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Old 09-06-2011, 01:01 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by Mekanic View Post
Sounds like you have a plan for the fuel, and tires.
However:
Do NOT forget to flush the old brake fluid with new brake fluid.
And Coolant change/Flush with water only is in order.
Both of these fluids get nasty after sitting a few years.
I already bought new coolant and planned to change it out. You say to only flush with water, then replace it with coolant, right? To do that one, I'll need to get it running to get it near some running water. Thanks for the info on the brake fluid, didn't even think of that one. Brakes are something I do not know how to do, my dad always did the brakes.
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Old 09-06-2011, 07:46 AM   #30
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I already bought new coolant and planned to change it out. You say to only flush with water, then replace it with coolant, right? To do that one, I'll need to get it running to get it near some running water. Thanks for the info on the brake fluid, didn't even think of that one. Brakes are something I do not know how to do, my dad always did the brakes.

......................After , you've flushed your cooling system , you should add 50\50 antifreeze ! It is available at most stores . Should you need too add water , be sure and use Distilled water , which is sold at all wal mart stores . , jigger
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Old 09-06-2011, 02:39 PM   #31
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......................After , you've flushed your cooling system , you should add 50\50 antifreeze ! It is available at most stores . Should you need too add water , be sure and use Distilled water , which is sold at all wal mart stores . , jigger
That's what I meant by coolant, sorry, should have been more clear. I always add 50/50 antifreeze.
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Old 09-06-2011, 06:17 PM   #32
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All you really need to get rid of that old fuel is a good hand-driven fuel siphon pump and a container or containers large enough to store the waste fuel.

Once it's empty, the tank can be removed for repair or replacement. If the tank isn't badly rusted, it can be cleaned and then coated internally with a special kind of "paint" that protects the metal from rusting further, however, once a tank starts having major rust, its just better to have it completely replaced rather than use a compromised tank.
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Old 09-06-2011, 07:47 PM   #33
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All you really need to get rid of that old fuel is a good hand-driven fuel siphon pump and a container or containers large enough to store the waste fuel.

Once it's empty, the tank can be removed for repair or replacement. If the tank isn't badly rusted, it can be cleaned and then coated internally with a special kind of "paint" that protects the metal from rusting further, however, once a tank starts having major rust, its just better to have it completely replaced rather than use a compromised tank.
I'm taking out the old gas because it's sat there for a very long time, not that there is rust issues per say.
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Old 09-06-2011, 09:31 PM   #34
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Believe it or not but the reason you have to drain the gas is because all gas nowdays has at least 10% ethanol added. It's the ethanol that makes the gas go bad. If you noticed gas doesn't even smell like gas anymore. Look on the pump and it will tell you how much ethanol is added. I would say the easiest way to drain the tank is take the line off by the fuel pump mounted on the side of the motor and buy a cheap electric fuel pump and suck it out with that. You can buy a cheap one for around $40. The older motorhomes don't have fuel pumps in the tank they have mechanical ones mounted to the block on the lower side of the motor.
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Old 09-07-2011, 01:51 AM   #35
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Ask at auto parts stores that take used engine oil who picks this up from them. Also auto repair shops. Call them and explain that you have old gas and how much. They will probably take it from you for a fee.
These trucks have a schedule for picking up the old oil from the stores and shops so maybe you can arrange to meet the truck there.

