When you replace those bushings, if you'll drop both the frame brackets at the same time, I think you'll see what I'm talking about?

Relocating the brackets along the frame - closer to the axle - would have the effect you're looking for I believe?
__________________
1997 37' HR Endeavor, 275hp Cat, Freightliner
03 CR-V Blue Ox, Ready Brake
ahicks is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-31-2013, 08:36 AM   #11
RVM #74
 
PushedAround's Avatar


 
Tiffin Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Ambler, PA
Posts: 2,853
Blog Entries: 7
Just kind of stumbled into this thread because it said "suspension" and I have worked on race car suspensions for 40 years. I would like to see a picture of your sway bar, because if it is like a typical unit, there is no "pre-loading" done by raising or lowering the vehicle. Sway bars only get pre-loaded from side to side, and except for circle track racing it is usually not a desireable thing.

That said, a sway bar will not affect the springing of a vehicle, and only acts when it leans, which twists the bar causing a resistance to that lean. It has no effect at all on 2 wheel bumps, or where the vehicle moves up and down.
__________________
Larry & Cheryl Oscar, Louie, Ranger & Henry (our Springers)
PushedAround is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-09-2013, 05:56 PM   #12
Senior Member
 
spritz's Avatar


 
Vintage RV Owners Club
Fleetwood Owners Club
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: c above
Posts: 4,952
Follow up

Quote:
Originally Posted by spritz View Post
I had AirLift bags put in the coil springs on the front and had AirLift Bags installed on the rear Last season. It made all the difference it still is not prefect but at least 75 percent better, I am having trouble with them keeping air in them this season so far but have notified the installer what was happening and he told me to bring it back in and he will take a look.
I also know that the shocks (they look like original) need to be replaced and I would like to get Koni's installed this season.
I have read allot of good things about them from these forums.


I took it in yesterday and they worked on it while I sat inside reading a boating Magazine (already read my MH magazine). WOW95 percent better, Better ride, Better handling, don't get much sway at all. I drove it over 100 miles after leaving the shop, just couldn't believe the difference and I wanted to hit the road. I am running 70 lbs in the front and 70Lbs in the back. I would highly recommend this shop to everyone. They are a great set of Guys & Gals, NO bull, they look at everything and only recommend when something needs to be done. Not pushy at all. They also redid the exhaust on the MH from the mufflers to the tail pipes looks great and sounds even better. I have had them work on my 1964 deville also, they changed the exhaust from single to dual and had to make all the piping. they did it in Stainless all welded together have had no problems with anything they did. Now I have to get those Koni's.
If your ever in the Twin Cites and have problems give them a call.
Tim, A Happy Camper



13476 Hanson Blvd. NW
Andover, MN 55304
ph: 763-755-4460
fax: 763-755-9858
info@andoverwheelandframe.com
__________________
spritz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-09-2013, 06:43 PM   #13
Senior Member
 
BA-in-Mich's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 472
Quote:
Originally Posted by spritz View Post
I took it in yesterday and they worked on it while I sat inside reading a boating Magazine (already read my MH magazine). WOW95 percent better, Better ride, Better handling, don't get much sway at all. I drove it over 100 miles after leaving the shop, just couldn't believe the difference and I wanted to hit the road. I am running 70 lbs in the front and 70Lbs in the back. I would highly recommend this shop to everyone. They are a great set of Guys & Gals, NO bull, they look at everything and only recommend when something needs to be done. Not pushy at all. They also redid the exhaust on the MH from the mufflers to the tail pipes looks great and sounds even better. I have had them work on my 1964 deville also, they changed the exhaust from single to dual and had to make all the piping. they did it in Stainless all welded together have had no problems with anything they did. Now I have to get those Koni's.
If your ever in the Twin Cites and have problems give them a call.
Tim, A Happy Camper



13476 Hanson Blvd. NW
Andover, MN 55304
ph: 763-755-4460
fax: 763-755-9858
info@andoverwheelandframe.com
Did you put Koni's all the way around?
__________________
1990 28' Georgie Boy, 454, 4bbl, Thorley Headers, Recurved Distributor, 8.75 mpg. RVM 76
BA-in-Mich is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-10-2013, 10:14 AM   #14
Senior Member
 
spritz's Avatar


 
Vintage RV Owners Club
Fleetwood Owners Club
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: c above
Posts: 4,952
No not yet, I did find them almost $100.00 bucks cheaper this winter (still can't believe that, maybe closeout) for the fronts but not that lucky on the rears. with the air bags working I'm not in a hurry to get them now but I will get them this season.

1982 Pace Arrow 29ft. 454 4bbl 48,000 miles 200hrs on the Owens no headers, toad 1999 deville concours. The guy @ Andover wanted to put headers on but I decided to wait because I feel it has enough power already.
Your rig looks nice and clean.
Tim
__________________

__________________
spritz is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
suspension



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 07:31 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.