Also be aware it is possible for old gas to corrode the metal gas cans. I had this happen overnight to a brand new can I put 8 year old gas in. Use plastic if you can.
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Old 09-07-2011, 03:52 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by svdreamer View Post
I'm taking out the old gas because it's sat there for a very long time, not that there is rust issues per say.
If you've got a steel tank that had Ethanol-ed gas in it, you've got rust.
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Old 09-07-2011, 07:01 PM   #37
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I have rebuilt many old cars and have always found that the replacement of about everything made of rubber is needed. Remove every drop of old fuel you can including the fuel in the carb. Once the carb is on the bench look carefully within and disassemble everything and soak in a carb cleaner and buy a rebuild kit and rebuild the carb or, if thats not your cup of tea, have it rebuilt at a QUALITY carb center. Then move onto all fuel and vapor hoses, power steering hoses, and finally all suspension rubber parts. Take the tank off and send it out to be cleaned and coated. Anything made of rubber including body bushings will need to be replaced. Use a good fuel filter if all new and I'm all for including a viewable filter like those shown in the manifold so you can see what's getting through. Make sure you rebuild the float, needle and seat in the carb. If it's an old brass float it may be ok but if its made of foam toss it.
Now onto fluids. Replace all fluids... brake, oil in tranny, rear end oil, coolant and finally look at wheel bearings and brakes. Suck out as much old fluid out of master cylinder refill and bleed all 4 wheels starting at he wheel furthest away from master cylinder and work your way through until you are at the closest wheel to master cylinder. If you see leakage from wheel cylinders or master dont bother with trying to rebuild,they are cheap. Replace all brake pads and and sand smooth or file the friction lobes on backing plates if drum brakes. If disk, check rotors for cracks and run out. Replace if needed. Replace all belts and coolant hoses. Remember if a hose bursts or you throw a belt you are stranded and the only thing between you and that long, cold, nap is brakes and tires.
Good luck Pam,
-Paul R. Haller-
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Old 09-07-2011, 09:08 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by Paul R. Haller View Post
I have rebuilt many old cars and have always found that the replacement of about everything made of rubber is needed. Remove every drop of old fuel you can including the fuel in the carb. Once the carb is on the bench look carefully within and disassemble everything and soak in a carb cleaner and buy a rebuild kit and rebuild the carb or, if thats not your cup of tea, have it rebuilt at a QUALITY carb center. Then move onto all fuel and vapor hoses, power steering hoses, and finally all suspension rubber parts. Take the tank off and send it out to be cleaned and coated. Anything made of rubber including body bushings will need to be replaced. Use a good fuel filter if all new and I'm all for including a viewable filter like those shown in the manifold so you can see what's getting through. Make sure you rebuild the float, needle and seat in the carb. If it's an old brass float it may be ok but if its made of foam toss it.
Now onto fluids. Replace all fluids... brake, oil in tranny, rear end oil, coolant and finally look at wheel bearings and brakes. Suck out as much old fluid out of master cylinder refill and bleed all 4 wheels starting at he wheel furthest away from master cylinder and work your way through until you are at the closest wheel to master cylinder. If you see leakage from wheel cylinders or master dont bother with trying to rebuild,they are cheap. Replace all brake pads and and sand smooth or file the friction lobes on backing plates if drum brakes. If disk, check rotors for cracks and run out. Replace if needed. Replace all belts and coolant hoses. Remember if a hose bursts or you throw a belt you are stranded and the only thing between you and that long, cold, nap is brakes and tires.
Good luck Pam,
-Paul R. Haller-
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Old 09-07-2011, 09:09 PM   #39
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If you've got a steel tank that had Ethanol-ed gas in it, you've got rust.
Did they have ethanol gas 9 years ago when the gas was last put in the RV?
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Old 09-07-2011, 09:10 PM   #40
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Ask at auto parts stores that take used engine oil who picks this up from them. Also auto repair shops. Call them and explain that you have old gas and how much. They will probably take it from you for a fee.
These trucks have a schedule for picking up the old oil from the stores and shops so maybe you can arrange to meet the truck there.

Also be aware it is possible for old gas to corrode the metal gas cans. I had this happen overnight to a brand new can I put 8 year old gas in. Use plastic if you can.
I have it in a plastic can. And I found out I could drop it off at the Hazardous Waste place.
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Old 09-08-2011, 02:41 AM   #41
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Did they have ethanol gas 9 years ago when the gas was last put in the RV?

Different states started it at different times but it all has at least 10% nowdays. You can bet if your state had E-85 then, they had some ethanol in all there gas back then. It's a nother goverment way of cleaning up the enviroment and messing up everything else.
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Old 09-08-2011, 02:45 AM   #42
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Different states started it at different times but it all has at least 10% nowdays. You can bet if your state had E-85 then, they had some ethanol in all there gas back then. It's a nother goverment way of cleaning up the enviroment and messing up everything else.
Just realized you are from California....that's the worst state for ethanol. I'd bet they had as much ethanol as they could in there.
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